One of the most enjoyable ways to explore Chiang Mai’s old city is on foot, and this walk takes you along narrow, winding lanes and through tranquil temple compounds as you cross from the northeast to southwest corner.
It’s best to go in the morning, when the sun sparkles on the east-facing temple facades. Dress appropriately for temple visits, meaning no exposed knees or shoulders, and wear a hat or carry an umbrella to shield you from the sun or rain. A local map will help with orientation.
Begin on the outside of the moat at Sri Phum in the northeast corner of the old city. Notice the way the lines of brickwork on the north-facing wall have become wonderfully warped. Facing the bastion, walk southwards beside the moat, then cross to the inside of the moat at the first road and continue walking south beside a parade of shops. After a few steps you’ll be at the entrance to Somphet Market at Moonmuang Soi 6, where vendors of flowers, fruits and tempting snacks set up stall.
Turn right into Soi 6, a narrow lane lined with guest houses and cafes; this is the heart of Chiang Mai’s backpacker district, so you’ll probably see as many foreigners as Thais wandering around. At the end of Soi 6, turn right in to Ratchaphakhinai Road. Walk past Wat Lamchang on your right, and after a few more steps, you will see Wat Chiang Man on your left. This is the oldest temple in the city and dates back to 1296.
Take a look inside the viharn on the right which contains some highly revered Buddha images, then walk round the back of the viharn to see the oldest and most interesting aspect of this temple—a stupa called the Chedi Chang Lom. Leave the temple by the side gate to the south of the compound, turn right, then left into Phra Pokklao Road.
Walk about 100 metres to the traffic light, then cross the street to the Three Kings’ Monument, situated in an open square. King Mengrai, who founded the city in 1296, is in the centre of the monument and is flanked by his allies, King Ramkhamhaeng and King Ngam Muang. The alliance that Mengrai forged with these leaders of neighbouring kingdoms allowed his own Kingdom of Lanna to flourish in its early years. Behind the Three Kings’ Monument, a colonial-style shuttered building houses the Arts & Cultural Centre (open Tues—Sun 8.30am-5pm; admission 90 baht), which is well worth visiting to find out more about the city’s long history and complex culture.
Continue walking south on Phra Pokklao Road, and after crossing Ratchadamnoen Road, almost immediately on your right you will see the dark-wood walls of Wat Pan Tao, with a lovely glass-inlaid carving of a peacock above the doors, which gleams when caught by the morning sun. Walk on a few steps and turn right into the compound of Wat Chedi Luang. In front of you is the enormous viharn, and to your left is Chiang Mai’s City Pillar, located in a cruciform building beneath a towering gum tree (local legend has it that as long as this tree stands, the city is safe from harm). Behind the viharn is the temple’s main feature, a huge brick chedi built in the 15th century, that once stood 90 metres high until it was damaged by an earthquake in the mid-16th century. It is still an impressive structure and is now about 60 metres high.
Walk round behind the chedi and go out the back gate of Wat Chedi Luang, turn right on to Jhaban Road and then left on to Ratchadamnoen Road. Walk on to Wat Phra Singh, which stands prominently at the end of Ratchadamnoen Road. On your right as you enter the compound is the exquisite scripture library, one of the finest examples of Northern Thai architecture, consisting of a wooden building on a tall base that is surrounded by stucco angels.
The main viharn is large and imposing, but of more interest is the smaller viharn, set back to the left of the main building. This is the Viharn Lai Kham, which is definitely worth a look inside after appreciating its gleaming bargeboards and beautifully-carved gables. The building contains the Phra Sihing, the city’s most highly revered Buddha image, and some fascinating murals depicting local lifestyle in bygone days.
Follow the path to the left of the Viharn Lai Kham and leave the temple by the back gate. Turn left and head straight south along Ratchamanka Soi 9. At the end of this lane, turn left and after a few steps go right into Wat Muen Ngern Kong, one of the city’s lesser-known temples. Note the colourful figurines along the side of the viharn, then take a look at the huge reclining Buddha on the south side of the compound. Just to the left of this image is a bo tree, characterized by heart-shaped leaves, with a smaller sitting Buddha image beneath it. Look for a narrow alley behind the bo tree and follow it between back gardens and out to a quiet lane.
Turn right here and follow the lane to the left as it winds its way southward, crossing several other lanes. Soon on the left you will see a very unusual, stepped brick chedi in the compound of Wat Phuak Hong, which has seven rounded tiers containing Buddha images in niches and dates back to the early 16th century. The small, compact viharn, with its red and gold gables, is also very attractive, though the hall is not always open.
Continue walking south a few steps until you see a gateway leading into a park on your right. This is the back entrance to Buak Haad City Park, which is the only public park anywhere near the centre of Chiang Mai. At weekends it can get crowded, but on a weekday it is usually quiet and relaxing, so it makes a fitting place to end this stroll through the Old City.