The Slovak capital hasn’t always been so Slovak, what with the shuffling of empires from the Ottoman Turks to the Hapsburgs to the Nazis to the reluctant annexation into Czechoslovakia. Bratislava has only been able to really stand on its own since Slovakia gained independence. Today, this low-key capital has quietly been rallying the troops and the old town has been restored to its former splendor with rejuvenated buildings and many new restaurants and watering holes.
Straddling the famous blue Danube, the city is clearly separated into the old and new towns. The new town is where the post-communist optimism was channeled, and modern Bratislava is pushing hard in a competitive European marketplace. For those here as tourists, the old town is where you’ll want to be, with its Old World charms, local cuisine and down-to-earth people. In the new town, you may feel something isn’t quite right when you look around and realize you are one of few taking holiday snapshots.
Although Bratislava is changing rapidly in the new Europe, it still retains a laid-back character and is good for a relaxing city getaway. You really get the feel you’re in Eastern Europe with the castles on the hills, the turrets and the cobblestone walkways. It’s a bit skimpy on landmarks, but this lends nicely to a feeling of understated simplicity, and less pressure to dart around town to see everything. Just walking through the pedestrian streets and alleyways is enough for the atmosphere to engulf you completely.
Highlights
Bratislava Castle: surprise, surprise – a castle on a hill overlooking the old town. Still, would sheer spite keep you from exploring it?
Devin Castle: these ruins, perched by the Austrian border, have proven to be very telling for archaeologists, and very scenic for the avid hiker.
Old Town Hall: in the picturesque main square stands the Old Town Hall. It’s stoic, and wise, but not exactly formidable.
Slovak National Gallery: in a city with this much history, a visit to the national gallery is well worth the admission.