Phayao is a peaceful and mountainous getaway destination in northern Thailand. Rather than extensive infrastructure and amenities, visitors enjoy the laid-back atmosphere, natural beauty and rural Thai culture.
Phayao came into being around nine centuries ago as an independent city state that didn’t merge with the northern Lanna Kingdom until the 1300s. A monument in the city park honors King Ngam Muang, a powerful monarch who established strong ties with King Mengrai, ruler of Lanna in Chiang Mai.
This little town is not for cosmopolites looking for a high profile excursion, though it would appeal to anyone keen to check the pulse of a non-touristy Thai town. There are few organized activities on the agenda and virtually no nightlife. The town sits on the banks of Kwan Phayao, a man-made lake, which features a number of waterfront restaurants and bars. The major attractions are temples, monuments and boat rides on the lake.
Phayao is a small town that was once a major stopover on the route from Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai, but since Highway 118 was built connecting the north’s two main cities, it has become a bit of a backwater. Nevertheless, it stands on Highway 1, Thailand’s main south-north highway, and thus many Thai tourist buses pass on their way from Bangkok to Chiang Rai and the Burmese border at Mae Sai. Several of these buses make a brief stop in Phayao for a visit to Wat Si Khom Kham and maybe a meal in one of the lakeside restaurants.
Though the town sprawls over a large area, the main focus of activity is around the lake, so it’s easy enough to walk around this area, though Wat Si Khom Kham is a bit of a trek from here. The lakeside street, Chaykwan Road, is home to a huge number of restaurants and some of the town’s best accommodation options. This is also where you can hire a boat for a ride on the lake.
Where to Go
- Wat Sri Khom Kham: this lakeside temple holds an enormous Buddha statue as well as a museum with artifacts related to indigenous history and culture.
- Wat Analayo: this temple sits on a hilltop and also enjoys a nice view of the lake, with the city visible in the distance.
- Champa Thong Waterfall: follow the road to Chiang Rai out of Phayao for a few miles to reach this picturesque waterfall.
- Kwan Phayao: this lake is the city’s main attraction and doubles as the largest fish habitat in the region.
- Monument to King Ngam Muang: This king who lived 700 years ago is Phayao’s best-loved hero.
- Wat Phra That Chomthong: perched on a hill overlooking the lake and city, this quiet temple gets few visitors.
When to Go
Like the rest of North Thailand, Phayao has three seasons. The best time to visit is the cool season (Nov-Feb), when skies are clear and temperatures are bearable. The town can get stiflingly hot during the hot season (Mar-June), and the rainy season (July-Oct) is not the best time to visit national parks as trails can become impassable.
Things to Do
There’s really nothing to do in Phayao except soak up the tranquil lakeside atmosphere of a sleepy Thai town. None of its temples are famous throughout the land, though Wat Sri Khom Kham is worth a visit to see one of the largest Buddha images in North Thailand and some gory depictions of the hereafter in a small ‘Garden of Hell’ located in the temple grounds.
Wat Analayo is also a distinctive temple for its statues and well-tended gardens, but it’s tricky to get to without your own transport.
The one essential activity in Phayao is to chill out on the banks of Kwan Phayao in one of the many bars, cafes and restaurants that offer great views over the water. It’s also tempting to take a boat ride on the lake; most rowers take people out to Wat Tilokaram, a small shrine a few hundred meters from the shore, located above the site of a temple that was flooded when the lake was formed.
Phayao Province has some very attractive scenery, and a visit to Doi Phu Nang National Park is worth it for its mountainous peaks and waterfalls, though there are no bungalows here and you’d have to rent a tent to pitch here.
Getting There
Phayao is around 700 kilometers from Bangkok and can be reached via overnight coach. The nearest airport is roughly two hours away in Chiang Rai, and from here it’s possible to connect to Chiang Mai or to Bangkok in roughly an hour.
With no airport or train station, Phayao’s public transport options are limited to bus, from Bangkok, Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai. Buses take around 11 hours from Bangkok, 3 hours from Chiang Mai and 2 hours from Chiang Rai. The bus station is quite conveniently located just north of the town center on Harinsut Road, almost next door to the Gateway Hotel.
Getting Around
Though the town of Phayao stretches out along the borders of Phaholyothin Road (Highway 1), the town center and lakeside is all compact enough to walk around. In fact, a stroll along the lakeside promenade is one of the town’s most enjoyable activities. It’s quite a way from the center to temples like Wat Si Khom Kham and Wat Phra That Chomthong, so it’s better to hire the services of a motorbike taxi or trishaw.
Where to Sleep
Few visitors stay overnight in Phayao, so don’t arrive here expecting to find fancy accommodation options. Its few hotels are run-of-the-mill places that rarely host guests for more than a single night. However, there are a couple of places with character down by the lake that are well worth checking out for their waterfront location.
Where to Eat
You’ll never go hungry in Phayao, especially when you’re on Chaykwan Road, which seems to be exclusively restaurants, cafes and bars. Unfortunately, few of them have English menus, though the couple mentioned below are exceptions. If you’re feeling adventurous, take a stroll down Robwiang Road in the evening and try a few dishes at the hundreds of food stalls that line the road from about 5pm onwards.