Situated on the Siem Reap River, close to Tonle Sap Lake in north-central Cambodia, Siem Reap is the center of tourism in Cambodia thanks to its proximity to the world-famous angkor-temples, including Angkor Wat, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Home to a population of 150,000 and growing, Siem Reap was once a quaint village that only received its current name after a post-Angkor-era defeat of neighboring Thailand in 1525 (Siem Reap literally means Defeat of Siam, which was the name of Thailand in those days). Today, Siem Reap has become the most-visited destination in Cambodia and offers five-star and boutique hotels with well landscaped lawns, and avenues of bars and restaurants that are more reminiscent of Bourbon Street than Cambodia. That said, numerous local businesses blend in harmoniously with the upscale development in the center of town, and rice fields and traditional wooden houses are the norm once you travel a few kilometers outside of town.
Angkor Archaeological Park is located around 10km north of Siem Reap and is easily visited either by bicycle, tuk-tuk (carriages pulled by motorbike), or car, all of which can be hired by the day. Tourists can purchase passes to Angkor for one day, three days (within a week), or seven days (within a month). Don’t even think about seeing everything in a day (or even a week!) as you’ll find yourself scrambling from temple to temple, rapidly clicking off photographs, and forgetting to enjoy yourself. Three days should give you enough time to explore the major temples at a somewhat leisurely pace, including perhaps a ride on an elephant through the ruins or in a hot-air balloon for an aerial perspective of Angkor Wat.
In the evening, there are numerous spas, including the ubiquitous “foot-fish” massage parlors, and dinner-theatre shows featuring folk and Apsara Performance. The aptly named Pub Street and the alleyways north and south of it offer a variety of drinking and dining options that are interspersed by art galleries and small boutique shops, and there are opportunities for shopping in various markets located in various areas of town.
Lodgings at all levels are spread across town, with all sights, including the Angkor temple complex, easily accessible by numerous transportation options. In fact, the town is small enough that everything can be visited on foot, though there are bicycles available for $1-2 at many hotels and guesthouses, and tuk tuks are waiting everywhere for a dollar fare across town. ATMS, convenience stores, and other Siem Reap Tourism are also distributed throughout town, though the highest concentration is in the Old Market Area.
As the town has such a developed tourist infrastructure it is easy to plan day trips to visit stilted and floating villages on the Tonle Sap Lake, or explore the countryside via microlight, motorbike, all-terrain-vehicle, or even upon horseback. Some of the top day trip options include the exquisite pink-sandstone temple of Banteay Srei, which is located near the “Kbal Spean” and an interesting animal preserve; longer day trips include voyages to more remote complexes, such as Koh Ker, Beng Mealea, and the remote Prasat Preah Vihear, which are respectively situated in spectacular countryside, jungle, and cliff-top settings. For those interested in birding in Siem Reap, Sam Veasna Center and Osmose offer outings both on the Tonle Sap and the provincial interior, both home to many exotic birds.
The international airport is located along the Airport Road (National Road 6), which features a number of attractions including the Cambodian Cultural Village, a Siem Reap War Museum, a |Les Chantiers Ecole Silk Farm, and some interesting social-enterprise crafts workshops. Within the town itself are a number of markets, including the lovely Siem Reap Night Market and the somewhat traditional Siem Reap Old Market.
Orientation
Once a quaint village, Siem Reap has become the most-visited tourist destination in Cambodia due to its proximity to the world-famous |Angkor Archaeological Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Much of the city now resembles a gentrified tourist town: well landscaped lawns, boutique hotels, and avenues of bars and restaurants that are more reminiscent of Bourbon Street than Cambodia. Despite the town’s rapid growth, the ambience is still amazingly laid-back and pleasant.
Set on the Siem Reap River, close to Tonle Sap Lake in the north-central area of Cambodia, Siem Reap is home to a total population of over 150,000+ residents in a main area of eight square kilometers. The city can be divided into five quarters: the traditional Old Market area east of the river, the colonial French Quarter farther up the river, Wat Bo area on the west bank of the Siem Reap River, Wat Damnak area at the southern end of Wat Bo Road, and Thapul Village west of the French Quarter.
Angkor Archaeological Park lies around 10kms north of town and the airport is located along the Airport Road, which runs west from the French Quarter and features a number of attractions between the two. Lodgings at all levels are spread across town, with all sights, including the temple complex, easily accessible by numerous transportation options. ATMS, convenience stores, and other tourist necessities are also distributed throughout town.
Internet: Wireless internet is available at most guesthouses/hotels, restaurants, and bars in Siem Reap, (particularly around Pub Street) and is typically free (24-hour wifi is available at Le Tigre Papier on Pub Street). There is an internet cafe at New Apsara Market on Wat Bo Road (near 2 Dragons Guesthouse), although there are many near Pub Street.
Convenience stores: Located throughout the city, particularly in the Old Market Area, where Siem Reap’s only U-Care pharmacy is located. The New Apsara Market on Wat Bo Road (near 2 Dragons Guesthouse) is one of the largest mini-marts in the city. Mom-and-pop shops can be found here and there on minor streets to serve local communities.
ATM’s: ATM machines are mostly found in the Old Market Area, around and north of Pub Street (towards Center Market). The New Apsara Market on Wat Bo Road (near 2 Dragons Guesthouse) also has an ATM machine.
Siem Reap is such a compact town that all the sights are within easy reach of nearly all hotels, with the exception of Angkor Archaeological Park and attractions on the Tonle Sap Lake.
Siem Reap has a large expat community scattered around town; when coming into town, expats mostly socialize in and around the Old Market area where there are a number of Western-owned pubs, bars and eateries, including a few haunts along the Lane and the Passage.
Where to Go
Of course the star of the show is Angkor located outside of Siem Reap:
- Angkor Archaeological Park: vast, tantalizing and every bit as magical as you imagined, the temples of Angkor, including Angkor Wat, are the cornerstone of Cambodia’s tourism industry. Spend as many days as you can spare here.
In Town you can find:
- APOPO Visitor Centre: A unique experience where visitors can learn about landmine detection rats that save lives, making it both educational and impactful.
- Artisans Angkor – Les Chantiers Écoles: A renowned handicraft center that showcases traditional Khmer arts and crafts, with an emphasis on quality and preservation of heritage.
- Pub Street: The nightlife hub of Siem Reap, offering a vibrant mix of bars, restaurants, and shops, popular among tourists.
- Siem Reap Night Market: The night market is the best place in Cambodia to do your souvenir shopping and features a bar, movie theatre, traditional music, and a number of spas.
- Angkor National Museum: A well-curated museum that provides in-depth insights into the history and culture of the Angkor temples, ideal for those wanting a deeper understanding.
- Angkor Silk Farm: A great place to learn about Cambodia’s silk production process, with guided tours that showcase the artistry behind it.
- Cambolac Art For The People: A social enterprise offering beautiful handicrafts made by locals with disabilities, providing both cultural value and social impact.
- Khmer Ceramics Center: An interactive center where visitors can learn about traditional Khmer pottery and even participate in workshops.
- Krousar Thmey: A meaningful visit to a non-profit organization that supports children with disabilities, combining social impact with cultural insights.
- Siem Reap Old Market Shop for souvenirs on one side, see where locals shop (and eat) on the other.
- Siem Reap War Museum: A somber, educational experience, offering a look into Cambodia’s military history, including its conflicts and landmine problems.
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Wat Thmei: Known for its Killing Fields memorial, this pagoda is historically significant and emotionally moving for visitors interested in Cambodia’s recent history.
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Beatocello: A unique experience where Dr. Beat Richner performed cello concerts to raise awareness for his pediatric hospital, though more of a niche attraction.
- Cambodia Cultural Village: A theme park-style attraction that presents Cambodia’s diverse culture and history, though it can feel somewhat commercialized.
- Preah Ang Chek Preah Ang Chorm Shrine: A popular shrine for locals with significant spiritual importance, though less impactful for foreign tourists.
- Royal Independence Gardens: A peaceful green space in the heart of Siem Reap, popular for evening strolls and home to several important shrines.
- Senteurs d’Angkor Botanic Garden: A beautiful botanical garden offering natural products like spices, essential oils, and teas, providing a relaxing break from the busy city.
- Wat Athvea: An ancient temple with a more relaxed atmosphere, often overlooked by tourists, but worth a visit for its peaceful setting.
- Wat Bo: A historic pagoda with beautiful architecture and murals, but less famous than other religious sites in Cambodia.
- Wat Damnak: A cultural and spiritual center in Siem Reap, housing a library and community projects, but less significant compared to Angkor temples.
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Wat Preah Prom Rath: A well-maintained pagoda in central Siem Reap, with interesting architecture and a relaxing garden setting.
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Angkor Wat in Miniature: A small-scale replica of Angkor Wat, interesting but not essential for those who visit the actual Angkor Wat nearby.
- House of Peace: A smaller, quiet attraction not widely visited by tourists, mainly of interest to those seeking peace and reflection.
- Wat Kesararam: A small temple with a traditional design, but it’s overshadowed by more prominent religious sites in the area.
- Wat Preah Inkosei: A small, peaceful temple with some historical significance, though not as prominent as others in the area.
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Ya-Tep Shrine: A small shrine popular among locals, but not a major draw for tourists compared to larger temples.
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Wat Preah An Kau Saa: A modest temple that, while peaceful, does not stand out compared to other temples in Siem Reap.
Getting There
Siem Reap-Angkor International Airport is just a 15-minute ride from town on the Airport Road. Buses run from other Cambodian cites and Bangkok to Siem Reap’s Chong Kov Sou Bus Station, two kilometers west of the center, though different bus companies depart from different area of town (most will simply pick you up at your hotel). From Phnom Phen’s Sisowath Quay, ferries and river boats travel the Tonle Sap River to Siem Reap, docking at chong-khneas, 12kms south of town, where boats to and from Batdambang also dock. During the dry season, ferry services are mostly suspended due to low water levels in the river. There are no train services to or from Siem Reap.
Siem Reap International Airport connects to prominent cities all across Asia. The local carrier, Cambodia Angkor Air, is internationally owned so passengers can rest assured that they’re flying safely. Flights to Phnom Penh and Bangkok both take about an hour, and there are also now 3-times weekly flights to and from the coastal city of Sihanoukville.
As Siem Reap, along with the Angkor Archaeological Park, is the primary tourist destination in Cambodia, there are a variety of ways of getting to Siem Reap. There are direct international flights to Siem Reap International Airport from various cities in Asia (including Bangkok) on a daily basis. For travel by bus or car from the Thai border, aside from a few patches of unpaved road, the overland ride from Bangkok to Siem Reap is now relatively smooth and fast, though not direct.
Buses from Phnom Penh or Batdambang to Siem Reap take between 4 and 6 hours, while boats from both locations take 4 to 10 hours, depending on the season. Buses and taxis between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap run regularly and there are also various buses to/from Siem Reap and other parts of the country, including the painfully long voyage from Stung Treng. You can also get here and away by daily boats to and from Phnom Penh and Batdambang, provided that the water level is high enough - the boats will still run when the water is low, but the trip is painfully long.
Getting Around
There are numerous options for getting around the town, visiting the temples at Angkor, and exploring the attractions in the surrounding area. (Note that prices are estimates based on 2011 rates)
Wherever you are staying, getting from your guest house or hotel to Pub Street or the Old Market area is quite easy. Tuk-tuk (covered carriages pulled by motorbikes) are plentiful: you will always come across a driver looking for business and will never have to wait long for transportation around town. Unlike in Phnom Penh, where tuk tuk drivers can be excessively greedy and rude, most tuk tuk drivers in Siem Reap are quite pleasant and rides nearly anywhere within the town should only cost $1.
On many corners around town there are also motorbike taxis (motodops), which are a good option for solo travelers making short trips. Motodops cost around 2000 riel ($0.50) for most trips within town.
Numerous hotels rent bicycles by the day; cheap, rickety, single-gear bikes typically only cost around $1/day while nicer mountain-bikes with gears may cost $5-10/day. There are no motorbikes for rent in Siem Reap (a policy that has arguably saved many lives).
Getting to Angkor
The most common methods for exploring the Angkor Archaeological Park are via tour bus, aboard a tuk tuk, or in a rental car or van. Tuk tuks can be arranged from nearly any guest house or hotel and should cost around $15 for a full day. Many people enjoy riding bicycles into the park, which can be self-guided adventures or with a tour company arranged through your hotel or tour agent. Once in the park, there are electric cars just before the South Gate of Angkor Thom that offer sightseeing within the walled city for $3/person (minimum 2 persons). If you are riding a bike into the park and need a break from pedaling, you can leave your bike for a few hours and explore aboard one of these comfortable electric vehicles. Should you favor air-conditioned travel, it is recommended to hire a mini bus or taxi; considerably more expensive, taxis are great for escaping both the heat and the rain on the long distances between some of the temples.
As it can be punishingly hot in Cambodia, after spending an hour or so walking around a temple in the sweltering heat if may be preferable to jump in an air-conditioned car or van rather than a tuk tuk. This luxury comes at a price however. A car rental for a day (including driver) will cost you around $25-30, while a van (for larger parties) will cost around $30-35 a day.
Taxis
Taxis are a more comfortable, if more expensive option for trips to the floating villages on the Tonle Sap Lake, as well as to temples farther from the town, such as Banteay Srei, Kbal Spean, Beng Mealea and Koh Ker. While a day trip to Beng Mealea, Kbal Spean, Banteay Srei and the Landmine Museum might cost up to $40-45 in a tuk tuk (Beng Mealea and Koh Ker are quite far), the price is perhaps double in a taxi, though at least twice as comfortable too.
Buses
Mini vans and buses are great forms of transport when you are touring Siem Reap with a large group. Most hotels in town will organize them for you to tour the temples. The daily rate for a mini van (can seat up to 12 people) is US$35 to US$40.
Tuk-tuk
Cambodian tuk-tuk are two-to four-person carriages drawn by motorbikes and are available all around the town. These auto rickshaws are very practical for getting around central Siem Reap and the Angkor temples, in particular the main temple area. They are also most useful if you wish to get from your accommodation to Pub Street or the Old Market area. A short ride should not cost you more than one or two dollars and most guest houses and hotels will arrange a tuk-tuk for you on request. The rate for a full day tuk-tuk hire is around $15.
Motorbike taxis
Also called motodops, these are an inexpensive option to get around town, especially for short distances. That said, most motodops do not have helmets for passengers and they are therefore not necessarily the safest option. It is not recommended to take a motodop for drives longer than a few minutes unless the driver offers you a helmet, since motorbike accidents are not unusual in Siem Reap. The price for a ride varies from $0.25-.50 and per day varies from $8 to $10.
Motorbikes for self-drive are not available for hire in Siem Reap; only foreigners who live or work here are permitted to ride them around town.
Electric bicycles
There are, on occasion, electric bicycles for rent in Siem Reap; you may see people riding them to get around the temples at Angkor. Make sure the battery is fully charged before setting off; recharging stations were built in various locations around the temples where you may change the battery if necessary, but this assumes they have been maintained, which is not guaranteed. The usual daily rate is around US$5.
Bicycles
A reasonable option to get around town, bicycles can be rented at many hotels and guest houses in Siem Reap and will cost you US$1 to US$10 per day depending on the quality of the bike. If you plan on riding one around the Angkor temples, realize that the distances between the temples is often quite far and that it is essential to protect yourself from the intense sun. Roads within the park are also rather narrow and bicycles are expected to give way to larger vehicles. For tours of the temples on motorbike see our bike-itineraries.
Walking
Getting around on foot is not a big problem since Siem Reap is a rather safe place and is relatively compact. In the evenings, however, it is wise to take some means of transport for security reasons, particularly if your guest house or hotel is down a smaller alleyway or if you are walking alone late at night. If you have a good map, you can easily navigate your way around the center of town by using landmarks such as the river, the Old Market, or a big hotel. Walking around the Angkor temples is almost impossible though because the distances between them are relatively far and the climate sticky and hot.
Car Rental
Guest houses and hotels can usually arrange a car and driver for you, which works out at around US$25 to US$30 per day and is a good option for visiting the temples if you don’t have much time. Many international firms provide car rental in Siem Reap as well. Note that foreigners are not allowed to drive a car in Siem Reap by themselves.
Where to Stay
As Cambodia is still a developing country, hotels have less overhead than their western counterparts and most accommodation in and around Siem Reap will provide good value for money. The cheapest budget guest houses start at under US$7 for a room with a fan (or even less for a dorm), while you can get a spartan air-conditioned room for around US$10, perhaps $15 if it has a TV. Mid-range guest houses offer fan or air-conditioned rooms for $10-$25 with some tasteful decor and even a swimming pool.
In the US$25-50 range you can stay in a very nice mid-range or boutique hotel, many of which are tastefully decorated and featuring swimming pools and spas. Once you reach the $100+ range you are almost certain to be treated like royalty by genuinely obsequious local staff and can expect rooms with Jacuzzis, and facilities that include world-class spas, fancy cocktail bars, fine-dinging restaurants, and oh-so-refreshing swimming pools.
If you wish to play it safe, are looking for international standards, and can afford to stay in a luxury resort, your best bets include Le Meridien and Sofietel, which are fairly standard offerings from well-known resort chains that have thrown in a bit of Cambodian flavor. Both even have golf courses in the area. Luxury Hotels with more integrated Cambodian style and charm include Le Grand Royal, Amansara, Victoria Angkor Resort & Spa, and La Residence D’Angkor.
The art of finding a good hotel in Siem Reap has changed dramatically in recent years, as there are over 150 hotels and guesthouses catering to over one million annual visitors. Accommodation varies from swanky luxury hotels that have hosted international A-listers to mom-and-pop budget guest-houses that cater to the thriftiest backpackers. The trick is finding the best value for your money, as many ‘luxury’ hotels are simply overpriced mid-range options and some of the budget guesthouses are bed-bug infested dumps.
Fortunately, there are more than a few gems to be found at every level, including some of the finest boutique hotels and charming guesthouses that double as hospitality training schools for disadvantaged Cambodians. In general, its best if you book in advance, as many of the best accommodation options are quite popular and those who arrive without reservations may fall prey to the ‘friendly’ tuk tuk drivers at the bus station or airport who are all too eager to take you to their ‘recommended’ guest house - typically not your best option.
Most of the big luxury resorts are located in the french-quarter, near the Royal Independence Gardens and along the road to the Angkor Archaeological Park, though there are a number of smaller luxury hotels near the Siem Reap River and in the area around wat-bo-road. The Wat Bo area is also where you will find many mid-range boutique hotels and a decent selection of budget guesthouses. On the fringes of the old-market-area, particularly the eastern and northern part of ‘’downtown” Siem Reap there are hotels in nearly every price range.
The main area for budget guest houses is around Wat Bo and taphul-village-area, which is located just north of Wat Bo Road, a bit farther from the action. West of the river, along National Route 6 towards the airport, the accommodation tends to cater to tour groups, but there are a few cheap guest houses as well.
Boutique hotels range from those that could be considered 5-star to those more in the ballpark of 3-star; they differ as much in style and service as they do in price. Some of the more popular and stylish include the FCC and Hotel de la Paix. Less well known options that are independently owned and provide a personal quality not found at the big luxury resorts include La Noria, Soria Moria, Frangipani, and Viroths.
Backpacker/budget
Not long ago, the most areas of Siem Reap other than the ‘city center’ were all backpacker zones. Nowadays budget-specific areas are being encroached on as boutique and five-star hotels have taken over the prime real-estate. Budget accommodation can still be found in the back alleys around the outskirts of the Old Market area, on and around Sivatha Road and in the Taphul Village district, and numerous backpacker options are still available on the secondary streets leading away from Wat Bo Road, in spite of its upwardly mobile trend.
Luxury hotel
Luxury hotels command some of the best locations in town, from the banks of the Siem Reap River to the area surrounding the Royal Independence Gardens and north towards Angkor. Many exude French-colonial splendor, while others are setting global standards for style and service. Along the airport road the finer hotels cater predominately to tour groups from other Asian countries, while boutique hotels are finding quiet corners around Wat Bo Road, Wat Damnak, and on the outskirts of town.
Where to Eat
Variety is the spice of life, and you are hardly starved for choice when dining in Siem Reap. Siem Reap presents a range of dining options that almost rivals that of the country’s capital, Phnom Penh. Every tourist season, new establishments open their doors to a growing number of visitors, offering nearly everything from Cambodian curries to Japanese sushi.
While the highest concentration of restaurants is located along Pub Street and the old-market-area, the quality is hit or miss, as many restaurants aren’t counting on repeat business. Some of the best bets are those that have withstood the test of time: The Tigre Papier, Khmer Kitchen, and Sugar Palm to name a few. There are also a few more upscale dining options in the area that balance atmosphere and food quality, such as Aha and Nest.
The more residential wat-bo and wat-damnak areas feature a number of restaurants that utilize their space to create some exquisite dining areas. Beaches serves some of the finest Thai food in Cambodia, Butterfly Garden has a unique atmosphere, Alliance Cafe is one of the more cozy and romantic dining areas, and Viroths provides an elegant dining area that is better for dinner as its a bit too popular with the tour-bus crowd at lunch.
While in Cambodia you should certainly try some of the local cuisine. Local food is cheap, tasty and easy to find, with small food-stalls setting up in groups along the southwest end of Pub Street. A range of different dishes can be found at these stalls such as lou, a plate of short, thick noodles with egg and chicken. One dish in particular that crops up on menus all over the city, particularly in restaurants (as opposed to street stalls) is the creamy fish curry known as amok trey. This filling curry dish, which is sometimes made with pork of chicken, is wrapped in banana leaves and steamed. Also very popular is sach ko char spee khieu: beef with broccoli, and Khmer sour soup, a scrumptious vegetable stew. Other delectable Cambodian dishes include saiong jayk mien snoul (chicken and pork sausages deep fried in banana flower leaves), char trop (stir-fried chicken breast and eggplant) ban hoaw (fried spring rolls covered with fish sauce), and bai cha, a tasty dish of fried rice with Chinese sausage. If you fancy a treat, try caw, which is a dish of slightly sweet braised pork or chicken and egg stew flavored with caramelized palm sugar.
If you choose to sample the local cuisine, you can expect to usually obtain a tourist-friendly version of the dish in restaurants. For the real stuff, walk to some back road and locate a place with as few tourists as possible. One such option, Roadside BBQ, is very popular and you will see stalls offering grilled chicken, fish, and quails everywhere. They also sell kidneys and liver along with some unrecognizable small animals, while the half-hatched duck eggs are best left to local connoisseurs. That said, even these local-style BBQ restaurants have foreigner-friendly versions where you can cook your own food along Pub Street and in the nearby street-stall area.
Dining at street stalls is relatively safe, especially as these “restaurants” do major volume and shop for their groceries at the same place as all the proper restaurants do. If you are looking for cheap but trustworthy food in Siem Reap and would rather taste genuine local fare, head to the food court situated at Central Market. Here, next to the souvenir and t-shirt vendors, you will find several tables and chairs served by various restaurants. Well worth a try is the first one, run by a family that prepares chicken and freshly caught fish from Tonle Sap Lake, which is relatively bony but extremely yummy.
For those too squeamish to try dining street-side, the following restaurants offer excellent local food in a proper restaurant setting: Khmer Kitchen, Sugar Palm, Viroths, Alliance Cafe, and Le Tigre Papier. Meric, at the Hotel de la Paix, is regarded by many as the best Khmer restaurant in Cambodia and does a set Khmer dinner including wine every evening.
For something a bit more romantic or sophisticated, try a dinner-theater. Dinner theater options vary: some offer a la carte menus, some set menus, and others buffets. These dinner shows feature classical Khmer dance and music that dates from the Angkor era and are performed by local artists in ornate costumes. A dinner show is a great way to try some traditional Cambodian food as well as take in some culture with a beautiful dancing show. Best bets here are La Noria, Apsara Theatre, Temple Balcony and Angkor Mondial restaurant.
Those who don’t fancy the national fare will easily find all sorts of restaurants serving much more familiar western food; Set in a beautiful villa, Café Indochine offers lip-smacking European and Asian cuisine; the Red Piano provides Cambodian and international food along with cocktails, and the legendary French-owned Abacus serves European as well as more unusual dishes such as grilled ostrich. For excellent Italian food, try Il Forno and if you are craving Mexican, Viva may satisfy your needs. There are also numerous options for authentic Japanese and Korean food as there are many visitors from these countries who also crave comfort food!
For a distinguished dining experience, head to one of Siem Reap’s first-class hotels such as the Sofitel Royal Angkor where you can indulge in an imposing buffet comprising several appetizers, entrees and desserts. One of the most famous restaurants in Siem Reap, the ultra hip L’Angelo is an excellent venue at Le Meridien hotel and presents Italian food with a twist.
A large percentage of Cambodia’s population is “vegetarian”; hence it is not too difficult to discover vegetarian alternatives in Siem Reap, all the more so as most restaurants serve a few vegetarian dishes. That said, ingredients such as fish sauce and soup stocks with pork and chicken are not uncommon and efforts by vegetarians to inquire about such are basically futile. Fortunately there are a few Indian restaurants that understand the concept and several restaurants that specialize in vegetarian food: Chamkar is a vegetarian restaurant offering Cambodian cuisine, while the nearby V and A prepares Western-style ovo- and lacto-vegetarian food. Another option is Viking, which is owned by a young Khmer pair who have a basic vegetarian food menu.
Where to Party
Most nightlife in Siem Reap is near the Old Market, particularly along the aptly named Pub Street and the alleys running parallel to it, known to expats as “the passage” and “the lane”. This funky nightlife district in the city center, just north of the Old Market, features many Western-owned venues including sushi bars, an Irish pub, and a couple of all-night dance clubs. Along the Siem Reap River there are a handful of restaurants and bars, many attached to boutique hotels, that are romantic drinking and dining venues. The Night-Market area also features a number of attractions in addition to shopping, such as a movie theater, massage parlors, and a few atmospheric bars. Off Sivatha Road, there are a handful of discos and karaoke bars that cater mostly to Asians (Koreans, Chinese, and Cambodians), although foreigners are welcome.
Although Siem Reap is a rather small town, it presents a pretty rocking nightlife that allows you to party straight through to near-dawn. Nightlife venues are dotted across Siem Reap town, but most are bunched around the Old Market area, particularly along Pub Street, where amazingly early happy hour deals are offered and some places stay open into the wee hours of the morning.
Pub Street restaurants and bars awake at dusk and the tempo rises when the street is shut to traffic later in the evening. While Angkor What? and Temple Balcony are the epicenter of the Pub Street party scene, “the Passage” and “the Lane” (the alleys just north and south of Pub Street) offer more intimate, laid back, and hip drinking venues, such as Miss Wong, Art Deli, and Linga. For proper pubs, the Warehouse and Molly Malones offer standard pub-fare including Quiz Nights and draught Guinness.
If you aren’t looking to party, the Night Market is an enjoyable way to spend the evening. In addition to a charming atmosphere and plenty of souvenir shopping opportunities, there is a movie-theater, numerous massage parlors (including fish-foot massage), and the laid-back Island Bar.
Hotels generally have bars that serve quite expensive drinks but typically also have an excellent selection of imported wines and spirits; should you prefer the ambience of luxurious air-conditioned lobby bars including comfortable seats and live music, then one of the 5-star hotels is the ideal place. A sample of first-rate hotel life can be taken from the Elephant Bar at the Grand Hotel d’Angkor, the trendy riverside FCC, and the martini bar at Residence D’Angkor .
Several restaurants offer performances showcasing traditional Khmer culture. Two more popular establishments to sample good cuisine and enjoy cambodian-classical-dancing are Tonle Sap Restaurant and Aspara Theater, while La Noria combines shadow puppetry with dancing and music, all of which are performed by children.
Visitors don’t come to Siem Reap for jazz music but L’Explorateur Bar presents a relaxed setting with a jazz pianist, and Ella Wine & Jazz Bar provides a cozy evening offering snacks and a marvelous selection of wines. There is more live music in town nowadays, with Sokha Angkor Resort and Angkor Palace Resort offering Filipino bands that play pop music every evening. Other choices for live music are the Blarney Stone, Green Mango, and Red Orchid. For something entirely different, Dr Beat Richner, also known as Beatocello, plays original and Bach cello compositions at Jayavarman VII Children’s Hospital on Saturdays at 19:15. Entry is gratis; however, donations will assist the hospital in giving free medical treatment to the children of Siem Reap.
Finally, Cambodian discos like Sok San, Martini, and Zone One get going between 10:00 until 02:00 or 03:00, as do newer western-oriented clubs such as Hip Hop and the gay-friendly Heart Rock.
Where to Shop
The Old Market in the city center is a great place to shop for nearly anything you could possibly need. You can shop for everything from household goods and food products (including pepper) to wood and stone carvings, silver-work, clothes, and silk textiles, though many of these products are imported from China or Vietnam. Numerous boutique stores, many of which are run by social enterprises that are benefitting impoverished cambodian artisans, are waiting to be discovered on the little streets around the market and offer more stylish crafts. The open-air Night Market and neighboring Noon-Night Market allow you to avoid the heat of the day while you shop and have numerous products available at negotiable rates from friendly salespeople.
Shopping in Siem Reap offers a plethora of authentic Cambodian souvenirs, handicrafts, and textiles. Suiting all budgets, you can visit the numerous boutique stores, haggle at the many markets, or go right to the source and see how things are made or even commission something special. Most of what you will find in Siem Reap comprises of products made for the tourist in mind, although they often represent the culture, traditions, and religion of the local people, as well as the memories you will make on your trip to Siem Reap.
Depending on the quality and range of products you are looking for the markets are a great place to explore. Most markets in Siem Reap offer a wide selection of both products and product quality, so explore a bit and make some casual inquiries about prices as you go. Many shops and stalls sell similar products but offer better quality or friendlier price negotiations. Though hot and muggy, markets such as the Old Market are a feast for the senses, while the Night Market and Noon Night Market offer similar products in an atmosphere of milder temperatures.
Boutique shops in the Old Market area offer specialty products of higher quality than those at the markets, for slightly higher (and less negotiable) prices. However, many of these boutiques are shops selling goods produced by disadvantaged Cambodians and supported by local and international Social Enterprises in Siem Reap. While browsing, take a peek at the labels or find a flier near the cash register that will tell you about the organization that creates the products on sale. Some of the more popular of such include Nyemo and Smateria.
While opportunities to shop are everywhere, it is especially rewarding to visit the artisans who create these products. By visiting artisan workshops and galleries, you will uncover the best treasures in Siem Reap. There are many workshops that offer free tours and the opportunity to talk with artisans to learn about their work; some places even let you make your own creations. The pieces which are sold in these places vary greatly in price from as little as $5 to use a potters wheel on your own with the guidance of an English speaking Khmer potter at the Khmer Ceramics Center to $190 for a hand-spun silk dress at Les Chantiers Ecole Silk Farm. Other must-visit workshops include Artisans d’Angkor, Senteurs d’Angkor and the House of Peace.
It’s not hard to find proper supermarkets in Siem Reap, where you can purchase snacks and whatever you may have forgotten or run out of on your journey. Supermarkets are also good places to buy supplies if you want to picnic at Angkor Archaeological Park. There are many convenience stores in the area as well with some only selling drinks and snacks while others such as U Care supplying similar offerings to a small western drugstore/pharmacy.
As far a department stores go, Lucky Mall has a large (by Cambodian standards) clothing store where you can pick up clothes if you do not see anything appropriate in the markets, while the Angkor Trade Center has one open floor for souvenir shopping and two other floors with a restaurant and a buffet, all of which cater more toward the bused in tour groups, though there are many products there from all over Cambodia including hand-made jewelry.
Cambodia is famous for its sapphires and rubies that can be bought at the markets and department stores, provided you have some expertise or realize there is a possibility that you might not get as good a deal as you bargained for. For one-stop shopping, go to the Angkor Trade Center, the main focus of which is on gems, jewelry and gold, with a huge selection being offered on two extensive floors. Custom orders are welcome and goldsmiths are always on-site.
Siem Reap is a great place for art in Cambodia and is having a resurgence as the country reclaims and redefines what it means to be Cambodian. Contemporary galleries cum cafes and guesthouses that are must see-stay-chill out at are Art Deli on the Alley in the Old Market Area and 1961 along the western riverbank near Angkor National Museum. Arts Lounge at Hotel de la Paix, and the rotating exhibitions at The Warehouse and Raffles Hotel showcase more mainstream art.
Siem Reap is a fantastic places to find silks and to commission tailor made clothing. All of the markets have blouses, dresses, and mens’ dress and polo shirts as well as T-shirts. Most of the clothing runs small to petite in size, however the silks and tailor made clothing runs larger so the average westerner should not have much of a problem. The prices range from as little as $2 for a t-shirt to $190 for a commissioned silk piece.
Finally, there are numerous hawkers selling trinkets, t-shirts, hats, and books outside nearly all of the temples in the Angkor Archaeological Park. These are some of the most aggressive salespeople and the shrewdest of negotiators. Unless you are happy to keep your earbuds in and literally tune out their incessant “hello mister!” sales pitch you are likely to get sucked into one of their stalls as you walk out of a temple or swarmed by their children as soon as your tuk tuk pulls up in front of one. If you enjoy lively haggling and don’t mind paying higher prices than you are likely to find in town, by all means indulge them, just don’t think that buying something from them will get them to leave you alone, it will only encourage them to try even harder to get you to buy more. If you must purchase something, consider going to the vendor who is quietly tending to their stall.
Here are a few general tips for shoppers:
- Bargains are best found at local markets. Inspect for quality before paying a premium price.
- Recommended purchases are stone and wood carvings, as well as temple rubbings and silks.
- Carefully consider the social ramifications before purchasing from children (see below)
- When shopping for gems and antiques only go with a knowledgable party and know that it is illegal to buy and/or export historic, stone Buddha images.
For those new to shopping in Cambodia, there are a few basics that you should keep in mind. Typically, stores and work-shops have set prices and it is not common to haggle over prices, though it certainly couldn’t hurt to try. While at the markets, however, it is expected that you haggle for a better price as all items are marked up at the first round of sale. You are expected to offer a lower price and then eventually come to terms that both parties agree upon. Those not used to haggling can feel drained or frustrated by the process; therefore a positive mindset is necessary, as is the realization that you are often haggling over relatively small sums of money and these vendors are generally simple, working-class people, not vicious con-artists.
A word of caution when purchasing from child street vendors. While easy and (to some) fun to haggle with, they are at times relentless and seem to be everywhere. There are many ethical concerns regarding purchasing products from kids, whether it be books, bracelets, or postcards. For many, selling wares is how they make their livelihood; some even use the funds to help put themselves through school (or so many claim). However, there is a catch: many organizations in Cambodia are trying to help children get educated so they don’t have to work in the streets. Their aim is to find ways for them to go to school and have money for food. The systemic reality for many of these child vendors is that by buying from them you are actually encouraging them to continue working in the streets, drawing them away from school or their school work. The organization Child Safe has tips for how to deal with child vendors: www.childsafe.com