The largest temple-pyramid constructed by the kings’ of Angkor, Baphuon collapsed under its own weight.
Now almost finally reconstructed, don’t forget to wander around the back to see the outline of a reclining Buddha that was attempted in the 16th century.
Constructed more than 100 years before the city of Angkor Thom was built around it, Baphuon, the Mt. Meru inspired state temple of Udayadityavarman II, was one of the largest structures erected in the Angkor era. Described by Chinese emissary Zhao Daguan as ‘the Tower of Bronze’, the Baphuon once featured five stone tiers that rose to a height of 24m, upon which may have stood a wooden structure covered in bronze that towered 50m above the ground.
While imposing in its day, the Baphuon collapsed under its own weight before French explorers discovered Angkor in the 19th century. After lying in ruins for centuries, the Baphuon was disassembled in the 1960’s and its approximately 300,000 stones were labeled for renovation using anastylosis, whereby missing or damaged pieces would be replaced with new ones. Unfortunately, during the Cambodian civil war, the renovation effort was abandoned for 25 years; reconstruction continues to this day, with collaboration by some of the original participants to reassemble the world’s largest ‘jigsaw puzzle’.
Orientation
The eastern entrance to Baphuon, the direction towards which the temple is oriented, is located a few minutes walk to the northwest of the Bayon. From Baphuon you can access the Royal Palace Enclosure and visit the Elephant Terrace and Terrace of the Leper King as part of a nice walking tour. Before departing from Bayon you may wish to ask your driver to pick you up at the Terrace of the Leper King around 1 hour later.
Its best to begin your visit at the remains of the eastern gopura (entry tower), from which a unique 200 m long elevated causeway leads towards the Baphuon. Passing large ponds on either side, the causeway features a cruciform pavilion at the center that was once decorated with bas-relief carvings upon small, vertically oriented panels. This style of bas-relief carvings, nearly all of which were removed for the reconstruction of the temple, is unique to Baphuon. The best examples of these relief carvings can be found behind the temple, on the western gopura, which you can visit after you walk around the outside of the temple.
Before walking around to the rear of the temple however, you may ascend the stairs to the first terrace of Baphuon, where a wooden structure has been erected to house information regarding the reconstruction effort. The rest of the temple is closed to the public. After visiting the first terrace, you may proceed around the temple to the south (your left while facing the temple).
Other than finding and appreciating the remaining bas-relief panels on the exterior of the western gopura, the most interesting aspect of the western side of Baphuon is the enormous reclining Buddha that was built from the rubble of the collapsed temple in the 16th century. Facing east from the rear of the temple the head of the Buddha lies to your left.
Continuing around to the northern side of the Baphuon, there is a small doorway in the enclosure wall of the Royal Palace grounds on your left that leads directly to the Phimeanakas. You can visit the Royal Palace grounds and then exit east to the main platform of the Elephant Terrace, finally walking north to the Terrace of the Leper King, where your tuk tuk can meet you perhaps an hour later.
Need to Know
- What is it: The State Temple of Udayadityavarman and the world’s largest ‘jigsaw puzzle”.
- When to visit: The Baphuon is best visited after Bayon, on a tour of Angkor Thom.
- Nearest Town: Siem Reap
- Don’t Miss: The reclining Buddha on the rear of the temple.
- King: Udayadityavarman II
- Date: 1060
- Religion: Hinduism
- Artistic Style: Baphuon