Wat Phnom Sampeau

Phnom Sampeu and surrounding hills feature in this legend, and visitors can explore numerous Buddhist temples built over the past century, both upon and surrounding the hill, as well as caves and remnants of Cambodia’s civil war.

During the time of the Khmer Rouge, certain pagoda buildings on Wat Phnom Sampeu and the caves beneath it were used for torture and execution. Once the site of theater performances by local inhabitants, these “killing caves” are on the side of the hilltop half-way to the summit.

A now unadorned Buddhist pagoda beside the caves was used by the Khmer Rouge to interrogate thousands, who were subsequently killed or thrown into the pits leading to the caves while still clinging to life. There are stairs leading into the caves where a small shrine houses some victims bones.

Farther up the hill there is a pair of anti-aircraft guns leftover from the war and a funerary spire dedicated to the wife of Marshall Lon Nol (1913-1985). Toward the summit is a temple honoring legendary Rumsay Sok and at the very top a Buddhist prasat where one can see in every direction for miles.

Visitors who wish to visit Wat Phnom Sampeu must climb more than 700 steps to reach the top of the mountain, which can be rather challenging in the full heat of the day. However, the stunning view from the top is more than worth the effort involved. Those in the know may prefer to follow the trail that winds up the mountainside instead, as it is a little easier on the legs although still rather steep.