Phnom Penh, capital of the Kingdom of Cambodia since 1866, is both a province and the provincial capital of the same name.
The sprawling, low-rise metropolis of roughly 2 million people is located at the chaktomuk, the confluence of the Mekong, Tonle Sap, and Basaac Rivers and features thriving riverside communities and pleasant waterfront promenades.
While Phnom Penh city is characterized by chaotic traffic and bustling marketplaces, the city is also rich with history; there are numerous Buddhist temples, some dating back hundreds of years, and the wide boulevards and public parks are remnants of the city’s French colonial period, one legacy of which is some beautiful architecture, including a railway station, post office, and grand hotels.
Other than Siem Reap (the nearest city to the Angkor Archaeological Park), Phnom Penh features the only international airport in Cambodia and is a common gateway for visitors to the kingdom. Beyond the city, the province is one of the smallest in Cambodia, but offers a few interesting day-trip attractions, including the former Cambodian capital city of Oudong to the north and a number of pre-Angkor temples in Takeo province to the south.
For visitors, Phnom Penh features historical attractions that showcase both the kingdom’s splendor as well as despair, including the Royal Palace, the National Museum, the Toul Sleng prison/genocide museum, and the notorious Choeung Ek Killing Fields.
A revival in Cambodian Arts and Culture are performed by organizations such as Souvanna Phum Theatre and the Royal Cambodian Ballet, while contemporary art is showcased at venues such as Meta House. Meanwhile, the local Cambodian community enjoys spending evenings and weekends at numerous public parks, where hundreds gather to picnic, play games, and participate in group aerobics!
It may lack the recognition of Bangkok or Singapore, but Phnom Penh has been growing by leaps and bounds and is quickly making a name for itself as both a tourist destination and a center for international investment.
Gateway to Cambodia, popular shopping destination, and thriving city replete with trendy bars, traditional and modern eateries, and numerous, active Buddhist temples, Phnom Penh has more than enough attractions and activities to keep visitors busy for a day or a week.
Orientation
Situated along the western bank of the Tonle Sap river in south-central Cambodia, Phnom Penh is a sprawling, mostly low-rise metropolis that is home to roughly two million people. As most visitors arrive in Cambodia via Phnom Penh International Airport, the city has a very functional, albeit seemingly chaotic tourist infrastructure.
Phnom Penh is situated at the confluence of the Mekong and Tonle Sap rivers, giving the city a natural divide into several key areas. The city is relatively compact, making it easy to explore on foot or by using local transportation.
Tuk-tuks, four-seat, covered carriages towed by motorbikes, are ubiquitous and can shuttle you easily from airport to hotel to sightseeing attractions to bus station, provided you can handle some good-natured price negotiation and assume things will take 50% longer to travel to than advertised.
While the city is expansive, orientation is straightforward as a result of French colonialism, during which time wide boulevards were built on a framework of odd-numbered streets running north to south and even-numbered streets running west to east. Major boulevards named after famous individuals, including Cambodian royalty, connect various districts of the city, nearly all of which feature major markets.
While there are hotels and attractions situated throughout the city, Phnom Penh Riverside, features the highest concentration of tourist oriented businesses: hotels, bars, restaurants, internet facilities, currency exchange offices, and major attractions, such as the Royal Palace and National Museum, are all within walking distance of each other.
As the excitement of cruising around on a tuk-tuk is offset by the headache of negotiating with tuk tuk drivers, the convenience of staying along the Tonle Sap Riverfront is a major benefit, particularly for those only staying a day or two in the city.
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Riverside (Sisowath Quay): The Riverside area is the heart of Phnom Penh’s tourist activity. Running parallel to the Tonle Sap River, this area is lined with restaurants, bars, hotels, and shops. It’s also home to key landmarks such as the Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda, and the National Museum of Cambodia.
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Central District (Phsar Thmei and Surroundings): The Central Market (Phsar Thmei) area is the commercial hub of the city. The iconic art deco Central Market is surrounded by busy streets filled with shops, banks, and businesses. This district also includes Sorya Shopping Center and many local markets.
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Wat Phnom Area: Named after the historic Wat Phnom temple, this area is slightly north of the central district and is a green, peaceful part of the city. Wat Phnom itself sits atop a small hill and is a popular spot for both locals and tourists.
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BKK1 (Boeung Keng Kang 1): This is Phnom Penh’s most cosmopolitan area, known for its upscale boutiques, cafes, restaurants, and expat community. BKK1 is a favorite for those seeking a mix of modern amenities and local flavor.
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Russian Market (Tuol Tom Poung): Located in the southern part of the city, this area is centered around the Russian Market, famous for its array of souvenirs, antiques, and textiles. The surrounding neighborhood has become a trendy spot with cafes, bars, and small boutiques.
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Toul Sleng and Olympic Stadium Area: This area is home to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21) and the Olympic Stadium. It’s a more residential and educational district, with several schools and universities nearby.
Where to Go
- National Library: A historic building in Phnom Penh offering a quiet retreat for readers and a collection of books showcasing Cambodian literature and history.
- Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum: also known as S-21, this evocative complex is filled with exhibits detailing the horrific events of the late 1970s. It’s easy to get emotional here so prepare yourself.
- National Museum of Cambodia: a comprehensive collection of artifacts from the pre-Angkor period through the 20th century, including a gallery of contemporary artwork.
- Choeung Ek Killing Fields: ten miles outside of town, this monument consists of shallow graves and human remains that testify to the brutality of the Khmer Rouge.
- Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda: east meets west in this royal compound with its hints of French colonial architecture and glittering pagodas.
- “Mekong Island”: this rural community on an island just outside Phnom Penh city is a great way to see traditional Cambodian culture on a short day trip.
- Wat Phnom: the city’s foremost temple is a must-see attraction boasting several stupas and 700 years of history.
- Independence Monument: An iconic symbol in Phnom Penh commemorating Cambodia’s independence from France, often illuminated at night.
- Wat Lanka: One of the oldest temples in Phnom Penh, offering a peaceful space for meditation and a glimpse into Buddhist traditions.
- Sarawan Pagoda: A small yet historic temple near the riverfront, known for its serene atmosphere and traditional Khmer architecture.
- Wat Ounalom: A significant religious site, housing the head of Cambodian Buddhism and a sacred relic of the Buddha’s eyebrow.
- Olympic Stadium: A multi-purpose stadium built in the 1960s, showcasing modernist architecture and a popular spot for local sports and activities.
- Russian Market: (Tuol Tom Poung) A bustling market famous for its wide range of souvenirs, clothing, and local crafts, offering a true Cambodian shopping experience.
- Vietnam-Cambodia Friendship Monument: built following the ousting of the Khmer Rouge by Vietnamese forces and now featuring colorfully lit fountains at night.
- Central Market: this tantalizing fusion of French colonial and traditional Khmer architecture is the city’s one-stop shopping venue.
- Orussey Market: A bustling local market offering a wide range of goods from fresh produce to household items, perfect for experiencing daily Cambodian life.
- Phnom Penh Night Market: A lively evening market featuring street food, local crafts, and live entertainment along the riverside.
- Olympic Market: A multi-story shopping hub popular for wholesale clothing, textiles, and fashion items at affordable prices.
- Chrouy Chang Va Island: A peaceful river island offering scenic views of the Mekong and Tonle Sap rivers, ideal for a quiet retreat from the city.
When to Go
Phnom Penh has a tropical climate that sees relatively constant temperatures throughout the year though humidity varies considerably.
There are noticeably cooler and hotter seasons as well as monsoon-driven rainy seasons. Depending on what you’re used to, the weather in Phnom Penh ranges from nearly intolerable to just very uncomfortable, or from very hot to pleasantly cool.
Despite the variation in humidity and rainfall, it is rarely anything other than hot in Phnom Penh. Daytime temperatures typically range through the year from about 86°F to above 100°F though monthly average temperatures can be a bit lower. The city enjoys plenty of sunshine, which can be harsh and hot, making sun burn a serious risk.
The wet season in Phnom Penh runs from May through October and peaks in the last two months of the season, when two days in every three can see heavy rains. At this time of the year, it can be impossible to move around and visits are best avoided.
When is the best time to visit Phnom Penh The rainy season is best avoided as travel can be difficult and services can be interrupted by heavy rains and wind. The dry season, which runs from November April, avoids the heavy rains, and the months of November through January, known as the cool season, enjoy some truly balmy weather, which makes visiting Phnom Penh pleasant as this is a city best enjoyed on foot.
In April, the last month of the dry season, Phnom Penh can feel parched. The streets become hot and dusty as temperatures peak at over 100°F and everything cries out for the impending monsoon rains. At times, it can feel like breathing gritty dust through a hot blow dryer.
- high season: November to January
- low season: April to September
- shoulder season: February, October
Seasons The weather in Phnom Penh is characterized by a split between the dry season and the wet season. Average temperatures vary only slightly throughout the year though the best part of the dry season can see very comfortable temperatures and humidity levels. Daytime peak temperatures toward the end of the dry season can be truly uncomfortable.
Dry season Offering the best times to see Phnom Penh, the dry season runs from November to April. Little or no rain falls at this time of the year and the temperatures between November and January, though usually not outright cold, can be very pleasant. At night, it can get too chilly to be comfortable in shorts and t-shirt, which typically offer the best outfit for Phnom Penh. April can be extremely hot and dry.
Wet season Running from May until September, the wet season sees monsoon winds push rain-laden storm clouds up from the Indian Ocean and the Gulf of Thailand. Between May and June, torrential downpours, heavy wind and flooding are almost daily events. In July and August, the rain often only comes late in the afternoon or at night time. Though it remains humid, Phnom Penh can still be quite attractive at this time of year.
Things to Do
Day Trips
Phnom Penh province is relatively small, incorporating mostly suburbs of the sprawling city. There are a few day trip attractions within the provincial borders, including [Mekong Island], where many village women and girls are engaged in traditional weaving, and Kien Svay, a popular local picnic area.
Along the banks of the Tonle Sap and Mekong Rivers leading away from the city there are a number of interesting villages, many of which are populated by ethnic Cham, descendants of Cambodia’s Angkor-era rival. These villages are best appreciated from a River Boat Cruises, though one village in the production of Kompong Luong Silversmith Village lies along the drive north to Oudong, which served as the Cambodian capital for some 250 post-Angkor years and features some interesting hilltop shrines to various royalty.
A day trip to Oudong mountain’s temples and shrines can be combined with a drive through expansive rice fields on a bypass road that leads to a dense collection of very diverse temples: Phnom Baset, while others are Phnom Reap!
Beyond town, in the provinces that neighbor Phnom Penh, there are a number of attractions that also make fine day-trips from the city. These attractions include temples from both the Angkor era and the pre-Angkor ‘kingdom’ of Funan and a few areas of considerable natural beauty: mountains, waterfalls, and wildlife.
South of Phnom Penh in Takeo Province, are the Angkor-era temples of Phnom Chissor, Prasat Neang Khmau, and Ta Phrom of Tonle Bati, all of which are south of the city, off National Road No. 2. Takeo is believed to have been the religious center of the pre-Angkor Funan civilization (1st-6th centuries), located near the town of Angkor Borei and the temples of Phnom Da.
Also just south of Phnom Penh on National Road No. 2 are the Phnom Tamao Wildlife Center and along National Road No. 4 to Kampong Speu province, Cambodia’s oldest National Park: Kirirom National Park.
The beaches of Kampot and Kep are a bit far for a day-trip unless you hire a private car and get a very early start. Each are about 2 − 2.5 hours south of Phnom Penh by car.
Getting There
Phnom Penh International Airport is a few miles outside of town and offers regular connections to Siem Reap (1 hour) and Bangkok (1 hour, 10 minutes), though the capital is accessible from most major Asian cities. Regional discount carriers like AirAsia and JetStar Asia serve numerous routes in and out of Phnom Penh. Siem Reap is 6 hours away by bus or car and the road is in good condition, as is the road to/from Ho Chi Minh City, which is serviced by daily busses connecting the two capital cities.
As the capital city, Phnom Penh is well-connected to the rest of Cambodia as well as the region and world. One can use Phnom Penh as a gateway via a number of different transportation types and destinations, including boat, plane, bus, or car from all points in Cambodia or from numerous Asian cities.
Phnom Penh has an international airport that is the point of entry for the majority of Cambodia’s visitors. However, a large number of backpackers and other travelers take an overland route to Phnom Penh, most frequently from nearby Ho Chi Minh City, which has both busses and boats linking the two urban centers.
By Air
Phnom Penh International Airport is Cambodia’s largest airport and is located just 11kms from the city center. The airport receives direct flights from Thailand, China, Malaysia, Korea, and a number of other regional countries.
There are plenty of taxis waiting at the public taxi stand outside the airport. The fare into the town costs US$9 and should be paid at the taxi desk inside the door before the terminal exit. Alternatively, motorbikes can be hired for US$2-5, while the tuk-tuk fee should be around US$7 (Tip: Its worth the extra $2 for an air-conditioned car, protecting you from 30-45 minutes of smog and dust).
By Bus
Most long distance buses are owned by different tour companies. Upon arrival in Phnom Penh, these buses will drop passengers at the company office, most of while are located around the Central Market or the northern end of Sisowath Quay.
Large numbers of travelers arrive in Phnom Penh from Siem Reap, which takes about five hours. Different busses cost different prices (all usually in the $10 range, but usually worth ‘splurging’ to get a bus not overcrowded with locals and budget travelers). Buses also arrive from Ho Chi Minh City (five to six hours), Sihanoukville (four hours), and Poipet, where the major border crossing with Thailand is located (eight hours).
By Train
Cambodia’s passenger train service no longer operates between Batdambang and Phnom Penh. The journey was a painfully slow 14 hours, but the novelty was apparently not enough to keep it open.
By Boat
Ferries arrive at Sisowath Quay each day from Siem Reap, a journey of four to eight hours (depending on water levels and direction of the Tonle Sap) and costs around US$20-30. These ferries can be rather crowded, although it is sometimes possible to sit on the roof.
Another option is the fast boat service, which also arrives at Sisowath Quay from Chau Doc in Vietnam daily at 13:00. This journey takes around five hours and is one of the best ways to travel through this part of the world as the scenery is simply stunning and the journey is unforgettable.
There are also some luxury-river-boats that ply the Tonle Sap and Mekong Rivers north and south of Phnom Penh, typically between Ho Chi Minh City and Siem Reap, with a stopover in Phnom Penh. It is possible to hop on or off in the capital, provided you book in advance.
Getting Around
Phnom Penh is a relatively small city, which means that getting around shouldn’t prove to be much of a challenge. Walking is a good option, provided you know where you’re going and understand that it gets very hot by mid-day. Although not many streets are clearly marked, they are arranged in a logical order and comprehensive maps of the city are easy to come by.
There is a wide range of local transport available, including bicycle-driven carriages (cyclos), motorbike-pulled carriages (tuk tuks), and motorbike taxis (motodops). These will constantly ask to take visitors wherever they want to go; drivers have a good knowledge of the most popular sites, hotels and shopping venues in the city, but are unscrupulous hagglers. Most one-way rides around the inner city should only cost $1. With a group, don’t pay more than $3 no matter how much they whine about the price of gas, just start looking for another tuk tuk and they will gladly take the 300% markup.
Traffic jams are common in Phnom Penh, especially during the morning and evening rush hours, worst so around Monivong and Norodom Boulevards, so visitors should allow plenty of time to get to their destination.
Taxis
While taxis are not very common in Phnom Penh, they are occasionally available at a few locations, such as outside major hotels, shopping malls, and expat haunts such as the Foreign Correspondents Club on Sisowath Quay.
Few taxis have meters (never mind what the Taxi Meter sign says) and the fare needs to be agreed upon with the driver before starting the journey. Visitors should try to get an idea of the rough price from hotel or guest house staff before approaching taxi drivers. Expect the quoted price to be high at first and don’t be afraid to negotiate. Fares tend to start at US$2-3 for short journeys and fluctuate according to the distance and fuel prices.
Tuk-tuks
This cheap and cheerful form of transport is popular with tourists. A tuk-tuk consists of a motorcycle with a cabin for the passengers hitched to the back. They are slightly cheaper than taxis and are particularly good for sightseeing, as there is plenty of space to see out. Many tuk-tuk drivers speak relatively good English and are quite knowledgeable about Phnom Penh and the surrounding area. It is possible to hire a tuk-tuk with a driver for several hours or even the entire day, the latter usually costing around US$15-25 depending on time and distance covered.
Bicycle taxis
Known as cyclo, these three-wheeled cycle-rickshaws are a slow, yet romantic way to get around the city, especially at sunset.
Few local people take these bicycle taxis as the fare for cyclo journeys tends to be double that of motodops or tuk tuks, although they are still rather popular with tourists. As the traffic in Phnom Penh can be quite chaotic, these are far from the safest way to travel. Cyclo are becoming gradually less common in Phnom Penh and are mainly used to transport goods, so ride them while you can.
Boats and Ferries
Despite its riverside location, traveling by boat or ferry ‘around’ Phnom Penh is uncommon. However, there are ferries available to take passengers to Chrouy Chang Va Island on the other side of the river, where there are clusters of cheap food stalls as well as a few small temples.
Ferry drivers tend to wait until the boat is crowded with passengers before departing from the river bank, and passengers may have to wait ten minutes or more before the ferry is ready to leave. The fare is very low, generally around 50 cents (2000 reil) , although prices fluctuate.
Bicycle
Bicycles can be hired at a number of guesthouses in Phnom Penh for as little as US$1 a day, making this a cheap, convenient and adventurous way to get around. However, visitors who aren’t used to the heat may prefer to stick to peddling in the early morning, late afternoon and evening.
Driving in the city can be rather frustrating at first, as the road rules can be rather difficult to get a grip on (e.g. When its ok to drive on the wrong side of the street and when you should or shouldn’t stop at a red light or stop sign) and the volume of traffic can be rather intense. Those who are used to cycling in big cities and other parts of Asia shouldn’t have too much trouble adapting, though they should be aware of legitimately deadly danger and wear appropriate protective gear.
Walking
Visitors can walk between most tourist attractions in less than 20 minutes, often passing through parks and along sprawling, tree-lined boulevards. However, crossing the road is a different matter: there are few designated crosswalks (which are meaningless), traffic rarely stops for pedestrians, and with motorbikes (and cars) often driving on the wrong side of the road, its not very difficult to get run over.
The best way to get across a busy road in one piece is to try to cross with a big group of pedestrians. Otherwise, a slow, steady walking pace will allow motorbikes to flow around you; if you suddenly stop or run, you are much more likely to get hit.
It is also worth noting that many sidewalks have large holes in them, so look before you step. This is particularly important at night, as there is insufficient street lighting.
Car and Motorcycle
Car hire is available through travel agencies, guesthouses and hotels throughout Phnom Penh. Prices vary greatly. 100cc-250cc motorcycles can be rented for US$5-9 a day, which is much cheaper than all the tuk tuk rides you may incur. Be aware that there are numerous scams involving rental motorbikes and you must give your passport as a hostage, ehrm deposit. Although many tourists rent 250cc dirt bikes, it is best to rent a 100cc bike for navigating the city traffic.
Tourists should be extremely careful to avoid accidents, as medical facilities in Phnom Penh are limited but accidents are common.
Where to Stay
Phnom Penh offers a wide range of quality accommodation ranging from cheap rooms with shared bathrooms and paper-thin walls to elegant hotel suites in world-class 5-star resorts. Phnom Penh is a city where travelers get what they pay for, although it is possible to find some great deals on decent riverside accommodation and small boutique hotels in renovated houses that exude colonial charm.
Although standards are extremely high in the upscale and boutique hotels, some budget places tend to have a laid-back attitude in regards to cleanliness and service, especially in backpacker areas where most guests only stay for a day or two.
There are a surprising number of four- and five-star hotels in Phnom Penh, so those who prefer to stay in comfort can be sure of getting a good night’s sleep. These finer hotels usually provide guests with buffet breakfasts as well, which is a great way to sample some Khmer cuisine.
Those who prefer to sleep with air conditioning and have a private bathroom with hot water would probably prefer to opt for mid-range accommodation, while those with a real taste for pampering and luxury will be right at home in Phnom Penh’s boutique and international 5-star hotels, where there is no limit to the extravagant touches that guests will be treated to.
For budget rooms, the former backpacker district near boeung-kak-lake has been basically abandoned, so the best options for budget accommodation are now rooms on the Golden Mile (street-278) and, nearer to the riverside and Royal Palace, along street-258. For those on a larger budget, there are a number of exquisite boutique hotels and a decent selection of 5-star properties ranging from the classic (Raffles) to the modern (Sofitel).
sisowath-quay running parallel to the Tonle Sap riverfront features the largest diversity of accommodation options. While rooms in this area tend to be mid-range, many featuring balconies offering spectacular views of the river, there are a handful of both budget and luxury properties along the riverfront, so visitors on nearly any budget can be in the middle of the action if they wish to be.
Budget accommodation can be found in Phnom Penh for as little as US$3 per night. These rooms are usually extremely small, with fans and shared bathroom but are reasonably comfortable. Mid-range air conditioned rooms start from US$15 and go up to US$90. These rooms feature a range of creature comforts such as cable television, fridges and private bathrooms with hot water. Top of the range accommodation starts at US$110 and features all the services and facilities travelers would find in four- and five-star hotels in Western countries.
Luxury Hotels
Phnom Penh’s luxury hotels are dispersed around the city, with several occupying prime riverfront property south of the Royal Palace and others located either in the french-quarter or further west of the city center. As some lie beyond walking distance to most of the city’s attractions, its best to note the location of your hotel and weigh the benefits of your hotel’s fine facilities with proximity to restaurants, bars, shops, and attractions.
Mid-Range Hotels
There are numerous mid-range hotels along norodom-boulevard, though this is one of the busiest roads in the city and features businesses catering more to a local clientele than restaurants, bars, and shops for visitors, which could be a disappointing inconvenience.
Budget Hotels
While most backpackers once congregated around the Boeung Kak Lake area, budget accommodation is now more dispersed throughout the city, with the best of these along streets-278 and 258; while there are other streets with numerous ‘budget’ hotels, they are cheap for a reason: horrifically unclean rooms and unfriendly staff in somewhat dodgy areas of town. Street 278 offers more restaurants, bars, and shops in the immediate vicinity, but Street 258 is closer to the riverside and attractions including the Royal Palace.
Many budget hotels and guesthouses have the ability to turn off the air-conditioning with a master-switch and thus offer rooms for variable prices depending on whether you are ok with just a fan or require air-conditioning. Some guest houses only offer fan rooms, some of which have hot water while others don’t (hot water is arguably unnecessary as its usually uncomfortably hot and the cold water is actually “warmish”). These cheap guest houses often have a communal rooms where guests can watch television together and restaurants/bars with seating areas for drinking and socializing.
Some budget guesthouses have western management and can answer inquiries as to whether the rooms are identical (fan/air-con) or not. If you don’t mind sharing a bathroom and showering with cold water, a budget room might be the thing for you, though quality varies greatly in the budget guesthouse category and price alone isn’t necessarily an fair representation of the relative quality of a room.
Where to Eat
Traditional Khmer food is ideal for those who like Asian food but can’t handle the heat that is generally associated with quite similar Thai cuisine. Generally speaking, food in Phnom Penh isn’t very spicy and is flavored with herbs such as lemon grass and coriander rather than liberal doses of chili. Rice is the staple diet and is served with a range of rich curries, soups and stews, many of which feature freshwater fish, the primary source of protein in the Cambodian diet.
Phnom Penh is a great place for food lovers as there is a good selection of dishes and treats on offer that can’t be found anywhere else in Cambodia. French cuisine is popular here as is Thai and Vietnamese food. Of course, as the nation’s capital city plenty of backpackers visit Phnom Penh, meaning that backpacker favorites such as french fries, banana pancakes, and burgers find their way onto many menus.
One local dish that is a safe best-bet crops up on menus all over the city: the creamy fish curry known as amok trey, or simply amok, is a filling curry dish typically made with fish, pork, or chicken, wrapped in banana leaves, and then steamed. If you fancy a treat, try caw, which is a dish of slightly sweet braised pork or chicken and egg stew flavored with caramelized palm sugar. For elegance and sophistication, it is hard to top Le Bistrot on Street 29, which serves French and Italian food in a stylish villa.
There are many different neighborhoods to find good food, so when deciding where to eat, one of the best areas is along Sisowath Quay and the riverfront, as this location offers a wide variety of restaurants from cheap food stalls to elegant bistros. street-240 and street-278, because of their proximity to large expatriate communities, also offer a large selection of restaurants in a compact area. A popular spot for backpacker food and late night dining is Street 51, in the ‘nightclub district,’ particularly opposite Heart of Darkness. In addition to hamburgers, falafel, and other western munchies, it is possible to find some pretty authentic Khmer food at some of the smaller restaurants along the street.
While local, Cambodian food is not as famous as Thai food, those with an adventurous palate or those on a strict budget will find local food to be cheap, tasty and easy to find. While there are restaurants serving tourist-friendly Cambodian food all along the riverfront, small food stalls are typically set up in groups in various neighborhoods, and particularly inside most markets, including the russian-market. A range of different dishes can be found at these stalls and small restaurants, including lou, a plate of short, thick noodles with added egg and chicken; fried spring rolls known as ban hoaw, which are covered with fish sauce; and bai cha, a tasty dish of fried rice with Chinese sausage.
While street food can be found all over the city, serving quick and cheap food for as little as US$1-2 and is usually freshly prepared and cooked while the diner waits, quality varies greatly and is generally not as amazing as the street food one can easily find in Thailand. One great place to find hawker food is on the far side of the river, on chrouy-chang-va-island; adventurous diners can take a cross-river ferry in the early evening to sit on mats and dine on a selection of dishes while watching the sun slowly set over the city.
Some excellent western food is available throughout Phnom Penh and diners can find everything from fine french cuisine and authentic pizza to fresh sushi and outstanding burgers. The easiest places to find Western food is along the riverfront, which features Cantina Mexican cuisine, along street-278, and in Phnom Penh’s major shopping malls, such as the Sovanna Shopping Mall.
Social enterprise restaurants are also quite popular, providing skills training to disadvantaged Cambodians and serving excellent cuisine: Friends, located near the National Museum, is a tapas restaurant that serves a range of more than 20 delicious dishes. The associated Romdeng on Street 174, serves foreigner-friendly Cambodian specialities, including tarantula, in a charming atmosphere.
While there are few strictly vegetarian restaurants in Phnom Penh, many restaurants offer a selection of meat-free dishes. The best bets are restaurants in the backpacker areas and Indian restaurants, the latter of which there are plenty of Indian restaurants to choose from. A great option is Shiva Shakti restaurant near the Independence Monument, which offers a good selection of vegetarian dishes. Two restaurants serving purely vegetarian and vegan food are the Fate-Blessing Buddha on Monireth Blvd, Street 217 and the vegan Chinese restaurant named Miao Xiang Xi at 699A Preah Monivong.
While food courts aren’t really popular in Phnom Penh, they can sometimes be found in large shopping malls. Most food courts offer shoppers and diners a selection of cheap, yet filling Khmer meals such as noodle soup with beef, chicken or pork.
There is also a large food court in Phnom Penh’s Pochentong International Airport, which provides visitors with a wide selection of Asian food and a few Western favorites such as sandwiches and hotdogs.
dinner-cruises are one of the most special dining venues for visitors in-the-know. The food is generally good quality and the sunset cruise is spectacular.
Where to Party
Phnom Penh is Cambodia’s capital city, so it should come as no surprise that there are plenty of places here to drink and dance the night away, from flashy dance clubs and sports bars to small neighborhood pubs and Khmer-style discos.
Indeed, one of the best things about Phnom Pehn’s nightlife is the excellent variety. After the sun sets it is possible to start the evening with happy hour or a meal in one of Phnom Penh’s riverside restaurants before moving on to a nearby bar for a few drinks. Revelers can then listen to a live band, watch an apsara dance, or even a theatrical play before dancing until dawn to DJs spinning in fashionable clubs.
Although bars and clubs are scattered throughout the city, Phnom Penh is geographically small and most places are just a 5- or 10-minute tuk-tuk ride away from each other. Phnom Penh’s bars and clubs also tend to group together in certain areas of the city such as along Sisowath Quay, Street 104, Street 178, and Street 51.
Perhaps the most popular local drink among locals is Golden Muscle Wine, which is thick, black and very strong. Mix with plenty of tonic water or cola and drink with caution. There are a variety of local beers, the most common of which are Angkor and Anchor (pronounced an-chor), though newcomer Kingdom Beer has made quite a push to become widely available as well. Imported beers, such as Beer Lao, Tiger, and Heineken are all widely available.
Nightlife areas
Most of Phnom Penh’s bars are located along the riverfront area, which stretches along Sisowath Quay and up the side streets which branch off of the main street. There are dozens of bars in this area, offering drinkers plenty of choices. There are a number of bars that are popular with both expats and visitors along the Golden Mile (Street 278) and there is also a collection of hostess bars clustered at the corner of Street 108 and Norodom Blvd, while late night drinking can be found on Street 51, between streets 154 and 178, where the famous Heart of Darkness club is located.
Pubs bars and clubs
Although Friday and Saturday nights are the most popular party days, bars and clubs tend to be popular all through the week, especially with tourists. Although most bars tend to close around midnight, plenty stay open until at least 03:00, and it is possible to keep drinking or dancing until the sun comes up. These late night clubs are located either along the northern end of the riverfront road (particularly Riverhouse and the ‘go-go’ bars on Street 136), and on Street 51, which features iconic Heart of Darkness and relatively new, but equally popular Pontoon and St. Tropez.
Live music
Most of Phnom Penh’s bands tend to play on Friday and Saturday evenings in the lively venues along the riverfront and the adjoining streets. Khmer and Filipino bands also play in the lobby bars of major hotels.
Good sources to track down Phnom Penh’s live bands include the listings on www.whatsoninCambodia.com, in AsiaLife magazine, in 7 Days magazine (a pullout in Fridays’ edition of the Phnom Penh Post), and in the back of the Cambodia Daily newspaper. Live rock can be found in the Memphis Pub every night of the week, while Paddy Rice, the Winking Frog, and Sharky Bar host popular live bands on most weekends.
The club scene has grown a bit in recent years and the three most popular: Heart of Darkness, Pontoon, and St. Tropez are all on different spokes of the intersection formed by Street 51 (Pasteur) and Street 172. Another popular dance venue is the Riverhouse Lounge on Sisowath Quay and Street 110.
Cultural and Arts
Those who love culture-and-performance-arts will have plenty of options in Phnom Penh. The Khmer Culture Group hosts regular classical dances and shadow puppet theater, while the Sovanna Phum Theater is dedicated to developing the professional arts.
A great place to watch cultural performances is at the Phnom Penh Cultural Center, which was built in the 1960s and shows a wide range of different types of shows. Performances are held regularly using state-of-the-art equipment in an air conditioned venue.
Where to Shop
There are markets, malls, shops, and stalls selling things simply everywhere in Phnom Penh. With many goods available for a fraction of the price of Western rates, this is a real paradise for those who love to shop until they drop.
Although Phnom Penh’s shopping opportunities are scattered far and wide across the city, certain areas are known for specializing in particular types of goods and there are a number of large markets that are the focal points of their respective neighborhoods. For example, there is a cluster of art-shops on Street 178, while the central-market is a good place to purchase silver, and around the russian-market is a good area to buy clothing.
Shopping in Phnom Penh is a vibrant, often rowdy and invigorating experience. Shoppers should be prepared to push and wriggle their way through crowded market places in search of a bargain, which can only be procured after some good natured negotiation over the price. There are usually plenty of places to eat in and around the marketplaces where weary shoppers can refuel before returning to the hustle and bustle of the shopping scene.
Most local markets open daily from the post-dawn hours when monks may stroll through collecting morning alms until the sunset hour, both of which are the coolest times to shop. Situated to the south of the city, the russian-market sells a weird and wonderful collection of goods. Located towards the north of the city is the central-market, which is housed in an iconic Art Deco building. Just around the corner, the old-market is a chaotic collection of stalls interspersed with eateries, massage parlors, and bars.
There are a couple of supermarkets in Phnom Penh that stock a wide range of food and are spacious, clean and convenient, making browsing generally hassle free. Lucky Supermarkets offer shoppers a selection of products from all around the world, while the Pencil Supermarket specialize in international fruit and vegetables as well as other ingredients.
There are only a few shopping malls in Phnom Penh. The Sorya Mall is the city’s main Western-style mall, offering a clean, air-conditioned environment in which to shop. It is located just to the south of the Central Market and there is a collection of cheap fast food outlets located within the mall. The recently built Sovanna Mall features a number of modern shops and is already proving to be very popular with shoppers. The newly built City Mall on Monireth Street, near the Olympic Stadium, has a movie theater showing Hollywood hits on its top floor, but the shopping here is extremely limited.
While clothing stalls and shops can be found at all of Phnom Pehn’s markets and malls, the russian-market is a good place to buy cheap designer clothing as a number of factories which supply clothing for brands such as Levis, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and many others sell their seconds here. This is also a good place to find fake Swiss watches (if you don’t mind breaking the law or wearing knock-off products). The central-market in particular is known for selling cheap souvenir t-shirts and other garments. Both the Russian Market and Central Market are good places to purchase another backpack or suitcase to carry your extra clothing home in.
Situated just to the north of the National Museum, Street 178 (artists-street) is a good place to look for works of art as a number of interesting art galleries are located there. One gallery which stands out from the rest is Stef’s Happy Painting, which displays brightly-colored paintings of Cambodian life. Just around the corner, Hidden Treasures stocks a collection of antiques, art from Cambodia and other parts of Southeast Asia.
Handicrafts are a popular purchase in Phnom Penh and there is a wide selection on offer. A great buy is the traditional krama, which is a checked scarf made of cotton or silk. Hand woven silk is made into a multitude of high quality items such as bags, tablecloths and bedspreads. Many silks and other handicrafts are made and sold by ventures supported by social enterprises in order to provide livelihoods for disadvantaged Cambodians. These boutique stores are often found around the riverside area north of the Royal Palace as well as along Street 240. NCDP Handicrafts and Wat Than Handicrafts are other organizations whose profits go towards helping underprivileged Cambodians.
A popular place to purchase loose gemstones is at the Central Market, where there is a large selection on offer, though its best to not make expensive purchases unless you are knowledgable about evaluating the quality of such stones. Phnom Penh is famous for its silversmiths and there is an excellent range of jewelry available in unique styles and patterns. Jewelry is also made from a range of other materials such as wood, ceramics and bronze and there are a number of stalls specializing in bangles, bracelets, earrings and necklaces at most malls and markets.
Best bets and tips
Although there isn’t really a sale season, great deals and discounts can be found in Phnom Penh throughout the year. Bargaining is common practice in the city’s markets, and a general rule of thumb is to make an offer between half and a third of the starting price and negotiate from there, keeping the mood light and friendly. Usually walking away will solicit a lower price, and if you keep walking at least you have a ballpark figure to use in your next negotiation.
Other tips:
- The Russian Market has the widest selection of goods, particularly things geared towards tourists. The Central Market also has a huge selection of goods, but much of it is for sale to local shoppers.
- Handmade goods, such as textiles, tend to be of high quality
- Electronic goods and DVDs are usually poor quality
- Most goods can be purchased in US dollars, meaning that there is no need to change a large stack of notes into Riel.
- It is best to avoid purchasing antiques in Phnom Penh as the dealers tend to be dishonest and it is all too easy to end up owning a fake or illegally purchased national treasure by mistake.
Need to Know
- Worth it? It isn’t the country’s leading attraction (Angkor Wat holds that distinction) but it has plenty to offer in the way of museums, monuments, and fine dining.
- What to do: visit the Genocide Museum, Killing Fields, National Museum, and Royal Palace; indulge on crème brulée; shop in the many lively markets; catch a sunset aboard a boat on the Tonlé Sap River; enroll in a cooking class.
- Best time to go: December and January are the coolest and most comfortable months to visit, though Phnom Penh is lively all year round.
- How long? Two or three days are adequate; including day-trips you could keep yourself busy for at least a week.
- Trivia: the remains of King Ponhea Yat, founder of this ancient city, are kept in a stupa at Wat Phnom.
The town is named after Lady Penh, who enshrined Buddha images found in the river atop the town’s lone hill (or Phnom) in 1372.