Wat Phra That Doi Suthep

Since the place is always crowded, much of the interest for foreign visitors is in watching Thais taking time out and making merit. On a clear day, there are spectacular views down over Chiang Mai city and valley; the temple sits just over 1,000 meters above sea level.

According to legend, an elephant carrying a relic lay down to rest at this site in the late 14th century, and it was decided to build a temple here to house the relic. The temple remained completely isolated until a road was built up the mountain in 1934 by the much revered Khru Ba Sivichai, a monk to whom there is a shrine at the foot of the mountain.

Visitors must either climb over 300 stairs to reach the temple, or take a funicular railway for 20B. Before entering the upper terrace, it’s worth taking a stroll round the lower terrace, from where (if you’re lucky) there are great views down over Chiang Mai. There are also some huge bells on this terrace that Thais ring for luck.

Don’t be surprised if you get a sense of deja vu as you enter the upper terrace, as the gleaming stupa here is one of Chiang Mai’s best-known icons, and you are sure to have seen images of it before.

Thais like to make merit by lighting incense and candles, then walking mindfully three times in a clockwise direction round the stupa, and a surprising number of foreigners join in this activity. The temple is a particularly atmospheric place to witness the Buddhist puja festivals, which usually take place in February, May and July.

It’s almost impossible to avoid crowds here as the place is packed all day, but if you arrive very early in the morning or late in the afternoon, you might manage to give the tour buses the slip.