Kampong Cham is the 3rd largest city in Cambodia and the capital of the provence bearing its name. This gateway to the wild east of Cambodia has a variety of lodging options from budget backpacker to Khmer-upscale hotels complete with swimming pool.
Most people come to Kampong Cham in passing, as the city serves as the gateway to eastern Cambodia, including Kratie, Mondulkiri, and Ratanakiri. While few linger here, there are a few interesting Cham village worth visiting, some beautiful French colonial architecture, including the Old French Lighthouse, and a unique bamboo bridge, which is rebuilt every year by the residents of Koh Paen.
Farther from town are a number of Angkor and pre-Angkor era temples, as well as a few more modern temples atop hills, one of which has a memorial to the victims of the Khmer Rouge, who were particularly brutal to the resident Cham, nearly 25% of whom lost their lives in the war.
Prior to the devastation of the Khmer Rouge the city was an éclat of French colonial sophistication. A few remnants of it remain today, including the now antique buildings and a park that lines the shore of the Mekong and comes alive at night.
Located several hours north of Cambodia’s Capital Phnom Penh, Kampong Cham has the only bridge that crosses the Mekong River in the nation. This bridge gives better access to the transport of commodities harvested in the area, especially tobacco and rubber.
Kampong Cham is named for Cambodia’s most sizable ethnic minority group, the Cham, who are Muslim people originally from modern-day Vietnamese, where their kingdom was once a major rival to Angkor. Kampong, meaning port, describes the position along the Mekong River, where the only bridge crossing the waterway in Cambodia is located.
Orientation
Although Kampong Cham is third largest city in Cambodia it is not very popular with tourists and only offers the essentials in regards to tourist infrastructure; fortunately the town is geographically small and the areas that tourists will find food and lodging are all in walking distance of one another.
The “center” of town is arguably the waterfront area on the western bank of the Mekong River near Spean Kazuna, the lone bridge across the Mekong in Cambodia. Many of the town’s restaurants, guesthouses, and transportation providers can be found just north of the bridge.
Other center’s of dining, accommodation, and transportation are located just north of the traffic circle formed by National Road 7 and Ang Duong Street/Preah Monivong Boulevard, and the area just north and west of the town market.
Where to Go
- Kampong Cham Bamboo Bridge: A seasonal, hand-built bamboo bridge connecting Kampong Cham to Koh Paen island, showcasing traditional Cambodian engineering.
- Cham Village: Traditional Muslim Cham communities where visitors can experience distinct cultural practices, handicrafts, and traditional stilt houses.
- Koh Paen: A picturesque island in the Mekong River, accessible by the Bamboo Bridge, known for its rural charm, fruit orchards, and cycling routes.
- Old French Lighthouse: A colonial-era lighthouse offering panoramic views of the Mekong River, reflecting Kampong Cham’s French colonial heritage.
- Wat Nokor: A unique 11th-century temple complex blending ancient Khmer architecture with a modern pagoda, offering a fascinating juxtaposition of old and new.
- Spean Kazuna: A historic stone bridge from the Angkorian era, representing the remarkable engineering skills of the Khmer Empire.
When to Go
Kampong Cham shares its tropical climate with the rest of Cambodia; a ‘dry season’ that lasts from November to May and a ‘rainy season’ that runs from June to October. Temperatures are relatively constant (i.e. hot) throughout the year but humidity can vary. There are times of the year that are noticeably cooler or hotter, and as is normal for a monsoon climate, times when heavy rain is nearly constant. Kampong Cham is fine to visit during most of the year, though the hottest months from March to May can be too hot for comfort.
Humidity and rainfall may vary through the year, but Kampong Cham is typically hot. Few visitors will experience something they would call cool. Temperatures in the day range throughout the year from above 100°F in the early afternoon to around 70°F at night.
The hottest time of the year in Kampong Cham is toward the end of the dry season, when daytime temperatures can be dangerously hot. During the wet season, although copious amounts of rain are dumped on Kampong Cham with monotonous regularity, rainstorms and thunderstorms often last just one or two hours in the afternoon.
While monsoon rains may provide respite from the intense Cambodian sun, torrential rains wreak havoc on rural dirt roads, which become muddy morasses; travel to areas serviced by these roads can become difficult to impossible in the monsoon season months (June-October) for those without 4-wheel drive vehicles or off-road motorcycles.
Things to Do
Other than just enjoy the view of the Mekong River from the town’s riverside park, many other attractions and activities in and around Kampong Cham are located on or near the river. One of the easiest to visit is the old french lighthouse which is located on the western bank of the Mekong, across the Spean Kazuna bridge. The lighthouse was originally built to track cargo down the Mekong River, but has served several functions over the years.
The town’s other famous bridge, the Bamboo Bridge to Koh Paen, provides season access to a village just outside of town on an island in the middle of the Mekong. Koh Pean is a great place for biking, picnicking, and getting a taste of Cham and Khmer village life. Otherwise, the town is great just relaxing by day and winding down in the evening with a sunset cruise on the Mekong, dancing with the locals in the park, or enjoying the view from a local cafe.
The closest attractions near the town include Wat Nokor is an Angkor-style temple complex that dates to the 11th century, but has a modern temple built inside. Children preform traditional Cambodian dances in the evenings during the week. Phnom Pros and Phnom Srei are located several kilometers beyond Wat Nokor along National Road 7 towards Phnom Penh.
The province’s other temples of note include Wat Hanchey, which is accessible by boat, 20km up the Mekong River and Wat Maha Leap, which lies 20km outside of town on National Road 7 towards Kratie. Other area sights include local tobacco farms, which have been instrumental in the community’s self-reliance and interesting places to learn about how to grow tobacco.
For a treat beyond the town, visit the Memot Center for Archaeology, which exhibits early Iron Age remains found in the area. There are also a handful of recently studied archaeological sites close by the encompass remains of the ancient Memotian culture.
Getting There
From Phnom Penh, buses and mini buses leave every day at various times; travel time is around 2-3 hours by bus or car, depending on route and number of stops. Bus and taxi service is also available from Siem Reap, Kratie, Stung Treng, and Ban Lung. Boat rides are also possible from the capital along the Mekong, but take considerably more time and aren’t as prevalent as they once were.
Getting Around
Rent a bike and explore on your own or get a moto taxi to take you from A to B. There are a few tuk tuks around. Two of the best are listed below.
Where to Stay
Kampong Cham has several new mid-range hotels that are more in town rather than the riverfront with backpacker and local style guest houses closer to the Mekong. Hotel conditions have improved recently in terms of cleanliness, service, and convenience, but they still have a long way to go in other areas. Trendy, posh you won’t find, but there are some nice options of the usual shiny, heavy wood furniture sort.
Where to Eat
Kampong Cham has a great combination of Khmer, French, Chinese, and Western foods. Cafes are staffed by friendly employees and some also have tourist concierge services.
Where to Party
Nightlife is tame in Kampong Cham and caters to the locals and not really the tourists. The riverside lights up at night with lots of street food stands, kiddy rides, and pop-up shoe stores. Local aerobics that include music and dancing along the Mekong continue into the night. The best thing to do when passing through Kampong Cham is to grab a cool drink at one of the cafes near the river.
Where to Shop
Kampong Cham is recommended for sight-seeing over shopping. You can find some of the basics there if you need them. Also, if you are in the market for new flip flops for a few dollars, pop-up vendors come to the riverside at night to peddle their wares. Mostly locals shop here for whatever they need and travel to Phnom Penh for what they can’t get here. There are no specific handicrafts that this town specializes in.
Need to Know
- In Brief: Kampong Cham is a sight-seeing introduction to the more diverse side Cambodia. It is a good alternative to Kratie’s view of the Mekong and a great stop-over on the way to Mondulkiri or Ratanakiri.
- What to do: Learn about life along the Mekong River and visit charming temples.
- When to go: November to February is the best time to visit Kampong Cham to avoid the rain and excessive heat.
- Who for: For tourists who are traveling to the other side of Cambodia trying to get away from the more commonly frequented haunts.
- Trivia: Wat Nokor near the town features well-preserved 11th century Khmer architecture.