Although the thought of the Golden Triangle makes most people imagine illicit drug laboratories deep in the jungle, guarded by sentries with automatic rifles, the reality is rather different.
For the purposes of tourism, the term now refers to the point where the borders of Thailand, Burma and Laos meet beside the Mekong River, which is very convenient for souvenir vendors, who lie in wait at Sop Ruak for tourist buses to arrive and disgorge their passengers.
This place is more interesting as a study into mass tourism than anything else, as it’s certainly one of Thailand’s most blatant tourist traps. The view of the three countries and two rivers where they meet is attractive, but hardly worth traveling the length of the country to see. Once you’ve taken a few photos, the Golden Triangle experience is all about fending off persistent vendors who want to sell you all kinds of tacky souvenirs at outrageous prices.
The House of Opium is worth visiting to find out more about opium, the drug on which the Golden Triangle’s reputation hinges, though the more recently built Hall of Opium, about a kilometer to the west, offers a more sophisticated (and more expensive) experience. The steep lane beside the House of Opium leads up to Wat Phu Khao, from where you can get the best views of the three countries from an elevated position.
The broad promenade beside the Mekong River is constantly being developed in a vain attempt to give the place character, and there are Buddha images, models of boats, and countless ‘Golden Triangle’ signs conveniently placed by the river for tourists to take souvenir photos.
Sop Ruak only exists to fulfill the needs of tourists visiting the Golden Triangle, so it’s a pretty soulless place. It consists of a single street that is part of Highway 1290, which connects Chiang Saen with Mae Sai. There’s an old temple on a hill from where you get the best views over the meeting of three countries (Thailand, Myanmar and Laos), a couple of museums explaining the opium trade, hundreds of souvenir stalls and a few exclusive resorts hidden in the hills.
Where to Go
- Hall of Opium: A state-of-the-art presentation on the process of opium production and its effects on users.
- House of Opium: A simpler and cheaper overview of the production and consumption of opium.
- Wat Phra That Phu Khao: A hilltop temple with the best views of the meeting point of three countries.
When to Go
The weather in Sop Ruak is cool and sometimes chilly during the cool season (from November to February), when you might be glad of a sweater at night. From March to May it’s generally hot, and from June to October is the rainy season, with periodic storms.
Things to Do
There’s really only one objective in mind for most visitors to Sop Ruak, and that is to take a photo of the meeting point of Thailand, Burma and Laos, maybe with themselves in the picture to show they’ve been there. The best views are from Wat Phra That Phu Khao, though there are plenty of ‘Golden Triangle’ signs along the riverside promenade, as well as a gleaming Buddha image seated on a colorful boat.
However, it’s also worth checking out either the House of Opium or the Hall of Opium to learn more about the drug on which the region’s reputation was built, and most tour buses allow time for that.
Of course, the souvenir vendors hope that once you’ve taken your pictures and looked around the opium museums, you’ll splash out a bunch of baht on a memento of your visit. However, most items on display are tacky in the extreme, and we’d advise you to save your money for elsewhere.
Another alternative is to take a boat ride down the Mekong River to the island of Don Sao, which belongs to Laos. You won’t get your passport stamped but at least you can say you’ve been there. Arrange this through boatmen on the riverbank.
Getting There
Most people arrive here on a tour bus. The easiest way to go it alone is to take a songthaew from Chiang Saen or Mae Sai after a bus ride to either place from Chiang Rai. The nearest airport is in Chiang Rai, about two hours away, and the overland journey from Bangkok takes about 13 hours. If you’re lucky enough to be staying at the Anantara Resort, you’ll be breezed in by helicopter from Chiang Rai airport.
Getting Around
You can walk everywhere in Sop Ruak, though the Hall of Opium is a kilometer or so to the west, so you might need to hop on a motorbike taxi or songthaew. If you stay in Chiang Saen, it’s a pleasant 10-kilometer bike ride beside the river to reach Sop Ruak.
Where to Stay
The great majority of visitors to Sop Ruak go there on a day trip from Chiang Rai, but there are a few hotels in town and a couple of the most luxurious resorts in all Thailand tucked away in the hills to the west of town.
Need to Know
- What is it? A cluster of souvenir vendors beside the Mekong River.
- Opening hours: 24 hours daily.
- Entrance fee: None
- Address: At the point where the borders of Thailand, Myanmar and Laos meet.
- Where: about 10km north of Chiang Saen along the Mekong River.
- How to get there: charter a songthaew or long-tail boat from Chiang Saen or join a tour from Chiang Rai (1 hour) or Chiang Mai (4 hours).