Around 700 years ago, at the height of the Sukhothai Kingdom, the area around Si Satchanalai was famous for its ceramics production. The main buyers of these ceramics were the Chinese, who prized them highly, and referred to the area as ‘Sangkhalok’, though it is known to Thais as Sawankhalok.
Today, tourists can visit the Si Satchanalai Centre for Study and Preservation of Sangkhalok Kilns for an insight into this ancient industry.
The kiln sites have been carefully excavated and signposted, though all of the placards are only in Thai. The fact remains that most exhibits here are self-explanatory, and English-language signage isn’t necessary to get the idea of how these kilns operate.
The biggest single kiln at Sawankhalok is oval-shaped and nearly 25 feet wide. When archeologists started the excavations, they uncovered some outstanding ceramic samples that are now on display at Sangkhalok Museum in Sukhothai. Plenty are on display here as well, and it is worth stopping by if only to see them in their original context.
Onsite exhibitions give visitors an idea of how the original ceramics were made. In fact, there are still pieces made here today, and they are on sale in the adjoining gift shop. Some of the most impressive pieces are fired in a half-buried wood-burning kiln.
In all, more than 500 kilns have been excavated in the region, a testament to how this industry thrived in the old days of Sukhothai. Of those that are on display here, the best are now enclosed in a pair of buildings. They’re unimaginatively named kiln numbers 61 and 42, but it’s worth ignoring the drab names and having a look anyway.
Getting There
Sawankhalok Kilns are located around 5km north of Si Satchanalai Historical Park, and you can get here from the park by cycling or driving beside the Yom River.
Need to Know
- What is it? A display of excavated kilns near Si Satchanalai-Chaliang Historical Park.
- When to go: November to February, when the weather is dry and cool.
- Where/nearest town: Si Satchanalai is about 10km to the north.
- Opening hours: 09:00-16:00 daily
- Entrance fee: 100B (free with entrance to Si Satchanalai Historical Park)
- Address: north of Si Satchanalai Historical Park