Eastern Cambodia

Farther up the Mekong River are ecotourism opportunities in Kratie and Stung Treng, the latter of which lies near the Laos border. Farther east, towards the Vietnam border, are the remote provinces of Ratanakiri and Mondulkiri, which have populations consisting primarily of minority hill-tribe groups. Nature lovers and wildlife enthusiasts will enjoy seeing the Irrawaddy Dolphins in the Mekong, experiencing elephants in Mondulkiri, and exploring the remote and undeveloped Virachey National Park in Ratanakiri Province.

Most destinations in Eastern Cambodia require a long road voyage out and back via the roads by which you came; there are no operational airports out this way and the lone border crossing open to foreigners is the one with Laos via Stung Treng. As trips out to Mondulkiri and Ratanakiri are essentially one-way journeys (unless you have an off-road motorbike and a guide to lead you between the two provinces) you should plan at least a week to fully appreciate either. Once you are floating in the idyllic Yak Laom volcanic crater lake, however, you will be glad you made the voyage!

Eastern Cambodia includes everything east of the Mekong River including numerous riverside cites and the provinces east and north towards the Laos and Vietnam borders. Most visitors do not have the time to venture into the East, choosing to visit either the south (Phnom Penh and the beaches) or west (Siem Reap and Angkor Wat). Eastern Cambodia has always been a geographically remote area, and remains something of a refuge of exotic wildlife, beautiful landscapes, and diverse ethnic minority tribes. 

For many visitors to the east, Ratanakiri is the ultimate destination; A mountainous province in the far northeast, Ratanakiri offers many eco-tourism attractions, including unspoiled forests, exotic hill tribes, and wildlife in its still natural habitat. The most well known destination in the province is Yeak Laom Volcanic Lake. Despite improvements in Camboidan roads, getting to Ratanakiri is still time consuming, though visitors can break up the voyage with a stop in Kratie and Stung Treng, both of which are located along the way there (and back as the voyage generally requires you to return the way you came). Despite the challenge of getting there, Ban Lung, the capital of Ratanakiri province, has a rapidly growing tourism infrastructure and features many hotels and even a few little bars and interesting shops that cater to visitors.

Bordering Ratanakiri province to the south is Mondulkiri province, the most remote and least populated province in the country. The dramatic scenery, quite different from any other in Cambodia, is what primarily attracts visitors to this area. Visitors also come to Mondulkiri to seek out the ethnic minorities that live there, although the ‘minority’ groups actually constitute a majority of the population in the province. The capital city, Sen Monorom, is now more easily accessible thanks to a sealed road that was completed around 2010 and offers a growing number of places to stay, eat, etc as a result of the road. Otherwise, the ‘city’ is really the lone base for tourist excursions, including visits to waterfalls, tribal villages, and a wonderful elephant camp.

Kratie Province lies along the Mekong River on the way up to the northeastern provinces, roughly 200 miles from Phnom Penh. Most visitors come to Kratie to try to catch a glimpse of the endangered Irrawaddy dolphin though there are also a number of eco-tourism opportunities along the majestic Mekong River that runs alongside downtown Kratie. While the dolphins are shy and visitors may not see one, it is definitely worth a try as the town is easily reached by bus and is both charming and welcoming to visitors.

Kampong Cham, Cambodia’s third largest city, serves as the gateway to the east, both figuratively and literally, as the city features the only bridge in the nation that crosses the Mekong River. Other than enjoying scenic riverside attractions, a top draw is the seasonal bamboo bridge that connects the city to a traditional farming and weaving community that lives on an island in the middle of the river. Other attractions include a number of infrequently visited ancient temples, such as the 11th century Nokor Wat, where children regularly perform traditional dances.

Compared to the relative ease of accessing major destinations of Cambodia, getting to the eastern provinces can be something of an ordeal. Most visitors will take either a bus or a rental car (with driver) from Phnom Penh. There are no operational airports in this region and the only way to travel is by road (or with a spirit of adventure, by boat). Although the provincial cities are generally safe, visitors should take the usual precautions when traveling in remote areas. It is important to hire a guide, join a tour, or make good preparations for venturing off the beaten path.

Cities

• Banlung: Ratanakiri Province’s capital is home to a dozen distinct ethnic minority groups and some of Cambodia’s premier natural attractions. 
• Kratie: A day trip to the temples of Sambor and dolphin watching in nearby Kampi village are Kratie’s main attractions, though there are ecotourism opportunities along the Mekong River.
• Sen Monorom: Adventurous travelers love the Elephant Valley project, though the Bunong Hill villages near Sen Monorom make interesting day-trip attractions.
• Stung Treng: A border town for those going to/from Laos, Stung Treng features a weaving co-operative and home-stay ecotourism along the Mekong River (with dolphins!)
• Sen Monorom: Something like a frontier town from the American west, the largest province with the smallest in population, offers unique culture and geography
• Kampong Cham: Cambodia’s third largest city doesn’t include a wealth of attractions, but is both scenic and offers a taste of non-touristy Cambodian life.

Islands & Beaches

• Koh Paen: A ferry services the traditional villages on this Mekong River island in the rainy season, while a bamboo toll bridge for foot and bicycle traffic is rebuilt each dry season.

National Parks

• Virachey National Park: one of Cambodia’s largest and most unspoiled national parks, spanning the northern parts of Stung Treng and Ratanakiri provinces. 
• Beng Per Wildlife Sanctuary: elephants, deer, cattle, and ancient archaeological sites can all be found in this sanctuary in Cambodia’s northern plains.
• Lomphat Wildlife Sanctuary: dozens of endangered wildlife species roam freely in this enormous wildlife sanctuary straddling the eastern Cambodian provinces of Kratie, Ratanakiri, and Mondulkiri.
• Mondulkiri Protected Forest: this forest belongs to one of Southeast Asia’s biggest protected landmasses; it borders three other Cambodian wildlife sanctuaries as well as Vietnam’s Yok Don National Park.
• Phnom Nam Lyr Wildlife Sanctuary: this eastern Cambodian wildlife sanctuary is situated in the southeastern portion of Mondulkiri Province.
• Phnom Prich Wildlife Sanctuary: this is one of many protected areas bordering Mondulkiri Protected Forest.

Other Destinations

• Yeak Laom Volcanic Lake: the local population considers both the volcanic crater lake, formed over 700,000 years ago, and its surrounding area to be sacred. You will too.
• Phnom Sombok: torture scenes of Buddhist hell are painted on the walls of this temple on a hill just north of Kratie.
• Sambor: a 100 column temple named Wat Sorsor Muoy Roi is just one of the impressive structures belonging to this ancient settlement near the Mekong River, just north of Kratie.
• Wat Roka Kandal: this carefully restored ancient pagoda lies on the river just south of Kratie, offering excellent traditional souvenir shopping and occasionally overnight stays.
• Kampi: this village north of Kratie is the best place to see the area’s rare Irrawaddy dolphins, of which fewer than 80 remain.

Getting between provincial capitals is fairly easy as there are daily busses, minivans, and taxis covering these routes regularly. That said, from Kampong Cham it is a one-way voyage to Kratie, Stung Treng, and Ratanakiri that you must back-track unless continuing on to Laos. Likewise, it is a one-way journey to Mondulkiri; you must return the way you came unless you are traveling on an off-road motorcycle with a guide who knows the ‘road’ connecting Sen Monorom and Ban Lung.