Built on an island at the center of Jayavarman’s artificial like, the Jayatataka baray, Neak Poan (Neak Pean) is one of the most interesting temples at Angkor, both for its intriguing symbolism and for its curious design.
A small central sanctuary rests on an island surrounded by a pair of naga statues and four pools surround the central pool, each featuring a waterspout carved in the likeness of a different animal head.
The original name for the temple was Rajyasri, “the Fortune of the Kingdom”, and was consecrated in the late 12th century under the reign of Jayavarman VII, likely around the same time as the construction of nearby Preah Khan, where inscriptions describing the island temple are primarily found. These inscriptions and the writings of 13th century Chinese emissary Zhao Daguan describe the temple quite differently from the ruins discovered in the 20th century, suggesting the temple at the center of the island may be quite different from the original, which may have been dedicated to Hindu dieties rather than the Buddha or Lokesvara.
Nonetheless, Neak Pean as it was discovered consists a quincunx of five square pools, the central pool featuring a small, lotus-shaped, island shrine, dedicated to the Bodhisattva Lokesvara (an incarnation of the Buddha). Surrounding the circular central island is a pair of serpent statues, their heads raised at the stairway facing east and their tails entwined at the rear of the temple. The four ancillary pools are connected to the central pool by archways in each of the cardinal directions and feature gargoyle-like spouts in the shape of various animals.
From the Khmer inscriptions and the writings of Chinese emissary Zhao Daguan, it seems that the temple incorporated numerous features that represented rebirth or resilience, and have been cited as additional evidence of the rebuilding of Angkor after defeating the Cham invaders, though some historians now doubt such a war ever occurred at this time.
That said, the central pond does seem to represent the mythical Himalayan lake Anavatapa, the source of the four sacred rivers of the earth (represented by the four surrounding pools) and the abode of the nagas Nanda and Upananda (represented by the serpent statues). The waters of Anavatapa held restorative powers, and the Neak Poan was told to have the power of “…clearing away the sins of those who approach it.”
Even the lotus-shaped central shrine features similar symbolism, described in inscriptions as “a lotus rising that carries the image of the supreme god,” representing the birth of Brahma from of a lotus grown out of Vishnu’s navel at the beginning of a new cycle of the universe.
Orientation
While the temple was once only accessible by boat (a landing at the eastern entrance of Preah Khan aligns directly with the Neak Poan), the baray is now dry and there is a road leading to the Neak Poan from the north of the temple.
Arriving early in the morning, you are likely to have the ponds to yourself, greatly enhancing the experience, as the area is home to a number of birds and frogs, and photographs of the temple reflected in the pool are unobscured by tour bus patrons, who also arrive relatively early.
Approaching from the north, you will be looking directly across the northern pool, into the alcove to which it is attached to the central pond, and at the central sanctuary on the island beyond it. If the pools are dry, you may enter the alcove to inspect the spout in the shape of elephant, as well as the decorative, arched ceiling and walls that feature low-relief lotus flowers. Each of the four alcoves features a different spout: east – human, south – lion, and west – horse.
The towers above the alcoves are decorated with carvings recounting episodes in the lives of the Buddha. While the statue from the central sanctuary was never recovered, the statue facing the island just to the east of the island honors an episode from Buddhist lore. The statue of the horse that is facing the island from the east represents an avatar of Lokesvara, Balaha, who saved a group of shipwrecked sailors, represented by the crouching figures clinging to the horse’s underside as it swims towards the island.
Need to Know
- What is it: A unique island-temple symbolizing the rebirth and eternal prosperity of the Kingdom
- When to visit: The Neak Poan is best visited during or at the end of the rainy season, between November and January, when the surrounding pools are full of water.
- Nearest Town: Siem Reap
- Don’t Miss: Neak Poan’s pools full of water in the height of or near the end of the rainy season
- Admission: Angkor Archaeological Park Pass Required
- King: Jayavarman VII and perhaps reconstructed by later king.
- Date: late 12th - 13th century
- Religion: Hinduism/Buddhism
- Artistic Style: Bayon