Chao Say Thevoda is a small, relatively charming temple that is less impressive than thommonon, which lies opposite it along the Victory Road, but has undergone somewhat controversial restoration in recent years that adds an interesting element to the temple: a large number of replacement stones that feature partial bas-relief carvings.
Restoration of Chao Say Thevoda by a team of Chinese experts began in 2000. The restoration project has been controversial, as it has included newly fabricated stones and a complete rebuilding of affected areas. While earlier restorations of other temples, such as that of neighboring Thommonon, have employed replacement stones, those at Chao Say Thevoda include new bas-relief carvings. Despite the controversy, the reconstruction was eventually agreed to by UNESCO.
Of similar design to Thommanon, Chao Say Tevoda began during the rule of Suryavarman II and was continued by Yasovarman II, including the addition of two libraries and ornate monumental gateways (gopuras). Jayavarman VII added Buddhist decorative elements to the temple’s Hindu relief-carved decoration during his religious transformation of the state from Hinduism to Buddhism.
Although much of the original structure has disappeared, leaving only the central buildings, the four gopura and the libraries, the style of the unique carvings of devatas (sacred female images) is well worth a detour to Chao Say Tevoda. The Siem Reap River, several hundred meters away, can be reached by the temple’s eastern walkway.
Orientation
The parking area for Chao Say Thevoda is to the north of the temple, so it is best to walk around to the east (your left) and ascend the raised causeway that is preceded by square boundary markers and a cruciform terrace, guarded by lions and enclosed by naga balustrades.
Once through the entry tower proceed towards the mandapa, or entry chamber, and the central sanctuary. From the central sanctuary, explore the exterior of this tower and the libraries on either side of it, where you will find both original and replacement carvings of devatas (female deities) and bas-relief frontons.
Need to Know
- What is it: A recently restored Hindu temple
- When to visit: Chao Say Thevoda is fine to visit any season or time of day
- Nearest Town: Siem Reap
- King: Suryavarman II, Yasovarman II, and Jayavarman VII
- Date: 11th century - mid 12th century
- Religion: Hinduism
- Artistic Style: Angor Wat