Just 80km west of the capital city of Tak Province, Mae Sot sits near Thailand’s border with Burma where the Asian Highway (AH1) crosses between the countries over the Friendship Bridge. This is arguably the most important link between the two countries.

Myawaddy is across the border from Mae Sot, and it’s possible to cross via the Thai-Myanmar Friendship Bridge which was built more than a decade ago. The border is generally open during daylight hours, and international visitors may cross to explore the market but are not permitted to stay the night.

There are several foreigners living in Mae Sot who work for various NGOs that operate helping Burmese refugees in the area. There are also lots of Burmese, and signs in Burmese seem to outnumber those in Thai. Most tourists who come here are on their way to the Umphang Wildlife Reserve and Thi Lor Su Waterfall to the south of Mae Sot.

There are no jaw-dropping sights in town, and those in the vicinity are all relatively low-key. Rim Moei Market, on the shores of the Moei River, is novel and deals in a mixture of contraband and above-board goods. Gems are the most notable items for sale though everyday tourists are warned against investing much money in what’s likely to be a convincing fake. While out near the border, it’s also worth hunting down the unusual Wat Phra that Hin Kiu, where a tiny chedi sits on top of a hilltop rock.

Mae Sot lies just 6km from the border with Burma, and the town has an unmistakable border feel, as it’s peopled by a diverse mix of ethnic groups - not only Thais and Burmese, but also many hilltribe people and several Westerners too.

It’s a big, bustling place that can be disorienting for new arrivals, as there’s a complex one-way system and lots of winding backstreets and jam-packed markets. Fortunately, most hotels and restaurants are located along the town’s main street, Intarakiri Road, while another major road, Prasart Withi, runs parallel to the south, and both streets have a west-east orientation.

It’s easy to rent a bicycle or motorbike at any hotel or guest house, and though there are no major sights in town, it can be fun to ride around exploring local markets and temples, or even a jaunt to the border. Pick up a hand-painted map of the town (90B) at Borderlines (see shopping) to help find your way around.

Mae Sot’s climate is similar to the rest of the north, with the exception that the cool season is not as pronounced here due to the lower elevation. From November to February it’s cool and sunny, from March to May it’s hot and humid, then the rainy season kicks in from June to October.

Mae Sot is peopled by some very interesting characters, so it’s worth looking for opportunities to get chatting and find out a bit more about those who live here or are passing through like you. Since there are no sights to speak of in the town center, you may find yourself whiling away the hours in one of the town’s friendly restaurants or cafes. There’s quite a lively nightlife here, too, so you don’t have to head back to your room after dark.

Mae Sot’s few sights are all out near the border, so the best bet is to rent a vehicle and go look at them all in one trip that will still only take up half a day. Start out at the Friendship Bridge, watching the comings and goings or even crossing to Myawaddy for the experience of being in Burma. Then take a look at the Rim Moei Market, located right underneath the bridge, in a hunt for border bargains.

On the way back to Mae Sot, a signed left turn leads a few meters to Wat Tha Wattanaram, where there’s a huge reclining Buddha. Continuing up the same road takes you to Wat Phra That Hin Kiu, with an amazingly balanced rock capped by a chedi on the top of a hill.

If you’re planning a trip to Thi Lor Su Waterfall, Mae Sot is the best place to stock up on tasty treats for the trail, as in Umphang there are hardly any shops at all.

Highway 12 connects Mae Sot to Tak, and the journey takes an hour or two, depending on accident hold-ups. Buses from Bangkok’s Northern Bus Station (Mor Chit) take about 8 hours. If you’re coming from Chiang Mai, there are irregular flights here operated buy Kan Air.

If you’re heading to Mae Sot from Bangkok, there are regular departures from the Northern Bus Station (Mor Chit) and the journey takes around 8 hours. If you’re coming from Chiang Mai, there are flights by Kan Air on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, or buses traveling via Lampang and Tak cover the journey in about 5 hours.

Perhaps because there’s always a resident population of farang in Mae Sot, it’s easy and cheap to rent a bicycle or motorbike (ask at any guest house or hotel) to get around while you’re here. The town center is fairly compact and much of it can be walked, and if you just need to make a long trip now and then, hop on a motorbike taxi or tricycle.

Mae Sot has a lot more budget options than most other Thai towns, which may have something to do with the semi-permanent population of foreigners working here with NGOs, assisting Burmese refugees in nearby camps. Most of these budget hotels, as well as some decent mid-range options, are located along Intarakiri Road.

The only top-end place, Centara Hill Resort Mae Sot, is located on the Asian Highway (Highway 12), a few kilometers from the town center.

One of Mae Sot’s biggest surprises is its culinary delights, which you might not expect from a far-flung border town such as this. Besides one of the best restaurants in the land (Khaomao Khaofang, which rivals anywhere in Bangkok or Chiang Mai for quality), there are several places that cater to foreign tastes, offering bacon and egg breakfasts and steaks, as well as Thai and Burmese cuisine. Most places are conveniently located along Intarakiri Road in the town center.

Mae Sot has quite a lively nightlife, catering to its multi-ethnic mix of Thais, Burmese, hilltribe people and foreigners. It’s difficult to recommend specific places, as they tend to change so fast, but apart from the couple of places mentioned below, it’s worth cruising the short strip of the new ring road that runs south from the Centara Hills Hotel on Highway 12 to Intarakiri Road. Mae Sot’s nightlife has recently moved here from the western end of Intarakiri Road, and there are lots of bars, many featuring live music, among which you may find somewhere that feels right for you.

Few people visit Mae Sot for the shopping, but because of the town’s ethnic diversity, it’s an interesting place to hunt around for unusual items. The town’s main market, located in the town center, is a maze of alleys selling everything imaginable, as is the Rim Moei Market, under the Friendship Bridge.

There are also several shops selling handicrafts and locally made textiles, which make distinctive souvenirs. Mae Sot’s most famous product is gems of all types, and there is a concentration of shops along Prasart Withi Road, though if you are not an expert on gem recognition there’s a high risk of being ripped off.

  • Worth it? It’s worth a look for its multi-ethnic mix.
  • What to do: cross the border to Myanmar, go shopping at the market, stock up for a trek to Thi Lor Su Waterfall.
  • When to go: from November to February when the weather is cool and dry.
  • How long? A day is enough to get a feel for the town.