This cluster of hilltop and hillside temples at Phnom Baset is located about six miles (10 km) from Oudong (as the crow flies), a voyage of around 30 minutes along a unmarked dirt roads.

Phnom Baset features two small hills with temples atop each. The smaller hill features two temples: Neang Kong Seem, a modern temple of moderate interest, and Baksei Chaim Krong, which features a stupa that was supposedly built out of ancient ruins.

The taller hill features Wat Trai Trang, a contemporary Buddhist temple, at its summit, which is accessible along a steep, paved road that has naga sculptures on either side of it. Near the bottom of the hill is perhaps the most intriguing temple: Prasat Neang Krub Leakh (Temple of the Ideal/Sheltered Girl). The temple, which appears pre-Angkorian in design, perhaps from the era of Chenla or Funan, is located in a shady grotto and its ruinous condition simply adds to the allure.

Peering into the collapsed shrine of Prasat Neang Krub Leakh’s main tower, you shouldn’t have trouble believing the tale associated with the temple. According to locals, there is a secret, “magic” tunnel leading from the temple to nearby Phnom Oudong that was once used by the kings of Oudong. The temple features small statues of women and numerous candles, all of which are devoted to virgin spirits and was also referred to as ‘the naga spirit temple’ or Prasat Rung Roong, the mother and father of Neang Krub Leakh.

Phnom Baset is located near about six-ten miles (10-19 km) down Route 130 which leads east off Route 5 about half way between Phnom Penh and Oudong; a 30-minute side-trip along bumpy dirt roads. You are unlikely to find it unless your driver knows where it is located and is willing to take you down the road in his car.

  • What is It?: A pair of hills with contemporary temples at the top of each and an Angkor-era temple ruin near the base of one.
  • When to Go: Any time, though the road conditions are better in the dry season months: November - April.
  • Nearest Town: Near Oudong (6-10 miles), in daytrip distance of the Cambodian capital of Phnom Penh
  • Don’t Miss: The ancient temple hidden in the forest
  • Opening hours: Daylight hours
  • Entrance fees: None