Phnom Chisor

Completed in 1015, during the early years of King Suryavarman I’s reign, the eastward facing temple looks out over what was once the heart of realm of the pre-Angkor era realms of Funan and Water Chenla. Now somewhat in ruins, the temple is still impressive, particularly for those who haven’t yet visited Angkor, and the view is spectacular.

Originally accessed by a steep staircase from the east, there are now two primary stairways for visitors and devotees, one of which is located near a small school, where friendly children are often eager to serve as tour guides for a few dollars. Either way, there are hundreds of steps to the top, where the ticket booth is located.

At the top of the stairs there is a small, modern Buddhist pagoda, a pool dubbed the “Buddha’s Bath”, a reclining Buddha image, and a large lingham, a phallic symbol associated with Shiva, to whom the original temple was likely dedicated. After checking out these smaller attractions, the path leads around the north side of Phnom Chissor, where the primary grounds of a functioning Buddhist temple are located.

Of particular interest here is the large tree that is thought to be around 150 years old. From the tree or the eastern side of the temple the view is spectacular. Let your eyes follow the original staircase down to the base of the hill and you will see the remains of the Tonle Oum baray (an artificial reservior), and a pair of smaller structures that once were part of the old temple’s original grounds.

While much of the temple was damaged or destroyed during the fighting that took place during Cambodia’s violent 20th century civil war, there are a number of original carvings that are still intact, including Hanuman riding an elephant above the the eastern facing front door. Inside the temple enclosure there are a few other carvings if you explore a bit, and within the central sanctuary is a stone lingham, which you may pay respects to along with a small donation to the attendants within.