Angkor Archaeological Park

• Angkor Thom: The vast, walled capital of the Khmer Empire, featuring the iconic Bayon Temple with its many stone-carved faces.
• Angkor Wat: The world’s largest religious monument, known for its stunning architecture, intricate bas-reliefs, and awe-inspiring sunrise views.
• Preah Rup: A majestic temple-mountain with pyramid-like tiers, offering beautiful sunset views over the surrounding jungle.
• Ta Prohm: The famous “Tomb Raider” temple, where massive trees and roots intertwine with ancient stone ruins, creating a mystical atmosphere.
• Phnom Bakheng: A popular hilltop temple, best known for its panoramic views of Angkor Wat and the surrounding area, especially at sunset.
• Preah Khan: A sprawling temple complex known for its labyrinth-like layout, sacred halls, and the jungle creeping into its courtyards.
• Neak Pean: A unique water temple set on an artificial island, featuring a central tower surrounded by a series of sacred ponds.
• Ta Nei: A quiet, secluded temple nestled in the jungle, offering an off-the-beaten-path experience with minimal crowds and unrestored ruins.
• Ta Som: A smaller, peaceful temple featuring an iconic entrance gate overgrown by a large strangler fig tree, similar to Ta Prohm but less crowded.
• Baksei Chamkrong: A compact, pyramid-like temple with steep stairs, offering an impressive example of early Khmer architecture.
• Banteay Kdei: A spacious monastic complex featuring beautiful courtyards and corridors, though in a more ruinous state compared to others.
• Prasat Kravan: A unique brick temple known for its well-preserved interior carvings of Vishnu and Lakshmi, a smaller but interesting site.
• Rolous Group: One of the earliest Angkorian sites, showcasing the beginnings of Khmer temple architecture with temples like Preah Ko and Bakong.
• Srah Srang: A serene reservoir known as the “Royal Bath,” popular for peaceful sunrise reflections over its still waters.
• Ta Keo: An imposing, unfinished temple-mountain with steep staircases, offering challenging climbs and stunning views from the top.
• Thommanon: A small but elegant temple with beautifully preserved carvings, dedicated to Shiva and Vishnu, often visited alongside Chau Say Tevoda.
• Banteay Samre: A well-restored temple featuring intricate carvings and a peaceful, less crowded atmosphere, surrounded by lush countryside.
• Banteay Thom: A lesser-known temple in a ruined state, offering a secluded experience far from the main tourist path.
• Chau Say Tevoda: A small temple located near Angkor Thom, known for its harmonious layout and recently restored sandstone carvings.
• East Baray: A vast, ancient reservoir, now dry but historically significant as part of Angkor’s sophisticated water management system.
• Ta Prohm Kel: A small, lesser-visited ruin near Angkor Wat, originally built as a hospital chapel with simple but historical charm.
• West Baray: The largest of Angkor’s reservoirs, still filled with water, offering peaceful boat rides and views of an island temple.
• Prasat Bei: A modest, small temple with three towers, offering a quiet spot for those seeking to explore lesser-visited Angkorian ruins.
• Spean Thmor: An ancient Khmer stone bridge near Angkor Thom, showcasing the ingenuity of Khmer engineering and a peaceful historical site.

The peak season from November to February offers the “best” weather for touring Angkor if you wish to avoid the rain; however, if you want to escape the inevitable crowds, consider coming in the shoulder seasons. Be warned of the ferocious heat and dusty countryside from March to May and the heavy rains from June to October; that said, exploring the temples during the monsoon season can be a pleasure, as the countryside is lush and green, the moats and reflecting pools at the temples are full of water, and there are far fewer other visitors.

There are many temples and, depending on the length of your visit, you can make your own itinerary, but here are a few of our favorites.

• Angkor Wat: The most grand and well preserved of all the temples of Angkor. Because it is the only state-temple facing westward, some have suggested it was built as a funerary temple, symbolically aligned with the setting sun. The temple was designed to represent a microcosm of the Hindu universe, with mystical Mount Meru, home of the gods, at the center. The five towers of the central sanctuary symbolize the peaks of Meru and the surrounding enclosure walls and moat represent the continents and oceans that surround and denote the edge of this godly universe. Before you cross the Causeway and enter the site you should take a little detour about 75 meters to the left and climb down the stairs a little a bit. At this point, you can see all five temples in their glory.

• Bayon: The Bayon hid in its jungle cover for quite some time and it was not known until recently that this was, in fact, the center of the ancient royal city of Angkor Thom. The Bayon has over 200 Giant faces on 54 towers and you somehow feel that one always has its eyes on you. There are three levels to the complex with some Buddha shrines and an ancient well on the inside. The outer wall has well preserved stone etchings that depict the battle and success of King Jayavarman VII and his loyal following. It is a favorite of many and should not be missed on a visit to the temples. Just before the Bayon, coming from the direction of Angkor Wat, there is a herd of monkeys that hangs out in the grassy area during the morning and late afternoon.

• Ta Prohm: This is the best place in the Angkor site to observe the ancient battle of the Trees vs. the Rock. Ta Prohm has been left virtually untouched by archaeologists except for the clearing of a path for visitors and some structural supports. If you are into photography, the best time to shoot this place is at high noon. Ta Prohm seems to be, by far, the favorite temple among backpackers. It is quite easy here to climb into your own quiet area and get lost in the beauty and grandeur of nature reclaiming the land where an ancient civilization has left its mark.

• Bakheng: (Phnom) Bakheng is one of the favorite spots of many visitors to sit and enjoy the serenity of the setting sun on this ancient kingdom. From the top you set eye upon Angkor Wat in the distance as well as the surrounding jungle enclosed temples. As the sunlight bounces off the beautiful lake and a group of monks breaks into song, the heavens and the earth become one for an instant and there is nothing more that can be said. The temple itself is an example of advanced Khmer building techniques, built from cut rock and then faced with sandstone. Many of the 109 original towers are missing, but with the remnants it is clear that this was a replica of Mount Meru. The five tiers plus the ground level and the upper terrace correspond to the seven heavens of Hindu mythology. There were 12 towers on each of the five tiers representing the twelve-year cycle of the animal zodiac. The 108 towers, with the exclusion of the central sanctuary, also represent the four lunar phases with 27 days in each phase.

• Banteay Srei: This temple has been dubbed by some as the fairy palace or the jewel of Angkor. It is tiny in size, but the attention to detail in the sandalwood carvings on the hard pink sandstone is unsurpassed in any of the other temples. This temple is quite a distance out of the way from the other temples and if it has been raining, it can take quite long to reach. The ride through the countryside on the way there is just as much of a treat as the actual temple itself and it is well worth the journey. This temple is a lot further out, perhaps about 40 km from the main gate and if you’ve hired a moto for the day, he may double his price to take you there. All the same, we think it’s quite worth it.

The Little Circuit

The Little Circuit is a popular route within the Angkor Archaeological Park, designed to take visitors to some of the most iconic and accessible temples in the area. The circuit is approximately 17 kilometers long and is ideal for those who have limited time but want to experience the highlights of Angkor.

The Little Circuit typically takes around half a day to complete and is ideal for those who want to explore the park’s main highlights without venturing too far. It’s popular with first-time visitors and can be explored by tuk-tuk, bike, or on foot. The route provides a mix of grand temples and more intimate, jungle-clad ruins, giving visitors a well-rounded introduction to Angkor’s history and beauty.

• Angkor Wat: The most famous and largest temple complex in the park, renowned for its grandeur and detailed bas-reliefs.
• Bayon (in Angkor Thom): Known for its smiling stone faces, this temple is one of the most iconic structures in Angkor Thom.
• Ta Prohm: Famous for its massive tree roots growing over the temple ruins, Ta Prohm offers a picturesque and mysterious atmosphere.
• Banteay Kdei: A smaller, less crowded temple that features intricate carvings and a peaceful setting.
• Srah Srang: Often called the “Royal Bath,” this large reservoir is a tranquil spot to enjoy a sunrise or sunset.
• Prasat Kravan: A small brick temple known for its intricate carvings of Vishnu inside the towers.

The Grand Circuit

The Grand Circuit is a longer route within the park, designed for visitors who want to explore a broader range of temples beyond the main highlights. Covering approximately 26 kilometers, the Grand Circuit takes in some of the more remote and less visited temples, offering a deeper dive into the historical and architectural wonders of Angkor.

The Grand Circuit typically takes a full day to explore and is ideal for those with more time or a deeper interest in Angkor’s architecture and history. The temples on this circuit are often less crowded, allowing for a more peaceful and immersive experience. This route offers a greater diversity of temple styles and settings, from the serene waters of Neak Pean to the imposing heights of Pre Rup, making it a perfect complement to the Little Circuit.

• Preah Khan: A vast temple complex dedicated to King Jayavarman VII’s father, featuring intricate carvings and a labyrinthine layout, with tree roots similar to those at Ta Prohm.
• Neak Pean: A small, serene temple situated on an artificial island in the middle of a man-made reservoir, designed as a symbol of balance and healing.
• Ta Som: A charming, smaller temple overgrown with trees, particularly noted for its iconic entrance tower wrapped in roots.
• East Mebon: A large temple mountain originally located on an artificial island, featuring impressive elephant statues and excellent views of the surrounding area.
• Pre Rup: A grand temple mountain with steep steps leading to panoramic views, often visited at sunset for its beautiful light and landscape.
• Banteay Prei: A smaller, less visited temple that offers a peaceful atmosphere and well-preserved carvings.
• Krol Ko: A small temple complex near Neak Pean, featuring intricate carvings and a tranquil, forested setting.

The Angkor Archaeological Park is located just outside Siem Reap, Cambodia. Tour buses, private taxis, and tuk-tuks ferry tourists from Siem Reap to Angkor throughout the day although many tourists rent bicycles for the four-mile journey to the park.

Angkor International Airport lies juts outside Siem Reap and receives flights from all over Asia, including Thailand, China, South Korea, Taiwan, Laos, Vietnam, and Malaysia, as well as from Phnom Penh.

The main entrance to the park is near the ticket office, located about 4 kilometers from Siem Reap town. All visitors are required to purchase a ticket before entering the park. From the entrance, you can begin your exploration of the Little or Grand Circuits. Most visitors stay in Siem Reap and travel to the park each day using one of the following methods:

• Tuk-Tuk: The most popular way to travel to and around Angkor is by tuk-tuk. Drivers can be hired for the day and will take you to all the main temples. Expect to pay around $15-25 USD per day, depending on the distance covered.
• Bicycle: For the more adventurous, renting a bicycle is a great way to explore the park at your own pace. Rental shops are abundant in Siem Reap, and the ride to the park entrance is fairly straightforward. Costs range from $2-5 USD per day.
• Motorbike or Scooter: Motorbikes and scooters can be rented in Siem Reap (though tourists are not allowed to rent them directly within the park itself). It’s a good option for those who want more freedom and mobility.
• Car: Private cars with drivers can be arranged through most hotels or travel agencies in Siem Reap. This option provides comfort and air conditioning, and prices range from $30-50 USD per day.
• Electric Bicycles (E-bikes): Available for rent in Siem Reap, e-bikes provide an eco-friendly and convenient way to explore the park, allowing you to travel further than a traditional bicycle.

Tickets and Access

Tickets can be purchased at the main Angkor Park ticket office. Prices are:

• 1-day pass: $37 USD
• 3-day pass: $62 USD (valid for 10 days)
• 7-day pass: $72 USD (valid for 1 month)

The park is open from 5:00 AM to 6:00 PM, allowing visitors to explore the temples and experience sunrise and sunset views.

Scholars are in general agreement over the year 802 c.e. as beginning of the Angkor period; although there are temples in the area from an early date, this marks the coronation date of Jayavarman II. The man “Protected by Victory” made the area around Siem Reap the center of his kingdom, principally at Mount Mahendrapura (modern day Phnom Kulen), 40 kilometers northeast of Siem Reap, and later in life at Hariharalaya, 15 kilometers east of Siem Reap, where the temples of Roluos were built by his successors.

As the first king of of “Angkor,” King Jayavarman II claimed himself universal ruler, an event that occurred simultaneous with the establishment of the mysterious cult of devaraja. While there is still scholarly debate as to the meaning of the term, the new religious practice literally changed the face of Cambodia as generations of Cambodians built temples dedicated to ancestral spirits and Hindu gods, including the pyramidal temple-mountains that housed the stone vehicles of ultimate power: typically phallic lingha within which the spirits of the King and his patron god resided.

While Jayavarman II was the founder of the Angkor-era, he was not the first to construct a temple-mountain or support lingha-worship (both of which were already Cambodian religious traditions); however, his cult of devaraja created a direct association between the gods and the king, allowing Indravarman II to wield the power necessary to establish traditions that would be followed by numerous subsequent rulers, nearly all of whom also ascribed to the cult of devaraja.

As king, Indravarman II first commissioned a temple (Preah Ko) built to honor the spirits of his ancestors (including Jayavarman II), then commanded a massive artificial lake be built (the Indratataka Baray), and finally had his state temple (Bakong) constructed to house the Shiva-linga of his devaraja.

Thereafter, each new king would build an ancestral temple, a public water-works, and a state-temple to honor their devaraja; provided they were able to claim the throne and rule for long enough to complete such massive projects. The first of such kings, Yasovarman I (successor to Indravarman II), relocated the capital to the heart of the Angkor Archaelogical Park when he enshrined his Shiva-linga atop Phnom Bakheng after building the ancestral temple Lolei at Roluos and intiating the excavation of the East Baray. While only reigning from 889 to 900 c.e, the city he founded, Yasodharapura would remain the capital of the Angkor-era for roughly 500 years, an accomplishment perhaps only matched by Suryavarman I, whose West Baray still retains water, Suryavarman II, who dedicated Angkor Wat to Vishnu, and Jayavarman VII, whose city of Angkor Thom was built in honor of the Buddha, and whose reign may have marked the beginning of the end for the cult of devaraja.

While many have declared Jayavarman VII the last great king of Angkor and cite the lack of substantial temple building from the kings who followed as evidence of a society in decline, there has been evidence depicting a thriving society for some time after the death of this Jayavarman in the late 12th century. In fact, roughly 100 years later, during the reign of the first Theravada Buddhist king, Indravarman III, a delegation of Chinese visited Angkor and painted a very different picture. One of the emissaries, Zhao Daguan (Chou Ta Kuan), stayed at Angkor for around one year and wrote comprehensively about his experience. From the surviving portions of his tale Memoirs on the Customs of Cambodia, we have learned a great deal about life at Angkor.

Thus it is uncertain exactly what precipitated the decline of Angkor. Books and television documentaries have discussed irrigation challenges and the growing popularity of Therevada Buddhism as factors eroding the power and authority of Khmer kings, and the latter could explain the lack of new sandstone temples, as Buddhist temples are generally constructed of perishable materials. However, it is more likely that a combination of factors, including intensified military conflict that caused Angkor’s decline.

For centuries, kings of Angkor utilized their position along the trading route between China and India to attain the wealth necessary for such grandiose religious practices, supplementing this trade with the spoils of war with neighboring cultures; the Cham, a people who inhabited central Vietnam, were the historic rival of Angkor and may have even successfully sacked Angkor prior to the ascension of Jayavarman VII (an event disputed by many modern historians). However, it was the Thai who grew increasingly powerful, even forging an alliance with Kublai Khan in order to wage successful campaigns against Angkor. While the tides of battle went back and forth, the Thais eventually overran Angkor, first in 1353, and again in 1431/1432, when Angkor was abandoned by the Khmer and the capital of Cambodia was relocated to Phnom Penh (and later Longvek and Oudong).

After the abandonment of Angkor, the regions of Angkor/Siem Reap and Batdambang, which together covered nearly all of western Cambodia, were frequently annexed by Thailand, though the town of Siem Reap, meaning “Siamese Defeat” was named after a battle that occurred there in 1525. By the 16th century however, the Siamese (Thais) conquered the new capital of Longvek (near Phnom Penh) and Angkor was effectively given up to the jungle and a handful of Buddhist monks who may have maintained residence in Angkor Wat continuously through the centuries.

Although reports from other foreigners had mentioned the great ruins, including Spanish and Portuguese explorers and missionaries who visited Cambodia in the 16th(1550 or 1570), serious interest in the temples began after the visit French naturalist Henri Mouhot in 1860.

Through the winds of time, the ancient city has managed to stand up quite well. Contrary to press reports, the Khmer Rouge did very little damage to the monuments, although many of the Buddha statues were smuggled to Thailand and sold in Bangkok during the Khmer rule. UNESCO and some other NGOs have put a lot of time and money into the preservation and restoration of the temples, with good success. As of now, people are free to wander about inside the temples and touch the beautiful sandstone carvings but it will not be too long before there are ropes and boundaries put up around these historic treasures, allowing viewing from a distance only.

To realize how much importance Angkor Wat still retains in the Cambodian state, one need look no further than the symbols of modern day Cambodia: The outline of Angkor Wat is clearly embedded in the Cambodian national flag. Whenever former King Sihanouk returned from China after receiving medical attention, he would return to Siem Reap and Angkor Wat, a sign that the legitimacy of the monarchy still rested on this very landmark. Interestingly enough, even while the temple is one of the region’s most important tourist attractions, people actually live inside the complex as it continues to be an important place of religious worship and national pride.