Situated on the northern Thai border, just across the Mekong River from its counterpart, the Lao town of Huay Xai, Chiang Khong is above all known as a popular border crossing for independent travelers and backpackers heading to Laos.
Because it’s so far from anywhere and there’s little to do in town, travelers tend to arrive in the evening and leave the next morning to Laos.
At present, everyone crosses the river by ferry (20B for foot passengers), but a new bridge will be completed by late 2012 or 2013 that will enable traffic to flow freely between Yunnan Province in China and Thailand. Once in Huay Xai, travelers have a choice of taking a slow or fast boat downstream to Luang Prabang or a flight to the capital of Laos, Vientiane.
Chiang Khong consists basically of a single street running along the river’s southern bank, which is lined with several small restaurants, backpacker cafés and guesthouses. There are a few temples and a market, making Chiang Khong a typical little Thai town without any night life.
Despite its small size, Chiang Khong is well-known to most Thais as the place where pla buk (giant catfish) are sometimes caught in April or May. Sadly, however, the species has been driven almost to extinction, though there is a breeding center at Ban Hat Krai, just south of town, that has had a measure of success.
Though there’s little to do in town, the surrounding countryside is very attractive, and most hotels and guest houses can arrange visits to nearby hilltribe villages or waterfalls if you’d like to explore this remote corner of the country.
Where to Go
- Ban Hat Khrai: Home of the giant catfish
- Wat Luang: Chiang Khong’s oldest and most colorful temple.
- Nationalist Chinese Soldiers Cemetery: a reminder of battles between Communist and Nationalist troops in China.
When to Go
The best weather in Chiang Khong comes during November-February, as the temperatures are comfortable and humidity lower than the rest of the year; this is also the best time to enjoy the boat ride from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang.
The hot season (March-June) can be uncomfortable, so you might want to go for an air-conditioned room then, while the rain season brings daily storms but the town is refreshingly quiet, as there are fewer travelers passing through.
Getting There
The only way to get to Chiang Khong from anywhere in Thailand is by bus, though travelers arriving from Laos will travel by boat to Huay Xai and then cross the river to Chiang Khong. There are bus services here from Bangkok, Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai and in high season it is also possible to take a minibus from Pai directly to Chiang Khong.
Every 30 minutes, buses arrive at Chiang Khong from Chiang Rai and other main cities in northern Thailand. One daytime and five overnight buses depart directly from the Northern Bus Terminal in Bangkok (Mor Chit) every day, the journey taking 14 hours. The closest air facility is Chiang Rai Airport, which can be reached from Bangkok International Airport in 1 hour, 30 minutes.
Getting Around
In this one-street town it’s almost impossible to get lost and walking up and down the main street is the best way to get around. However, if you want to visit either Ban Hat Krai or the Nationalist Chinese Soldiers’ Cemetery, you’ll need to hire the services of a motorbike taxi. Since these are not common in this small town, it’s advisable to ask staff at your hotel to contact one.
Where to Stay
Visitors to Chiang Khong are a mix of mostly backpackers on their way to Laos and a few urban Thais exploring the far-flung corners of their homeland. The accommodation on offer is thus geared to budget and mid-range travelers. Most budget places are pretty similar, with tiny rooms, paper-thin walls and shared bathrooms, though those mentioned below are a cut above the rest.
Needless to say, views of the Mekong River are the main attraction here, but since most hotels and guest houses are right by the river, these are not difficult to find. In some cases, rooms with superior views are more expensive.
If like many Thai travelers, you are looking for a rural idyll, it’s worth considering Rai Saeng Arun, a remote but stylish resort with well-tended vegetable gardens;
Where to Eat
Some guest houses and most resorts have their own restaurant, so there are plenty of choices for a romantic meal looking over the river. There are also several cafes and simple restaurants along Sai Klang Road where you can grab a breakfast or coffee if your guest house doesn’t serve it.
Where to Party
Chiang Khong is a tiny town and most people are tucked up in bed by 9pm, so there’s nothing to speak of in terms of nightlife. Most travelers spend their last evening in Thailand reminiscing about their experiences in the country or planning their time in Laos. However, during the high season (Nov-Feb), some cafes and restaurants may stay open later if there enough customers ordering drinks and exchanging travel tales.
Where to Shop
Nobody goes to Chiang Khong for the shopping, though there are a few shops along the main road (Sai Klang Road) that sell jackets and shoulder bags in bright designs using hilltribe textiles. If you want to buy some souvenirs of Thailand before heading on to Laos, Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai is your best bet.
Need to Know
- Worth it? Not unless you intend to travel to Laos.
- What to do: visit a waterfall or a hilltribe village, unwind by the Mekong River.
- Best time to go: during the dry season from November to April, particularly on April 18 when the Giant Catfish Festival takes place.
- How long? A day or less is sufficient for Chiang Khong.