Soppong, often referred to as Pang Mapha (which is in fact the name of the local district), is a small but thriving little market town halfway between Pai and Mae Hong Son.
The caving and trekking among the surrounding limestone hills is superb and there are some reasonable accommodation options here.
The highlights of a visit to Soppong are the colorful ethnic hill tribes and the extensive limestone cave systems that dot the entire area. You can walk to many villages and caves right from Soppong and your resort, removing the need to arrange transportation. All resorts and guest houses can arrange a guide if you need one. Several Shan, Karen, Lahu and Lisu hill tribe villages are within walking distance of town. Most of them are used to visitors and happily welcome them.
Another special highlight near Soppong is Lod Cave, one of the biggest caves in Thailand, that you can enter and exit by different routes on a bamboo raft, or even a kayak. The region around Soppong is thought to contain the highest concentration of limestone caves in the world.
Soppong consists of a single street, Highway 1095, and its inhabitants number only a few hundred. It only takes a couple of minutes here to realize that there’s nothing of interest in the town itself, so what’s all the fuss about?
In a word, the answer is caving. Soppong sits among some incredibly huge limestone caves, many of which have chambers as big as cathedrals, so for anyone who enjoys exploring caves, the place is a kind of Mecca.
It’s also a pretty cool place to go trekking—far from the scene in Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai or Pai, where it’s difficult to decide between the hundreds of trekking agents. In Soppong, you just choose a place to stay and they’ll fix you up with a route and a guide.
Lots of people visit Soppong on a day trip from Pai, as the journey is less than a couple of hours, but there are some perfectly acceptable resorts and guest houses here if you want to stay over. Just don’t expect any shopping or even much in the way of dining or nightlife.
Where to Go
- Tham Lod Cave: This amazing cave once contained ancient wooden coffins and there’s a ‘swift show’ at sunset every evening as the birds return home to roost.
When to Go
Like Pai, Soppong’s popularity depends largely on the season. It can get quite busy during the cool season (Nov-Feb), as this is when conditions are ideal for trekking and caving. At this time of year, night-time temperatures can drop pretty low, so you’ll need some warm clothing. For the rest of the year, it’s either too hot or too wet for trekking, though you can still explore caves, and the town is very quiet.
Things to Do
There’s really nothing to do in Soppong itself apart from eat and sleep, and perhaps walk around the local market if you haven’t already done so in other Thai towns.
On arrival, if you’re planning to trek, then talk with your resort/guesthouse owners to plan a trip to nearby hilltribe villages. If you’re more interested in caving, head straight for Cave Lodge, located about 9km from town near the entrance to Lod Cave, where you can find out about all the options for exploring the cave’s depths, either on a bamboo raft or kayak.
Hilltribe Villages
The main reasons to consider trekking around Soppong are firstly for the spectacular landscapes, and secondly for the fact that villages around here are less frequented than those around Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Pai and other trekking centers, so you are likely to experience a more authentic encounter with the resident hilltribes.
All resorts and guesthouses in town can arrange treks of any length between a day and a week. They will hook you up with a guide and help to plan your itinerary, which generally involves several hours walking each day along steep tracks, and spending the night in one of the local Lahu, Lisu, Shan or Karen villages.
Our recommendation is to arrange your trek through Cave Lodge (www.cavelodge.com. Tel: 053617203), which is located near Tham Lod about 8km from Soppong. The owner/manager, Australian John Spies, has lived for over 30 years in the area and can devise a trek that matches your interests and abilities, with rates starting at about 600B per day per person.
Getting There
Soppong is a couple hours northwest of Pai and about the same distance northeast of of Mae Hong Son. Although both towns receive weekly flights, the easiest way to get to this remote town is by renting your own vehicle and driving from Chiang Mai, a 4-hour journey. Public buses also make the same journey, but they are much slower and bumpier. Chiang Mai is where you will find the nearest international airport.
Buses and minivans from both Pai and Mae Hong Son pull up in front of the market in Soppong, taking about 2 hours from either place. Be prepared to be swung round non-stop switchbacks from either place as this is some of the most rugged terrain in the entire country. The nearest airports are at Pai and Mae Hong Son.
It’s much more enjoyable to experience this part of Thailand by renting a car or motorbike, so you can stop off anywhere you like. If you have time, rent a vehicle in Chiang Mai and spend a week exploring the Mae Hong Son loop (continuing from Mae Hong Son to Mae Sariang, then returning to Chiang Mai via Chom Thong).
Getting Around
If you’re here for the trekking, your guide will probably plan a route beginning at your resort/guesthouse, so no transport is necessary.
To get out to Lod Cave and Cave Lodge, the best base for a cave visit, take a motorbike taxi or an occasional songthaew to Lod village, about 9km from Soppong.
Where to Stay
As a tiny town (more a village really), Soppong has only a few accommodation options, all of which cater for travelers eager to explore the nearby caves or hilltribe villages. For this reason all resorts and guest houses also offer to arrange trekking tours or cave visits for their guests.
All places are located along the main road either in the center of town or on the outskirts, apart from the best place of all—Cave Lodge, which is located 8km from Soppong near the entrance to Tham Lod.
Due to the seasonal nature of trekking and caving in the area, some of these places close down for a month or town between July and September, so contact them before arrival to check.
Where to Eat
Don’t come to Soppong expecting gastronomic delights, as there are no restaurants that cater for foreigners apart from those in the resorts and guesthouses. Nevertheless, you won’t go hungry and as all over Thailand, you’ll occasionally be surprised at what fantastic food you can get for as little as a dollar.
While it’s difficult to pick between the restaurants in the town’s resorts and guesthouses, as all are adequate but none are outstanding, we’re picking out Lemon Hill Terrace for its combination of tasty and attractively presented food and its idyllic location overlooking the Lang River.
Where to Party
Put briefly, there’s virtually no nightlife in Soppong, so if it’s important to you, base yourself in Pai. Most locals are all tucked up in bed by 9pm, and most foreign visitors are also exhausted after a long day’s trek or cave visit, so they’re ready to sleep early too.
However, there is just one bar that caters for both locals and travelers, which can get quite busy in high season.
Where to Shop
The only kind of shopping available in Soppong is fresh food at the market and household goods in local shops, so you’ll have to do your souvenir shopping elsewhere.
Need to Know
- Worth it? If you are into caves, don’t miss the chance to explore some of those around Soppong.
- What to do: walk from your resort to a hill tribe village and explore the dozens of caves in the area.
- Best time to go: due to the dirt roads and trails, the dry winter season from November to February is best.
- How long? A few days will let you casually enjoy the many sights around Soppong.