Nan is one of North Thailand’s gems that is still relatively undiscovered. Despite its striking temples and beautiful countryside, few travelers make the effort to get to this remote area, which makes it all the more rewarding for adventurous travelers looking for somewhere off the beaten track.
Nan is one of the original seven kingdoms that comprised Lanna, and has a rich and detailed heritage. The numerous Buddhist temples that dot the wide, quiet streets of town are all interesting and most date back centuries. For a look at the history of Nan, the Nan National Museum provides a great collection of both Buddhist relics and items from the many regional hill tribes.
Although the tourism industry is in its infancy in Nan, all the usual outdoor activities are still available. You may have to be more self-sufficient here, but the trekking is superb and the Nan River perfect for white-water rafting, as there is a stretch of rapids that rage during the rainy season. For more information about day trips in the area, contact Fhu Travel at 453/4 Sumonthevarach Raod (www.fhutravel.com; 054710636), the town’s longest-standing and most reliable tour operator.
Surrounding Nan are some amazing natural sites such as the Doi Phu Kha National Park with its web of walking trails, waterfalls and mountain scenery. Tham Phah Tup Forest Reserve is the place for caving just a few minutes north of town.
Once the capital of an independent kingdom, Nan these days is a small town sitting on the west bank of the River Nan. It boasts some of North Thailand’s most notable temples, as well as some of its friendliest people. Though once a walled city, there are no obvious remnants of walls and moats, and the new town now stretches out into the surrounding valley.
The town center is very compact and is ideal for sightseeing. Within a stone’s throw of each other you’ll find Wat Phumin, Nan National Museum, Wat Hua Khuang and Wat Chang Kham, and the backstreets also contain some very atmospheric, though not well known, temples.
The main street of Nan is called Sumonthevaraj Road, which is the location of some of the town’s main lodgings, while other small guest houses are tucked away in the backstreets. Most of the town’s commercial activity is along either Sumonthevaraj Road or Anantaworarichides Road, including several restaurants. The town’s hospital is to the north of the center, and a few kilometers further north out of town is the town’s airport.
Where to Go
- Wat Phumin: Nan’s most famous temple features well-preserved murals.
- Wat Phra That Chae Haeng: A few kilometers east of town, this temple has an eye-catching gold stupa.
- Nan National Museum: in one stop you can learn about the ancient kings of Nan, the hill tribes who live in the area and the rich legacy of Buddhism in the town.
- Wat Ming Muang: home to Nan’s city pillar and some striking murals.
- Wat Phra That Chang Kham: One of Phrae’s oldest temples, with a stupa ringed by elephants.
- Wat Hua Khuang: One of Nan’s oldest temples, with some intricate carving on the gables.
- Wat Suan Tan: this temple houses a Buddha image that dates back to the 14th century.
- Wat Khao Noi: a hilltop temple that offers great views over the town.
When to Go
Nan has three seasons; the cool season (from November to February) is the best season for trekking in the region, as days are bright and sunny but not hot. During the hot season (from March to May), the best place to be is on top of Doi Phu Ka to avoid the heat in the valley.
The rain season (June to October) is ideal for white-water rafting on the province’s choppy rivers. If you get to choose when to go, time your visit to coincide with the Lanna Boat Races in late October/November, one of Thailand’s most colorful festivals.
Things to Do
Though there are plenty of interesting sights in Nan, to really appreciate the laid-back nature of the locals, it’s a good idea to do absolutely nothing for a few days; just take it easy, wander the backstreets, contemplate the river’s flow, and chill out.
In this way you’ll be more receptive when you go to visit the town’s main sights. Nan’s stellar attraction is Wat Phumin, an unusual, crucifix-shaped building that houses some eye-catching murals. From Wat Phumin, cross the road to the Nan National Museum and learn about the town’s history and culture through clear displays, while admiring the sturdy architecture of this former governor’s home.
Just opposite the museum is Wat Chang Kham, where there are several points of interest, and adjacent to the museum is Wat Hua Khuang, one of Nan’s oldest temples. Don’t leave town without crossing the river to see Wat Phra That Chae Haeng, which boasts one of the most beautiful stupas in all the north, and when you’ve explored the town enough, hit the road to take in other wonders of Nan Province, such as Sao Din, Doi Phu Ka National Park and Wat Nong Bua.
If you can arrange your visit to coincide with the Lanna Boat Races (contact the Tourist Authority of Thailand for details) in October or November, you’ll be left with colorful memories of excited locals cheering on their favorite dragon boat teams as they churn up the River Nan on the way to the finish line.
Getting There
One of the main reasons that Nan receives so few visitors is that it’s a long way from anywhere, but with budget airline Nok Mini now operating daily flights from Bangkok, there’s no reason to stay away.
Nan airport receives four flights a week from Chiang Mai on Kan Air and daily flights from Bangkok on Nok Mini. The bus is the cheapest way to reach Nan, although journeys can be long and arduous. It is also possible to rent a car and make the drive yourself in around 4 hours from Chiang Mai. The scenery along the way is some of Thailand’s best.
There’s no railway line in Nan Province, which means the only alternative to a flight is a long busride from Chiang Mai (about 5 hours) or from Bangkok (about 11 hours). One advantage of arriving this way is that you get to see lots of beautiful countryside even before you arrive, and north of town, it gets even better.
Getting Around
Nan is so small that you can easily visit the sights in the center on foot, though for other sights such as Wat Phra That Chae Haeng, you’ll need to hire the services of a trishaw. Most hotels and guest houses can arrange bicycle and motorbike rental, which is also a good way of exploring the town and its surroundings. Expect to pay 50B-80B per day for a bicycle and 150B-200B for a motorbike, depending on its condition.
Where to Stay
Though Nan is not a great tourist mecca, accommodation options in the town are constantly improving, and now there’s somewhere to suit almost everyone, from classic travelers’ guest houses to chic boutique properties, and plenty in between. To get the full effect of being away from it all, consider staying somewhere like the out-of-town resort Sasidara, set at the base of Khao Noi.
Where to Eat
As with most small towns, visitors are more likely to make surprising discoveries by checking out food stalls on the street than by looking for fancy restaurants. All sorts of goodies can be found here, from grilled corn to spicy meatballs with a chilli dip.
After dark, there are several food stalls along Anantaworadet Road opposite Sukkasem Hotel. As the town still only receives a trickle of foreign tourists, there are few places with an English menu outside the hotels, though there are plenty of places where food is on display and you can just point. Those mentioned below all have English menus unless otherwise stated in the review.
Where to Party
Nan is one of those rural towns where pretty much everyone is in bed by 9pm, so there’s no real nightlife. Supping a beer at a riverside restaurant like the Good View while listening to piped Thai pop music is about as exciting as it gets, though the Dhevaraj Hotel also has a live band playing in its restaurant some evenings.
Where to Shop
Nan province is famed for its intricate weavings, most of which are produced by the Thai Lu. There are several shops along Sumonthewarat Road that sell beautifully patterned textiles either by the meter or ready fashioned into skirts, jackets or bags. Along this same road are also several silver dealers, who sell jewelry and decorative items made by Hmong tribes in nearby villages.
Need to Know
- Worth it? Absolutely, if you have the time to spend a week or so in one of the last untapped regions of northern Thailand.
- What to do: wander the ancient Buddhist temples in Nan, raft down the Nan River, explore caves or hike into a national park to soak up nature.
- Best time to go: November through March offers the clearest skies and coolest temperatures.
- How long? You can see the major sights in town in a couple of days, but it’s best to allow a week to really feel the relaxed pace of Nan.