Ban Lung is a medium-sized town in northeastern Cambodia; once a middle-of-nowhere town with exclusively dirt roads and extremely few visitors, Ban Lung is now almost fully paved and is connected to the Vietnamese border by the only sealed portion of Road 78 (as well as by electric and fiber-optic cables).
This access to the border and the trade that comes with it (along with the continuing development of large-scale mining operations by foreign interests) has led to a building boom in Ban Lung that has included many new hotels and guesthouses for visitors who are coming in increasing numbers as a result of the newer roads (and therefore shorter travel times).
Despite the recently paved roads, Ban Lung still exudes a dusty, “wild-west” gold-rush town vibe. This is in part due to the long, flat, dusty ride required to get to the town, in part from its trade in precious stones (not gold per se) that has fueled its growth and lured poor villagers into the town to find a slice of the economic pie, and perhaps because the relatively wide boulevards of downtown Ban Lung are relatively empty of traffic giving it a still-quiet vibe.
Within the town itself are only a few attractions worthy of note: the ban-lung-market is interesting for both its goldsmiths and stone cutters/setters, and a hilltop reclining-buddha that is both peaceful and scenic. Most people come to Ban Lung to explore the attractions that surround the town, particularly the volcanic crater lakes, yak-laom-lake and lum-kut-lake and the many waterfalls, all of which are in half-day-trip distance from the city center.
Those with more time in Rattankiri can organize trips to virachey-national-park from the National Park office in Ban Lung, or trips to tribal villages, such as voen-sai.
Most guesthouses can help organize trips around town or into the countryside, though the local tourism office, which is located a few blocks east of the ‘naga roundabout’ in the center of town is particularly helpful by Cambodian standards.
Orientation
Ban Lung is a relatively small town that was built up around the central market, where the bus station and most of the hotels were formerly located. Since the relocation of the bus station to the west of town, the opening of the border with Vietnam, and the construction of a sealed road past Yak Laom Lake towards Vietnam, the town has expanded.
Consequently, the lowest priced (and lowest quality) guesthouses tend to be located in the center of town, near the Town Market and the “Ban Lung Roundabout” intersection with the entwined naga statues. Around “the Lakeside”, a few blocks farther north, are several 3 and 4-star hotels, while the remainder of the hotels are out towards yak-laom-lake, a 10-minute motorbike ride from central Ban Lung.
Now that the town is hosting an increasing number of tourists, more facilities are opening up to cater to them. That said, these services are mostly provided by savvy guesthouse owners and there isn’t that much tourism infrastructure beyond what the guesthouses are providing.
A couple of exceptions to this are the Ban Lung Tourism Office (just west of the Ban Lung Roundabout), which is regularly open and staffed by English-speaking locals who can give you a map of the town and help you find your way to the nearby attractions (typically with a rental motorbike); the other is a small group of private tour guides, such as the over-eager Mr Keo Sona ([email protected]) who can show you around the area for a reasonable price.
Where to Go
- Ban Lung Market: A local market in the heart of Ban Lung, offering a mix of fresh produce, traditional crafts, and a glimpse into the daily life of the indigenous people of Ratanakiri.
- Phnom Svay Reclining Buddha: A buddhist temple with a hilltop reclining Buddha image and an excellent viewpoint overlooking the town.
Outside Town
- Virachay National Park: One of the most unspoiled areas of Cambodia, featuring tribal villages and unknown numbers of wild elephants, tigers, and other exotic wildlife.
- Voen Sai Tribal Villages: A variety of rural, ethnic and tribal groups who continue to practice traditional lifestyles
- Yeak Laom Lake: Spectacular freshwater lake within a circular, dormant volcanic crater, surrounded by jungle.
- Lum Kut Lake: A larger, more remote, but less scenic volcanic crater lake than more convenient Yak Laom Lake.
- Cha Ong Waterfall: The largest waterfall near Ban Lung, but the least suitable for swimming.
- Katieng & Ka Chhanh Waterfalls: two of the most accessible waterfalls; suitable for swimming and riding elephants!
- O’Sinlear Waterfall: A cascading, multi-tiered waterfall and popular local picnic site.
- Bo Keo: The border town with Vietnam is also the center of the gem and mineral mining operations in Ratanakiri.
- Lumphat: A quiet riverside town in Ratanakiri Province, known for its proximity to Virachey National Park and as a gateway to eco-tourism and wildlife adventures.
When to Go
Its best to be in Ban Lung in the dry season months betweenNovember and March, though as March approaches the increasing heat and dust can become too much to bear and the waterfalls are far less impressive.
Things to Do
The main attractions in Ban Lung are the Ban Lung Market and the Phnom Svay Reclining Buddha atop Phnom Svay.
Just outside of town, and accessible by either bicycle or motorbike, are Yeak Laom Lake and a largen number of stunning waterfalls, including Katieng and Ka Chhanh Waterfalls, O’Sinlear Waterfall, and Cha Ong Waterfall.
One of the area’s most popular waterfalls is O’Sinlear Waterfall, which is one of Ratanakiri district’s top tourist attractions. This stunning waterfall consists of four tiers and makes for excellent photographs, especially when snapped from a distance. Visitors are welcome to swim in the cool waters here, and this is also a popular picnic spot.
Located just eight kilometers to the west of Ban Lung, Cha Ong Waterfall is an ideal daytrip destination. Believed to be one of the highest waterfalls in the entire province, this is a great place to relax and unwind for a while.
Nearby is the stunning Katieng Waterfall, which flows all year round. This is a popular spot with bird watchers, as a number of different species come to bathe here. Visitors can also take elephant rides through the jungle from this spot.
Farther from town are a few other waterfalls, Lum Kut Lake (a less visited volcanic crater lake), and the smaller towns of Lumphat and Bo Keo, the latter of which is located near the region’s most accessible mining operations and is the gateway to Vietnam.
While the sight of Teuk Chruos Pram Pil Chhan’s seven tiers is simply stunning, getting to these falls can be rather challenging and visitors would be best off joining a tour from Ban Lung. There are a number of guided tours available, some of which take in several of the area’s waterfalls in the same day.
For those interested in the tribal ethnic groups and the natural beauty of Ratanakiri, visitors can make day trips to the ethnic villages of Voen Sai Tribal Villages or multi-day trips into Virachay National Park.
Getting There
Although Ban Lung has a small airfield, there are no longer commercial flights servicing it. The long and bumpy road from Stung Treng (226 km/ 140 miles) is the only practical way in and out of Ban Lung; the ride takes around 3 to 4 hours in a bus or minivan (depending on road conditions). Add another 6-7 hours if heading to or from Phnom Penh.
While a minivan is likely to shave hours off your travel time between Phnom Penh or Kratie and Ban Lung, being crammed in a little van with lots of people and supplies can be punishing. The best plan is to break up your trip with stops in Kratie and/or Stung Treng along the way, provided you save enough time to spend a few days relaxing in Ban Lung for all the time and effort to get out there.
Ban Lung is located 636 km from Phnom Penh. It is possible to get to Ban Lung directly from Phnom Penh (7-9 hours by minivan, 10-12 hours by bus), a frightening thought, though a return voyage to Phnom Penh might make you consider doing this in at least one direction. Otherwise, you are better off breaking up your trip with a stop in Kratie and/or Stung Treng, both worthy of at least a day, if not several. To/from Ban Lung and Steng Treng in a minivan or bus is 3-4 hours, and straight through to Kratie takes 5-6 hours (dry season times; for rainy season maybe add a couple more hours).
Departing Ban Lung, busses head out for all destinations between 6:30 and 7:30 am. Fares range from 6 to 13 dollars for voyages to Stung Treng and Siem Reap respectively. (The voyage all the way to/from Siem Reap takes around 12-14 hours, only slightly longer than the bus to/from Phnom Penh as the bus stops less frequently; great if you can sit on a Cambodian bus for 12+ straight hours)
Busses had been arriving and departing from in front of the Ban Lung Market, but a new terminal about a mile west of town should be open by the end of 2011. Without having arranged pick-up from your hotel, your only option will be a motorbike taxi as there are no tuktuks or cabs in this part of Cambodia. If you have lots of bags try to have your hotel arrange a pick-up although this may still be a motorbike taxi.
If you have the funds, you may consider hiring a private taxi or procuring several seats in a share taxi (as a single seat is a fraction of a seat in a sardine-packed toyota corolla or pickup truck). The private taxi is easily the most comfortable option but the fare will include a return trip for the taxi who will have to drive back alone after dropping you in Ban Lung.
Departure times and fares from Ban Lung (subject to change with new bus terminal):
- Stung Treng - Minibus - 730am - 3hours - $6
- Kratie - Bus - 630am - 6hrs - $6.5
- Vietnam - minibus 7am 2hours 7dollars
- Kampong Cham Bus 630 a 8 hours 7 dollars
- Phnom Penh Bus 630am 11hr
- Minibus 630am 9hours 12 dollars
- Siem reap bus 630am 14 hours
- Don Det minibus 730am 7 hours 14 dollars
- Don Khone minibus 730 am 7.5hrs 15 dollars
Getting Around
There aren’t a lot of transportation options for getting around Ban Lung. The town is small enough to explore on a bicycle; however, the waterfalls and Yak Laom Lake are a bit farther afield and reachable really only on decent bicycles by fairly fit riders. There are some places (including some guesthouses) that rent out motorbikes, and these are much easier for making day trips and buzzing about town. Realize however that the roads are alternatively dry and dusty or wet and slippery and always a bit bumpy, so be advised.
There are a few motodop operators hanging out around guesthouses, hotels, and other tourist venues, but far less than elsewhere in Cambodia. These drivers can be hired for one way trips or for half/full day hires at negotiable rates.
With a larger budget you can hire a private car (with driver) or go on a day trip with a tour in a van, both of which can be arranged by a few of the nicer guesthouses or through a tour agency.
You may also rent a dirt-bike for exploring the bumpy countryside more quickly, though experience on a bike will help prevent injuries, which are common among tourists unfamiliar with riding on rugged terrain. norden-house is the best place to arrange motorcycle trips around the province. Be aware that there are no modern medical facilities for hundreds of miles so ride motorbikes with extreme care!
Finally you can explore parts of Ban Lung via elephant, for around $15-20 dollars an hour. The elephants are usually found near katieng-waterfall though a few guesthouses can also arrange rides in other parts of the town.
Tip: Helmet laws are enforced around Ban Lung town and surroundings, especially along the road from town to Yak Laom.
Tip: Inspect motorbikes carefully before renting as it is not uncommon for tourists to be charged extra for minor dents or scratches to the bikes.
Where to Stay
In recent years the number of guesthouses and hotels in Ban Lung has boomed and there is now a wide range of accommodation options for visitors on any budget. Many of the older ones are located in town, which is a drawback in that there are few sights worth seeing in town, but a benefit in that its somewhat easier to arrange transportation, including bicycle or motorbike rental.
Nowadays, however, a number of the newer hotels and guesthouses catering to foreign tourists are located in more scenic parts of town (and its outskirts) and offer free (or reasonably priced) transportation to the lake and/or waterfalls, as well as bicycle and motorbike rental. The only hotel on the road to Yak Laom lake is the recommended Norden House.
Where to Eat
Most guesthouses and hotels have restaurants that serve a variety of western and asian foods and most are open to non-guests, so these are typically the restaurants that cater to western visitors. At Yak Laom Lake there are vendors selling fruit, baguettes, beef jerkey, and simple stir-fry dishes. There are a few restaurants around town, though the majority cater almost exclusively to a local clientele.
Where to Party
Ban Lung is not the most happening town for nightlife. Sunset drinks at Motel Phnom Yak Laom, Tree Top Guesthouse, or Yak Loam Hill Lodge is a good plan. Otherwise, if you want to do something after dark you should stay in a hotel that has a late-night restaurant/bar. Tree Top Guesthouse, Terre Rouge, Norden House, and Yak Lom Hill Lodge are likely to have other guests in the mood for a little late night socializing.
Alternatively, you can head down to the lake after dark and go for a late night swim. The lake isn’t ever really “closed” and sometimes locals walk around the lake to sit around small bonfires. We don’t recommend you start any fires, but think it might be foolish not to jump in the lake under a full moon provided you don’t go alone.
Where to Shop
There are several items to shop for that are Rattanakiri specialties. The nearby gold and gem mines produce the supply for a vibrant jewelry trade, and the indigenous tribal communities produce a variety of handicrafts, from scarves and handbags to clothing and musical instruments.
The Ban Lung Market has the usual array of clothing and household goods for local shoppers, but also hosts workshops for goldsmiths, stone cutters, and jewel setters. Best not to purchase gems unless you are knowledgable about them or you don’t care about getting the best stone for the best price; shopkeepers seem friendly enough to haggle amicably with you if are just looking, but may take advantage of clueless foreigners if they have the opportunity to do so.
Handicrafts can be found in better hotels and guesthouses; most are made by local people and are often supported by social enterprise organizations that aid impoverished Cambodian families. You can visit shops sponsored by Cando Crafts and CCBEN, the latter of which is located within Yak Laom Park, just by the lakeside. The Tee Da Phnom Garden also has a small selection of crafts.
Sturdy textiles are used for clothes, bags, scarves, and tablecloths (good for picnics or cards while traveling). You can pick up a local scarf (as opposed to a Krama) or handbag for around $5-7 dollars; larger pieces may exceed $20. They are often nice products made by nice, hardworking people so they usually offer fair prices.
Need to Know
- What is it: A remote provincial town with volcanic lakes, waterfalls, tribal communities, and a national park teeming with wildlife.
- What to do: Swim in a volcanic crater lake or a pool beneath a cascading waterfall; visit tribal villages; overnight trek in a remote national park.
- Who For: Nature Lovers and those interested in ethnic minority cultures.
- Trivia: Lumphat was once the capital of Ratanakiri Province, but was abandoned after suffering bombing by US warplanes during the war with Vietnam.