Takeo is a culturally rich, but financially poor provincial town in southern Cambodia, just south of the nation’s capital, Phnom Penh.
Often referred to as the ‘forgotten capital of Cambodia’, Takeo was once a thriving town near the center of the earliest Cambodian kingdoms; today it is a sleepy backwater with an air of calm and tranquility.
Takeo was home to the earliest kingdoms in Cambodia, dating back to the Funan and Water Chenla dynasties (5th - 8th centuries), and while less impressive then the temples of Angkor, a few remaining ruins are still quite impressive, including Phnom Chissor, Prasat Neang Khmau, and the temples of Tonle Bati.
The main attraction for visitors to Takeo town is the boat ride to the village of Angkor Borei; the two towns are connected to each other and the Mekong delta region, which extends into Vietnam, by a network of ancient and modern canals. As boats to Angkor Borei and the temples of Phnom Da depart from Takeo, most tourists visit Takeo as a launching point for these isolated attractions, though the town itself is charming enough for a visit in its own right.
Exploring the town is best done on foot or by bicycle and because of its size, exploration will only take a couple of hours. There are some pleasant restaurants and bars offering warm beer and cheap local dishes, and the waterfront promenade along the town’s lake is a pleasant place to enjoy the cooler sunset hours.
Orientation
Takeo is a small, provincial capital with little in the way of tourist infrastructure; National Road No.2 zig-zags into and out of town, passing through the center of Takeo at the Independence Monument. While the bus/taxi station is located just south of the traffic circle occupied by the monument, most of the town lies north of here, between the monument and a large lake that forms the northern edge of town.
While there is a pleasant waterfront promenade along the lakefront, many of the restaurants and guesthouses, the tourist information center, and the pier for boats to Angkor Borei are located in the northeastern part of town, between the lake and the canal that leads to Angkor Borei. It is also in this northeast corner of town that the town market, Psar Nat, is located.
When to Go
Takeo shares its tropical climate with the rest of Cambodia; a ‘dry season’ that lasts from November to May and a ‘rainy season’ that runs from June to October. Temperatures are relatively constant (i.e. hot) throughout the year but humidity can vary. There are times of the year that are noticeably cooler or hotter, and as is normal for a monsoon climate, times when heavy rain is nearly constant. Takeo is fine to visit during most of the year, though the hottest months from March to May can be too hot for comfort.
Things to Do
Takeo is rich in cultural history, having served as the center of the pre-Angkorian ‘kingdoms’ of Funan and Water-Chenla. Even after the rise of Angkor as the new center of Cambodian civilization, kings of Cambodia continued to build temples in the area, occasionally constructing them upon older religious sites. Consequently, there are temples in Takeo that date from the 5th through the 13th centuries.
The town of Angkor Borei seems to have served as the religious center of the earliest Cambodian kingdom of Funan, though how unified the kingdom was is entirely speculative. While the hills of Phnom Da feature only somewhat impressive Angkor and pre-Angkor ruins, the beautiful statuary discovered at these sites is now housed at the small, but impressive Angkor Borei Museum. Both Angkor Borei and Phnom Da must be visited by boat from Takeo, but there are other sights that can be accessed by car.
Closer to Phnom Penh, along National Road No. 2 from Phnom Penh, there are the temples of Prasat Neang Khmau and Phnom Chissor, the latter of which features spectacular hilltop views. Along National Road No. 3, leading to coastal Cambodia, visitors may wish to stop at the Phnom Tamao Wildlife Sanctuary, a “zoo” that takes care of animals that had been privately owned and/or abused.
In Takeo town there is a pleasant waterfront promenade that runs the length of town along the lakeside, and a Provincial Museum that opened in 2008 and was built in the style of a Khmer temple. It hosts cultural and archaeological exhibits from the local areas. Also worth visiting are Psar Nat, a local market which boasts interesting French-era architecture, and the Ta Mok’s house [(dont confuse this link with Ta Mok’s house in Oddar Meanchey!).]
Getting There
Takeo is famous for its port area but most boats arriving from nearby Vietnam will take you to Angkor Borei. The National Highway 2 runs close to the town and makes for a great entrance and exit route. Buses from Phnom Penh, where the nearest international airport resides, take 2 to 3 hours.
Most people travel to Takeo from Phnom Penh 87 km by bus or private taxi. Busses depart from various locations in Phnom Penh depending on which bus company you buy your ticket with and some busses will simply drop passengers off in Takeo on their way to destinations farther south.
Private and share taxis can be procured at Phnom Penh’s Central Market, which is also a major bus depot. Travel time by bus is approximately 2 hours; travel by car slightly faster.
Getting Around
Takeo town is somewhat centralized, with restaurants, shops, and hotels spread along the roads leading in and out of the center of town. While it is possible to walk from your hotel to a nearby restaurant, this is less advisable at night as there are no lights along the side of the road that you will be walking along.
There are some freelance motodop taxi drivers here and there that will take you from A to B around town, but they aren’t as prevalent as in major tourist towns and most residents have bicycles or motobikes of their own.
Getting to attractions outside of town will require your own round-trip transportation, which could probably be arranged from your hotel or guesthouse, though the rate will be dependent upon your ability to negotiate.
Where to Stay
Although there are a number of interesting attractions around Takeo, there isn’t a large selection of hotels or guesthouses as most day trip here from Phnom Penh rather than stay the night. That said, there are pretty standard rooms available with air conditioning and hot water (or not), some with nice views of the lake.
Guesthouses and hotels are scattered about town, but as the town isn’t particularly large, it is possible to walk around and check out the various options before checking in.
Where to Eat
There is a fair selection of restaurants in Takeo town, including a number of street stalls selling inexpensive local dishes near the Independence Monument in the center of town. Otherwise, along the lakefront and in the northeast of town, near the boat-launch to Angkor Borei, are your best bets. Don’t expect much more than Cambodian food, but at least there is a decent selection.
Where to Party
There is almost no nightlife to speak of in Takeo, certainly not any catering to foreign tourists. There are a few local-style beer bars in town, which are basically open-air establishments that have attractive waitresses to serve beers and/or whiskey. Your best bet is to hang out along the waterfront and enjoy the cooler sunset hours and then head out of town or turn in early.
Where to Shop
There are very limited shopping options in Takeo. The town has a central market that is typical of most cambodian markets, selling nearly everything local’s need for their day to day lives, including ingredients for cooking and household supplies.
Need to Know
- What to do: visit nearby wildlife sanctuary, the pre-Angkorian temples at Angkor Borei, or the Angkor-era temples to the north of Takeo City. In town, examine the charming architecture of Psar Nat, wander around the French style buildings, go cycling, or step back in time at the large house in the north of the town that was built for Ta Mok.
- Best time to go: December and January are the coolest months and March to May is hottest and driest time of year.
- How long?: A day trip from Phnom Penh is enough to see the major sites, one or two days is long enough in Takeo to visit all the temples and take a walk around the town before a chilled out night in a quiet bar or restaurant.