Phnom Da

In day-trip distance from Phnom Penh, the temples atop the hill may no longer feature a wealth of decoration as those as Angkor do, but their style is distinctive and are worth visiting along with the small museum at Angkor Borei, where some spectacular art and artifacts unearthed there are housed. Both sites are only accessible by boat from Takeo province.

Pre-Angkor Cambodian history is vague, but it is clear that the area around Phnom Da was a major religious center in Cambodia’s early-kingdoms years. While it is believed that a temple atop Phnom Da was dedicated by one of the last great Funan-era kings, Rudravarman (r.514-550), the current sandstone and brick temple dates to the 11th century and features some interesting bas-relief carvings, though most artifacts found here, including carvings from the temple, have been relocated to the museum.

Ashram Maha Rosei, a smaller temple located on the smaller peak to the southwest of the other temple, dates to the 7th or 8th century, at which time Funan was referred to as “Water-Chenla” by Chinese scribes, owing to Funan’s supposed subjugation and subsequent break-away from neighboring Chenla (whose major religious site at the time was located at Sambor Prei Kuk.)

Both the temple design and the statuary discovered at Ashram Maha Rosei differ greatly from later Angkor-era architectural and artistic styles. While the temple no longer features any of this art (again, its at the museum), the solitude of the location and the weight of history combine to create a worthwhile visit; the boat ride to the temple is pleasant and may allow you to spot some exotic wildlife, including a number of waterfowl.

Also at Phnom Da are five artificial caves that were originally built as Hindu shrines, later used by the Viet Cong during the Vietnam War, and were also reputed to have been used as cremation sites during the reign of Pol Pot.