A huge country spanning the plains and deserts of northeast Asia, Mongolia has preserved many of its centuries-old nomadic customs. Though low on typical tourist sights, those seeking a unique culture, rough landscape and wildlife will find this a rewarding destination. It seems like the more remote banishment you can imagine but things have changed and it’s been a while since the scourge of Ghengis Khan.
What’s Cool
Western comforts in Ulaanbaatar, camping in traditional ger tents, Genghis Khan’s fabled city of Karakorum, vast Gobi Desert, two-humped camels, dark blue Khuvsgul Lake, basalt-covered Khorgo Volcano, rare wildlife in Gun-Galuut Nature Reserve, Edelweiss and green meadows in Gorkhi-Terelj Valley.
What’s Not
Pestering drunks, pushy beggars, power cuts, the ‘Mongolian scramble’ involving getting kicked or pushed in crowds and when queuing, nothing in English, no toilet paper, suspicious men hanging around in the street and taxi drivers overcharging.
Where to Go
Highlights
Gandan Khiid: is Ulaanbaatar’s main monastery and Sükhbaatar Square is a large communist-style open area.
Four Holy Peaks: surrounding Ulaanbaatar roughly correspond to the four points on the compass.
Tavanbogd National Park: includes three lakes and is divided from China by the high walls of snow-capped peaks.
Hovd: is a historic city at the crossroads of traditional Mongol and Kazakh culture.
When to Go
Mongolia has four distinctive seasons and the sun shines for well over 200 days a year on average.
Spring (March to May) is when the snow melts and the animals come out of hibernation (some people too).
Summer (May to August) is the best time to visit with many feasts, holidays and happy people plus abundant dairy products!
Autumn (September to November) has less rain than other seasons and sees flies die and livestock getting fat!
Winter (November to February) is long and freezing, and is when herdsmen stay at their winter camps.
Festivals & Events
Mongolians love festivals, many of which celebrate animals and are lubricated by liberal servings of fermented mare’s milk. Here are some of the best to get to.
February: Thousand Camel Festival features camel races and performances by traditional Mongolian musicians and dancers in the Gobi Desert.
July: Nadaam celebrates the ‘three manly sports’: wrestling, horseracing and archery.
September: Nomads’ Day showcases nomadic customs and ceremonies including competitions between kids, horsemen, women and families.
October: Golden Eagle Festival features Kazakhs on horseback, dressed in their traditional dark coats and scarlet hats with golden eagles perched on their arms.
Things to Do
Sleeping: in a traditional ger tent is a great experience, particularly after some fermented mare’s milk.
Cultural sightseeing: at Tibetan-style lamaseries while walking around and turning every prayer wheel that you see.
Spas and health treatments: in the Khangai mountain region with more than 20 hot springs renowned for their healing properties.
Skiing: can be done around Ulaanbaatar, with both downhill and cross-country available.
Exploring abandoned cities: from communism’s industrial and collectivist past can be a real eye-opener.
Getting There
Flights are often delayed and cancelled partly due to frequent poor weather conditions and foreigners pay several times more than Mongolians do for tickets. Overland transport is mainly by shared vans and jeeps as public buses are virtually non-existent, making journeys long, slow and hard on your behind, not too mention there isn’t too much to see. Oh, and expect to break down on the way. Mongolia’s railway is made up of a north-south line, which is part of the Trans-Mongolian Railway. Taxis are only practical in Ulaanbaatar or for short trips out of the city.
Health & Safety
While generally a safe place, Mongolia has a serious problem with alcoholism which often leads to violence. Local driving standards leave a lot to be desired and accidents are frequent, while domestic airlines have a poor safety record. Healthcare facilities in the countryside are extremely rudimentary. Nomads’ dogs may have rabies, while eating marmots at certain time of the year can be risky, as they may carry bubonic plague!