Kbal Spean features one of the most accessible nature trails for those tired of temples, though the main attraction are the religious carvings in the stone riverbed of the Siem Reap River, including ‘thousands’ of lingas intended to consecrate the water that flowed down to Angkor.
In order to consecrate the water that flowed down the Siem Reap River to Angkor, Suryavarman I commissioned sacred carvings in the river just north of Banteay Srei temple, near the sacred mountain of Phnom Kulen. Some years later Udayadityavarman II consecrated a golden linga in the river and had many additional carvings made. The ‘River of a Thousand Lingas’ at Kbal Spean thus became famous for the numerous fertility symbols carved into the river bed, as well as animals and other Hindu imagery, such as the reclining Vishnu featured on the stone “bridge” after which the site draws its modern name.
Set deep in the jungle northeast of the Angkor Wat complex, the carvings and adjacent small waterfall are located at the top of a 30-45-minute, relatively challenging uphill climb that passes through thick jungle teeming with butterflies and birds. Once at the river, you may walk upstream to the bridge, looking out for rock carvings of gods, goddesses and animals, including a frog and a bull.
At the clearing above the waterfall where the bridge is located there are a pair of opposing Vishnu carvings, that feature Brahma rising atop a lotus from Visnhu’s belly button while Vishnu’s consort Lakshmi sits beside him.
The Angkor Centre for Conservation of Biodiversity is located near the entrance to Kbal Spean. There are public tours of the center that provide information about the animals on site every day except Sunday at 1pm.
When to Go
The forested trail is mostly shady, so the hike can be made any time of day, though its cooler in the morning. Go midday if you wish to go to the Angkor Centre for Conservation of Biodiversity after your visit.
Getting There
Most people travel to Kbal Spean by taxi or tuk-tuk in combination with nearby Banteay Srei temple. If you are on a bicycle or have your own motorbike, take Route 67 from Siem Reap to Banteay Srei temple, and continue past for 12kms, watching out for the sign and parking area on the left. Flights connect Siem Reap with Phnom Penh in 25 minutes. 7 days in Phnom Penh (See Day 3 of this itinerary).
Need to Know
- What is it? An ancient Hindu pilgrimage site celebrating fertility and renewal in a dramatic jungle setting.
- Nearest town: 35kms northeast of Siem Reap.
- Trivia:
- Kbal Spean was a pilgrimage site for 200 years before Angkor was built.
- Kbal Spean translates as ‘the bridgehead’, referring to the natural rock bridge at the head of the waterfall.
- Opening hours: 5am - 3pm, daily.
- Entrance fees: Passes to Angkor Archaeological Park, including Kbal Spean cost US$20 (one day), US$40 (three days), and US$60 (seven days).