Banteay Chhmar is a small commune of 14 villages in the northwest of Cambodia’s Banteay Meanchey Province, which borders Thailand in Cambodia’s northwest.

The commune’s biggest attraction is the temple of Banteay Chhmar temple, which is located in the center of 14 villages, a number of which offer CCBEN Banteay Chhmar. In addition to the charming villages, there are several smaller temples that are worthy of visit in their own right.

The massive temple of Banteay Chhmar, one of the largest and least visited archaeological complexes from the Angkor period, has an Indiana Jones / Tomb Raider atmosphere; the sprawling complex that lies within a moat 2 km by 2.5 km, includes a number of crumbling satellite shrines and a few stunning bas-relief carvings. The temple was commissioned by the great Jayavarman VII, who is responsible for Angkor Thom, Bayon, and many other temples around Angkor and throughout Cambodia.

Other nearby attractions include the ruins of Banteay Top and Prasat Ta Phrom, both also consigned by Jayavarman VII, and the nearby Saurus Crane Sanctuary at Ang Trapeang Thmor - Saurus Crane Reserve.

During the dry season months (December to April), when the roads are in good condition, Banteay Chhmar is located within day-trip distance of Siem Reap, though it is best visited with an overnight stop in a CCBEN Banteay Chhmar at the village adjacent to the temple.

Buses run to Banteay Chhmar from Siem Reap, although its remoteness, along some seasonally impassible roads, makes it a long and arduous trip. You will also need transport to get to the temple from the town. The nearest international airport is in Siem Reap to the southeast.

Home stays are practically your only option for staying overnight in Banteay Chhmar. Rooms in houses are rudimentary, but comfortable. As each house is slightly different, experiences will vary, though houses are generally clean have electricity and running water.

The Community Based Tourism (CBT) initiative in Banteay Chhmar was created in 2006 in order to develop secondary economic activities for and increase the incomes of some of the poorest families in Cambodia.

Members of the Banteay Chhmar community have been trained to provide tourists with home stay opportunities in typical Khmer Houses. During a stay with local villagers, visitors can eat local meals, visit of the temple of Banteay Chhmar, learn about local handicraft and agricultural projects, and experience rural life with CBT members guiding visitors and introducing them to the population.

All proceeds from tourism revenue go directly to the members of Banteay Chhmar CBT: 70% to CBT members and the villagers that provide services and 30% to a local fund to support CBT operating costs and community activities.

Homestays for 1 or 2 per household ($7)

  • What to do: check out Banteay Chhmar Temple and the many villages.
  • Best time to go: head to Banteay Chhmar sometime December through March to be sure of dry weather.
  • How long? Half a day is enough to check out Banteay Chhmar Temple.
  • Trivia: Banteay Chhmar has been listed by the World Monuments Fund as an endangered site due to severe looting at the remote temple complex.