Encompassing the northernmost corner of Cambodia, where it borders both Vietnam and Laos, Ratanakiri or Ratanak Kiri (“Mountains of Precious Stones”) is one of the least populated and least visited, provinces in Cambodia.
It is a land of mountainous jungle where tribal villagers and exotic wildlife have lived practically undisturbed for centuries, with the exception of the carpet bombing that occurred after Vietnamese forces’ Ho Chi Minh trail snaked through otherwise impenetrable jungle.
Ratanakiri’s population consists of twelve different ethnic groups, including Khmer, Chinese, Laotian, Vietnamese, and eight groups of indigenous tribal chunchiet, each of whom has its own language and culture. While these tribal groups constitute 75% of Ratanakiri’s population, much of their cultural identity is being lost, particularly as the younger people in the villages in and around Ban Lung are gradually adopting the Khmer culture (as well as those of the US, UK, Korea, etc.)
That said, most of Ratanakiri really is off the grid, and the more time you have to spend there, the farther afield you can wander, and the more unspoiled and authentic the culture and wilderness become. The “quick and easy” way to explore the wilds of Ratanakiri is visiting Virachay National Park, a minimum 3-night trip arranged through the National Park Office located in town.
If you don’t have so much time, you can easily fill a few days floating in the spectacular Yak Laom Lake, visiting the nearby waterfalls or watching a sunset from the viewpoint above the Phnom Svay Reclining Buddha.
Other attractions in the province include the mining area/border town with Vietnam: Bo Keo, another volcanic lake: Lum Kut Lake, the former capital of Lumphat, and diverse ethnic communities in Voen Sai Tribal Villages.
Ban Lung is 365 miles (588 km) from Phnom Penh; east of Stung Treng along Route 78, which continues through Ban Lung and to the Vietnamese border. While the roads between Phnom Penh and Stung Treng and from Stung Treng to Ban Lung have improved significantly over the years, its still quite far; 5 1/2 hours from Stung Treng alone. You used to have to really want to go to Ratanakiri to venture out there, but nowadays quite a few visitors make the side-trip on their way to or from southern Laos as it is possible to cross in either direction with a visa on arrival from either country.
Where to Go
- Banlung: The vibrant capital of Ratanakiri, offering access to waterfalls, volcanic lakes, and indigenous cultures in Cambodia’s northeastern highlands.
- Bo Keo: A peaceful village known for its traditional farming practices and as a gateway to eco-tourism and trekking in Ratanakiri’s forests.
- Boeng Yeak Lom: A pristine volcanic crater lake surrounded by jungle, perfect for swimming, hiking, and experiencing the natural beauty of Ratanakiri.
- Cha Ong Waterfall: A stunning waterfall near Banlung, where visitors can walk behind the cascading water and enjoy the surrounding lush jungle.
- Katieng & Ka Chhanh Waterfalls: A pair of scenic waterfalls near Banlung, ideal for cooling off and enjoying the serene natural setting.
- Lum Kut Lake: A serene volcanic lake offering opportunities for relaxation and swimming amidst the natural beauty of Ratanakiri’s forests.
- Lumphat: A quiet riverside town and gateway to Virachey National Park, known for its eco-tourism opportunities and indigenous culture.
- O’Sinlear Waterfall: A hidden gem deep in the jungle, offering a tranquil spot for nature lovers to enjoy the peaceful surroundings.
- Virachay National Park: One of Cambodia’s largest and most remote national parks, home to diverse wildlife, dense jungles, and adventurous trekking routes.
- Voen Sai Tribal Villages: Traditional indigenous villages offering insights into the lifestyles and customs of Ratanakiri’s ethnic minorities, accessible via the Sesan River.