Phu Hin Rong Kla was designated a national park in 1984, but by then it was already known to all Thais for the central role it played in armed conflicts between the Thai government and People’s Liberation Army of Thailand (PLAT), a communist insurgency, during the 1970s.

The area was easily defended by the Communists due to its high elevation on a plateau and its proximity to Laos. China is also relatively close, and PLAT combatants received most of their training and funding from there. The PLAT were defeated in 1982 and within two years their stronghold had been converted into a national park.

Today’s visitors find a more peaceful environment dotted with waterfalls and forested hiking trails. La Hin Pum is an area of rounded stones that look like molehills, a strange feature casued by erosion. Lan Hin Taek is a another unique rock feature cut with a massive fissure that hosts otherworldly moss and orchid species. Man Daeng Waterfall tumbles through 32 cascading levels and can be seen as part of a six-hour hike. Be sure to hire a guide.

Despite its natural endowments, the park attracts more history buffs than nature lovers. The visitor center operates a museum that can get you started, retracing local history, but the best way to follow the events of the 1970s is by following the Third World Trail as it leads to the old Communist Headquarters, hospital and political military school.

The park is about 125km from Phitsanulok and can be reached through a combination of bus to Nakhon Thai and then by songtaew, which is slow and expensive, or by hire car, which is far preferable. For the latter, follow Highway 12 from Phitsanulok to kilometer marker 86 and then take Route 2013 followed by Route 2331. The airport in Phitsanulok operates regular 40-minute flights to Chiang Mai and 55-minute flights to Bangkok.

  • What is it? A former communist stronghold-turned-national-park.
  • When to go? During the dry season (November to February) or a couple months earlier if you’d like to see the waterfalls at their best.
  • Nearest town: Nakhon Thai, a short songtaew ride from the park.
  • Don’t miss: hiking the Third World Trail.
  • Address: Highway 2331
  • Opening hours: 06:00-18:00
  • Entrance fee: Adults 200B, children 100B