Situated on a mountain peak straddling the Thai-Burma border is the quaint town of Mae Aw.

The distinct Chinese flavor of Mae Aw comes from the Chinese Nationalists (Kuomintang or KMT) who settled here decades ago, while its official name, Ban Rak Thai, meaning ‘the village that loves Thailand’ is a reminder of where their loyalties should lie.

It’s possible to visit Mae Aw in a day trip from Mae Hong Son, as it’s just 44km to the north, and the journey passes some stunning scenery. There’s little to do in Mae Aw itself except marvel at the ubiquitous Chinese signs and non-Thai residents.

A number of Shan, Hmong and Karen hill tribe villages dot the area, and make for interesting side trips. Having your own wheels is very helpful up here, as public transport is irregular and unreliable, though travel agents in Mae Hong Son organize trips here. Pha Sua Waterfall is a nice diversion, especially if it’s hot and you want to cool off in the pools. The Pang Tong Summer Palace and a royal project are other interesting diversions in the area.

Songtaew make the trip between the two towns, but it’s much more fun to rent your own vehicle in Mae Hong Son and drive yourself to all the little attractions, or join a day tour. The nearest airport is in Mae Hong Son and it receives daily flights from Chiang Mai.

  • What is it? A border town inhabited by descendants of Chinese Nationalists (KMT).
  • When to go: the dry winter season from November to February is the best time to visit.
  • How long? One day is enough to get a feel for Mae Aw.
  • Nearest town: Mae Hong Son is 44km to the south.