Rediscovered in 1984, the ruined royal city of Wiang Kum Kam was buried for hundreds of years in legends and solidified mud from massive flooding caused by a change in the Ping River’s course.
The ancient city’s original site near Lamphun was reputedly chosen in the mid-13th century by the first Lanna King, Mengrai, to be his capital. Grand buildings, and many temples were erected, and Mengrai ruled his kingdom from the splendour of his new city until disaster struck 15 years after its founding.
The sudden shift in the Ping River’s course caused the royal court to leave and resulted in the founding of Chiang Mai. Wiang Kum Kam continued to flood regularly and was later abandoned, lost in the silt and mud brought in by the river waters.
Votive tablets discovered by villagers almost 700 years after the city’s founding resulted in a full examination of the site followed by extensive and systematic archaeological excavations resulting in the rediscovery of the legendary lost city. Now a popular tourist destination, Wiang Kum Kam is estimated by aerial surveys to have been 600 meters wide by 850 meters long, with its community spreading for over three kilometers.
A number of temples were documented, with Wat Chedi Liem and its spectacular Haripunchai-style chedi the best preserved as they were unaffected by the floods. The chedi of Wat E-Khang towers over the ruins of more than 40 structures, and Wat Pu Pia’s main chedi displays remnants of the original stucco which protected its brickwork.
A visit to Wiang Kum Kam is an atmospheric journey into the very beginnings of the Lanna Kingdom, and the horse-drawn carriages on hand to take visitors around the site (200B) add to the experience. It’s also a good destination for a bike ride, as it’s just a few kilometers south of Chiang Mai.
Getting There
Take a tuk-tuk or songthaew from the city center. With your own transport, head south on the Chiang Mai-Lamphun Road until you cross the Superhighway, then look for signs directing you right to the ancient city.
Need to Know
- What is it? The ruins of a 13th century city.
- Opening hours: 08:00-18:00.
- Entrance fee: no charge unless you join a guided tour.
- Address: Between the Superhighway and first ring road, just east of the Ping River.
- Where: About 3km south of Chiang Mai city center.