Recently the two attractions of Fish Cave (Tham Pla) and the Pha Sua Waterfall were absorbed into a single national park that covers nearly 500 square kilometers of mountainous terrain. They are usually visited on a day trip from Mae Hong Son.
Tham Pla, a sacred cavern with a river running through it that is home to hundreds of huge carp fish, is visited regularly as it is right next to the main road (Highway 1095). The cave is special because the locals do not catch the soro brook carp, which are considered sacred. Since they don’t get caught and eaten for dinner, some of them live long enough to grow up to three feet long. They certainly eat well as just about every visitor throws them a bag of food.
The locals believe the fish are vegetarians, and there are vendors selling little bags of fruit and vegetables at the entrance of the park to feed to the fish. A path leads to a suspension bridge that crosses the river and heads to the cave. The fish can be observed through a six square foot hole in the rock. The only downside is you can’t enter the cave and explore it.
Interestingly, a statue of the Hindu deity Nara stands at the entrance of the cave. Nara is said to protect the holy fish from danger. There’s not much else to see at this part of the park, but the grounds are very pastoral and relaxing. There are picnic areas and vendors selling local snacks.
To get to Pha Sua Waterfall, you need to turn off the main road and head for Mae Aw—the journey takes about 30 minutes. There are six levels to the falls, though most people just view it from the bottom level. It’s only about 10 meters high, but in the rainy season covers a wide area to give the appearance of a curtain.
Getting There
Tham Pla Nam Tok Pha Sua National Park is located 17kms northeast of Mae Hong Son off of highway 1095. The easiest way to reach the park is to rent a car or scooter in Mae Hong Son and drive yourself, or join a day tour.
Buses heading to Pai pass by the entrance to the park’s road if you want to really rough it. There are airports in both Mae Hong Son and Pai with flights to and from Bangkok and Chiang Mai respectively.
Need to Know
- What is it? A national park featuring a sacred cave with a fish-filled river running through it, and an attractive waterfall.
- When to go? Between November and February conditions are at their driest in the mountains around Tham Pla, while the waterfall carries most water in October/November.
- Nearest town: Mae Hong Son is about 30 minutes away.
- Not to miss: the sight of a three-foot long carp that may be older than you, and a photogenic waterfall.
- Opening hours: 06:00-18:00
- Entrance fee: Adults 100B, children 50B