If you’d like to get a sense of Old Siam, then take a tip and go explore the historical park at Kamphaeng Phet rather than the one at Sukhothai.
Though Sukhothai’s sights are impressive, it’s difficult to let your imagination run back through centuries when you’re surrounded by swarms of camera-toting tourists, as is the case at Sukhothai. By contrast, Kamphaeng Phet only gets a trickle of visitors.
Kamphaeng Phet Historical Park is divided into two sections; one that sits adjacent to the new town, and a large, forested area to the north of town with dozens of evocative ruins. This second, bigger area with temples like Wat Chang Rop and Wat Phra Non is generally very quiet with just a few visitors talking in hushed tones.
Tucked away behind the historical park in town, the National and Regional Museums stand side by side, the latter housed in a classic traditional wooden building set on high stilts.
The new quarter of the city is home to the night market, where authentic local treats such as fried grasshoppers and silkworms await adventurous gourmands. Also not to be missed is sampling the province’s locally-grown ‘egg’ bananas (small, sweet and bright yellow in color). This variety is so loved that it is the focus of an ‘Egg banana Festival’ each September, when local beauties vie for the title of ‘Miss Egg Banana’.
This small town is located on east bank of the Ping River, though there are residential areas on the west bank too. To the west of the town are lush wooded mountains and several national parks, while the eastern area is made up of riverine flatlands. It’s about 100km southwest of Sukhothai and 358kms from Bangkok
The new town consists of a few north-south roads organized in a one-way system, and though the streets are narrow, the traffic rarely gets congested. The night market is a major landmark, occupying a huge covered area beside the river, and the historical park is located to the north of the town center. Most hotels are located in the town center, as are many restaurants, though one of the best places for foreigners to stay, Three J Guest House, is a few blocks to the east.
Where to Go
- Kamphaeng Phet Historical Park: a wonderland of crumbling temples, such as Wat Chang Rob and Wat Phra Non, sheltered by dense woodland.
- Kamphaeng Phet National Museum: houses ancient items from several eras.
- Kamphaeng Phet Regional Museum: has few exhibits but a lovely setting.
- San Phra Isuan: a shrine to Shiva with a strange tale behind it.
- Wat Phra Borommathat: this temple has a huge, Burmese-style chedi.
Things to Do
The main attraction is the historical park, of which many people only see the town section as it’s easy to walk around. However, the forest section to the north of town is very atmospheric and could keep you spellbound for hours, so it’s definitely worth spending time there.
To learn more about the town’s long history as a satellite town of Sukhothai, pay a visit to the national museum, and if you’re not templed out, there are a few more modern, attractive temples in the new town.
As the town receives few foreign tourists, there are few restaurants outside the hotels that have an English menu, but it’s much more fun to head to the night market after dark and eat alongside the locals at simple tables amid the throng.
Getting There
The only way to get to Kamphaneg Phet on public transport is by bus. Regular services leave Bangkok’s Northern bus station for the 6-hour trip. If driving yourself, follow Highway 32 to Nakhon Sawan, then Highway 1 to Kamphaeng Phet. The nearest airport is in Sukhothai, but flights to Bangkok are infrequent and it’s about a 3-hour driveaway.
Regular buses depart from Bangkok’s Mochit (Northern) Bus Station every day for the 6-hour journey to Kamphaeng Phet. Coming from the capital by car, take Highway 32 to Nakhon Sawan, passing Ayutthaya, Ang Thong and Sing Buri, then proceed along Highway 1 to Kamphaeng Phet. There’s a small airport north of Sukhothai, but it’s about 150km away, so not much help.
Getting Around
The town center is so compact that it’s easy to walk everywhere, though if you head out to the forest section of the historical park, you’ll need (ideally) a bicycle or (less ideally) a motorbike to get around as the ruins are spread over a wide area.
Where to Eat
There’s no shortage of restaurants in Kamphaeng Phet, but few places have an English menu, so it’s a good idea to carry a phrase book with you in case you chance upon somewhere you’d like to try. In any case, there are loads of foodshops that display their offerings in trays out front, where all you need to do is point at your selection.
For a fun experience, it’s difficult to beat dining in the covered night market beside the Ping River. It seems that half the town’s population turns up here each evening, either to eat at simple stalls or to take home a few prepared dishes in plastic bags.
If you want a smart ambience, you’ll have to settle for one of the hotel restaurants, but if you’re more concerned with good taste than a fancy setting, try one of the following places.
Where to Party
For such a small town, Kamphaeng Phet has an abundance of night spots, including nightclubs in all the big hotels and bars featuring live music. There’s a particular concentration of bars along Bumrungrat Road near the Eagle Pub, but you might want to check prices first as some bars have been known to overcharge foreign customers.
Where to Shop
Though you really should taste the yummy ‘egg’ bananas for which Kamphaeng Phet is famed, they’re not exactly the ideal gift to take home with you. Since there’s no other local product that the town is known for, nor any gift shops as such, you’d be advised to wait and do your shopping elsewhere.
Need to Know
- Worth it? Absolutely; probably the best place in the country to get a sense of Old Siam.
- What to do: wander round moss-covered, crumbling temples in the forest and imagine how it was 700 years ago.
- Best time to go: the cool season between November and February brings the freshest weather, but the forest ruins are much more attractive in the rainy season (June to October).
- How long? A couple of days should be enough to explore Kamphaeng Phet Historical Park, unless you get fixated, in which case you could easily be here a week.