Few structures on Earth make a greater impression than Angkor Wat. Including the moat around the enclosed capital city and state temple of Suryavarman II, the grounds of Angkor Wat constitute the largest religious structure at Angkor, and arguably on Earth.
At the center of the temple grounds, which are surrounded by a 1.3 by 1.5 km moat, a central sanctuary 42m high housed an image of Vishnu that embodied the spirit of both god and king. Surrounding the temple, within the 200 hectare temple grounds existed a thriving metropolis of perhaps 100,000 including holy men, artisans, and dancing girls.
In honor of their King and God, whose spirits would unite within the central sanctuary upon the king’s death, nearly every stone of the temple was decorated with elaborate carvings including nearly 2,000 apsara dancers and 600 meter-long gallery walls recounting religious sagas and the greatness of Suryavarman and his mighty army.
From the moment you cross the moat and pass through the gates of the enclosure wall you will undoubtedly be overwhelmed by both the grandiosity of the temple and the intricacy of its decoration. A true wonder of the world, Angkor Wat…
Occupying almost 500 acres (200 hectares), including its moat and interior grounds, Angkor Wat can be visited in a minimum of several hours if you are on a short visit to Siem Reap and plan to spend time at the other temples; however, a more leisurely tour could take a good half-day. If you have a multi-day pass, the temple may be enjoyable to explore over multiple visits: photographing the reflecting pools at dawn’s first light, exploring the enclosed interior (including bas-relief mural galleries) at midday, walking around the inside of the moat for an afternoon picnic, or climbing the Bakan to watch the sunset.
Because of its relatively straightforward design (as opposed to Bayon, Ta Phrom, or Preah Khan) and the installation of signs explaining the bas-relief galleries, Angkor Wat can be explored without the assistance of a guide. That said, employing a competent guide could greatly enhance your understanding of Angkor Wat’s numerous features, particularly if you are only planning a single trip to the temple.
In the early 12th century, Suryavarman II ascended the throne of Angkor and consigned the construction of what would become the largest religious structure in the world. Unlike the majority of Angkorean kings who preceded him, Suryavarman II was a devotee of Vishnu (rather than Shiva) and the central sanctuary of Angkor Wat once housed an image of Vishnu as opposed to the Shiva-lingas that graced earlier state temples.
BP Groslier, Cambodian-born son of famed art historian George Groslier, suggests the best (most grammatical) interpretation of Angkor Wat as “the city that became a temple” rather than the literal “City Temple” or even “Temple City.” This also accurately reflects the fact that it was a city surrounding, and in service to a temple honoring Vishnu and was later converted to a wat, or Buddhist temple.
The name Angkor Wat is therefore relatively new: ascribed to the temple several hundred years after it was built, once Theravada Buddhism became the established state religion. Even after the fall of Angkor and the abandonment of the city, the grounds of Angkor Wat were continuously inhabited by Buddhist monks until the Khmer Rouge era. To this day Buddhist monks continue to worship within Angkor Wat; there are two, active, contemporary Buddhist temples within the Angkor Wat enclosure, which are located to the north and south of the inner causeway and temple-proper respectively.
Angkor Wat is oriented in a westward direction, a design feature that has contributed to a number of theories regarding its purpose; some believe the temple functioned as a cosmic observatory or mausoleum, the latter theory supported by the fact that the temple, which was constructed over a period of 30 to 40 years, was completed after the death of Suryavarman II and that an empty sarcophagus was recovered from the pit beneath the central sanctuary.
Further to that point, unlike those at other temples from the era, the bas-relief carvings at Angkor Wat were oriented in a counter-clockwise direction; perambulating the temple in such a manner was consistent with Hindu funerary rites. That said, the westward orientation could simply be explained by the dedication of the temple to Vishnu rather than to Shiva, the state-temples to whom were always oriented east and which arguably all also served as mausoleums of their respective kings upon their deaths.
Otherwise, it seems evident that Angkor Wat was home to a sizable population and may have featured the Royal Palace of Suryavarman, though it would have been constructed of wood and has long since perished.
Orientation
The immensity of Angkor Wat rarely fails to make a powerful first impression. Driving into Angkor Archaeological Park, visitors typically approach Angkor Wat from the south, driving along moat that surrounds the temple; across the moat, one can see only the trees on either side of a tall enclosure wall, within which the grounds of the city and the temple proper are located.
Visitors must cross a causeway, pass through the city gates, and walk along an interior causeway to access the primary temple structure, which only occupies 1/10 of the entire area. Covering around one square kilometer, the temple within the enclosure consists of three ascending levels capped by the five towers of the Bakan, representing the heavenly peaks of Mt Meru, abode of the gods: Vishnu and the posthumous Suryavarman to be precise.
Most visitors are dropped off on the western side of the temple, where a 12-meter wide, 250-meter long sandstone causeway spans the 200-meter wide moat. The terrace leading up to the causeway is flanked by naga balustrades and guardian lions, all of which are later additions by subsequent kings. Evidence of the existing causeway as a later addition is found in the employment of ‘recycled’ stones from other structures, including a pair of feet that were likely those of a Deva or Devata from one of Jayavarman VII’s famed causeways - such as those at Angkor Thom and Preah Khan.
On the far side of the outer causeway, the exterior gopura (entranceway) features three doorways, each of which is crowned by a lotus-shaped tower; these entrances were likely reserved for the king and high priests. However, as the temple grounds are believed to have originally been occupied by a sizable population, the “public” entrances would have been those farther to the north and south of this outermost gopura.
While the central doorway is typically open to the public, it is best to enter the temple through the southernmost of the three central doorways (on your right). As you climb the stairs to this gopura, note the bullet holes in the pillar outside the doorway. The damage was done by General Lon Nol’s troops during the civil war with the Khmer Rouge. Entering this doorway will lead you to the kuk-ta-reach, the Sanctuary of the Royal Ancestor.
Kuk Ta Reach
Known as the Sanctuary of the Royal Ancestor. Entering the southernmost doorway you will immediately be confronted by a towering eight-armed statue of Vishnu. The statue, which some believe to be the sacred Vishnu image that was once housed in Angkor Wat’s central sanctuary, the bakan, is thought by contemporary Cambodians to embody Ta Reach, a powerful royal spirit. If you happen to be visiting Angkor Wat in January or February, inquire about the date of the full moon Leang Ta Reach ceremony, during which shaman honor Ta Reach with music, chanting, and dance.
Interior Courtyard
This includes the Causeway, Libraries, and Reflecting Pools. After passing through the exterior gopura, you will see the towers of Angkor Wat’s central sanctuary rising up at the end of the interior causeway; however, if you turn back towards the interior wall of the exterior gopura you will see the first of nearly 2,000 ‘apsaras’ that grace the walls of Angkor Wat (One smiling (link to image) with exposed teeth is immediately around the corner to your right). These celestial dancers, who were created during the churning-of-sea-of-milk that is depicted on the Southeast Gallery wall, appear in groups throughout the temple and wear a variety of clothing, jewelry, and hairstyles.
As you walk along the 1,150 foot (350 m) long interior causeway that is flanked by naga balustrades you will pass six sets of stairways leading to the north and south. As the temple grounds likely served as the capital city these stairs would have served as “roads” that connected the ‘city’ with the temple grounds. Once inhabited by thousands, there were likely numerous wooden structures within the temple grounds, including perhaps, Suryavarman’s royal palace.
As you walk along the causeway, a pair of large sandstone ‘libraries’ are situated on either side of the fourth pair of stairs. The libraries are excellent places to watch the sun rise behind Angkor Wat, though offer little of interest otherwise. Just north of the northern library is one of the two active Buddhist monasteries within the temple grounds.
Between the libraries and the temple proper is a pair of reflecting pools. In the rainy season, both are full of water; the northern-pool (link to image), which retains some water throughout most of the year, is the most popular place to take photos of the temple.
Walking back to the terminus of the interior causeway, ascend the stairs to the cruciform terrace upon which apsara dances were once believed to have been performed. Continuing up the stairs, the next gopura leads into the main area of the temple. To the left and right of this gopura are doors leading to the galleries-of-bas-relief-murals. From here, you may either turn right, to follow the galleries that surround the temple, or continue onwards towards the center of the temple and return to the galleries later.
Cruciform Cloister
This Includes Preah Poan (Hall of 1,000 Buddhas), Hall of Echoes, and the Bakan. Climbing the stairs towards the central sanctuary, enter the “cruciform cloister,” a cross-shaped, open-air chamber that features four empty pools framed by corridors covered by corbel roofs (false arches). There are numerous apsaras gracing the walls around the pools and there are a number of Buddha images in the southern axis of the cross. This is the Preah Poan (“Hall of 1,000 Buddhas”).
The Hall of Buddhas dates from the Middle Period, when the temple was converted to a Buddhist Monastary. Note the inscriptions on the columns; they were carved by pilgrims between the 16th and 18th centuries. It is unknown if there were actually once 1,000 Buddha images here, as most were removed or destroyed during the civil war in the 20th century. The Buddha images present today are those that survived or have been installed since that time.
Directly opposite the Hall of Buddhas is the “Hall of Echoes”. The “hall” is really just the doorway chamber that leads out to an inner enclosure where a pair of large ‘libraries’ is located. If you stand with your back to the wall within the chamber and thump your fist against your chest you can create an interesting echo. Simply stand near the gopura to observe temple guides showing other visitors how to create the effect.
Continuing along the west-east axis from the causeway directly into the temple, you will ascend another series of stairs that connects to a dark gallery leading north and south. Though there is a doorway that leads directly into the next enclosure, this gopura may still be closed for renovations (as of 2011) and you must then follow directional signs for access to an open doorway to the innermost enclosure.
Entering the innermost enclosure, the five towers of the Bakan, Angkor Wat’s central sanctuary, rise precipitously before you. Nearly the entire exterior of the Bakan, which represents the peaks of Mt. Meru, is covered in ornate bas-relief decoration. As you stroll around the Bakan, note the apsara carvings on the interior walls of the enclosure and the finely carved lintels above the doorways of both the enclosure and the towers of the Bakan.
The centermost tower of the Bakan, within which a statue of Vishnu once stood, rises 180 feet above ground level and there are indications that the tower was once gilded or covered in paint. While the Bakan was once only accessible to high priests and the king, it has been reopened to the public following several years of reconstruction. Access is via the southern stairway, a vertigo-inducing 70-degree climb. The western stairs, once the primary access to the Bakan, are set at a mere 50 degrees; these stairs, like the others, are intentionally narrow so that it would not be possible to turn ones back on the temple while descending.
Entry to the uppermost chambers of the Bakan are limited to small groups of visitors for a limited amount of time. If you do not wish to wait long, and would enjoy exploring the uppermost chambers for more than the allotted time it is best to visit Angkor Wat at off-peak hours, particularly lunch-time and near sunset. Appropriate attire is required, including shirts and pants/skirts that cover the shoulders and knees. While the Bakan is typically closed by 5pm, those arriving late may be able to convince the guards to allow you access in order to experience a private tour of the upper chambers and catch a glimpse of the setting sun to the west of the temple.
Within the central shrine of the Bakan, the four ancillary towers are connected by a square gallery; the central tower is connected to these galleries by covered hallways that are flanked by basins that may have once been filled with water, thus representing the oceans surrounding Mt. Meru (in similar design to the cruciform cloister one level below). While the central sanctuary once housed an image of Vishnu, after the temple’s conversion to Buddhism, the image was removed and the sanctuary was altered so that there are now four smaller shrines housing Buddha images that are oriented outwards in each of the cardinal directions.
Directly beneath the central sanctuary, archaeologists discovered a 23-meter deep pit, within which a sarcophagus and a seated Buddha image were found. While the sarcophagus was found to be empty, its discovery supported those who believed Angkor Wat to have been a mausoleum to Suryavarman II. The small Buddha was installed in the gallery to the east of the Bakan, which is accessible via a short detour to the rear of the inner enclosure.
When to Go
Popularly visited at sunrise, the sun cannot actually be seen rising until nearly 8 or 9 am; rather, the spires appearing out of the darkness at dawn’s first light are the major attraction. However, because much of Angkor Wat is within enclosed galleries, Angkor Wat can be appreciated any time of day. Like most temples in Angkor Archaeological Park, Angkor Wat is best visited at the end of the rainy season, between November and January, when the reflecting pools are full and the surrounding vegetation is lush and green.
Need to Know
- What is it: The elaborately adorned state temple of Suryavarman II and the largest religious structure in the world.
- Nearest Town: Siem Reap
- Don’t Miss:
- The temple at dawn’s first light.
- Kuk Ta Reach Vishnu Statue
- The Variety of Apsara Carvings
- Bas-relief galleries
- View from atop the Bakan
- King: Suryavarman II
- Date: early 12th century
- Religion: Hindu/Vishnuism
- Artistic Style: Angkor Wat Style