Located some 10 miles (15kms) to the northwest of Batdambang city, Wat Ek Phnom is one of the province’s most visited temple complexes.
The grounds include both a modern Buddhist temple and an Angkor-era Hindu temple, as well as a number of ponds and a large seated Buddha. The complex is popular with locals who enjoy picnicking on the temple grounds on weekends and holidays, especially Khmer New Year (April 14-16), when there are bands, games, and lots of food stalls.
The newer Buddhist Wat, which was constructed in 1999, was built to replace a temple that replaced a temple before that and so on, supposedly dating back 700 years. The laterite and sandstone Hindu temple that sits behind the Buddhist temple dates to the 11th century, possibly 1027, during the reign of Suryavarman I (R.1011-1049). While most of the Angkor-era temple is in ruins there remain some intact inscriptions on one of the doorways and some preserved lintel carvings including the Churning of the Sea of Milk.
While the older temple is largely in ruins, visitors will still be able to get an idea of the temple’s former glory, though those who have been to Angkor already will be less impressed. Nonetheless, the temple grounds are very atmospheric, featuring several lotus ponds, streams, rivers and tall trees, and the drive out to the temple along a narrow, winding, but sealed road is a charming peek at rural cambodian living.
To enter the older temple, visitors must climb through one of the windows or one of a number of crumbling doorways, which adds to the sense of adventure. Visiting Wat Ek Phnom is like stepping back into the past as the nearby villages and landscape have changed little over the years.
When to Go
Anytime, though weekends and holidays are the most festive times to visit and near sunset is the best for photos.
Getting There
The enjoyable ride to Wat Ek Phnom, can be made by either by car, tuk tuk or motodop taxi hired at the tourist-information-center or at your hotel. It is even easy and enjoyable to find on ones own with a rental motorbike or bicycle, as the nearly perfectly sealed river road skirts the Sangker River, winding through tropical forest and charming roadside villages that flank both sides of the road.
Simply follow the west side of the river north, staying on sealed roads and keeping your eyes peeled for the one sign that indicates you are approaching the temple. One you see a large modern Buddhist temple after crossing a small bridge, you have arrived.
Need to Know
- What is It?: A temple complex that includes both a active, modern Buddhist Wat and a collapsing stone 11th century Hindu temple.
- Nearest Town: Prasat Ek Phnom is 10 miles northwest of Battambang, which can be reached by bus from Phnom Penh in 4-5 hours, from Siem Reap (bus: 3 hours or boat: 7-10 hours), or from the Poipet and the Thai border (2 hours).
- Don’t Miss: Festive Khmer New Year’s celebrations held at the temple. (April 14-16)
- Trivia: Time and war have taken their toll on the temple: damage is attributable both Siamese invaders and the Khmer Rouge. Although a Hindu temple thought to honor of Shiva, it is oddly oriented westward, whereas most Shiva temples were oriented Eastward.
- Opening hours: Daylight hours
- Entrance fees: $2