This impressive building, located right in the center of Phrae’s old town, used to be the governor’s house, and has recently been renovated and opened to the public, giving an invaluable glimpse of the town’s past.

Like Vongburi House, Khum Chao Luang is a rambling mansion with many rooms that are equipped with period furnishings, and the walls are covered with fading black and white photos of Phrae in the past.

The immediate noticeable difference is that this building is painted green instead of pink, and there is a prominent statue of Chao Luang Piriya Theppawong, the last independent ruler of Phrae, in the attractive garden in front of the mansion.

It’s worth taking a wander round all the rooms here and soaking up Phrae’s history, while pausing occasionally to admire the views from the windows.

One room you probably won’t want to linger is in the windowless basement, which is so low you need to stoop, and shackles on the wall along with images show that this was once used as a prison and torture chamber. For some reason Thais think it is bad luck to step forwards into this dim room, so don’t be surprised if you see Thai visitors going in backwards.

Take a trishaw or motorcycle taxi from anywhere in town.

  • What is it? A former governor’s house converted into a museum.
  • Opening hours: 08:30-16:30
  • Entrance fee: Free
  • Address: Khum Derm Road
  • Where? Just west of the traffic circle in the center of the old town.