Unless you look like a bearded mujahedin, Afghanistan is something of a no go area for all but the most ardent adventurers. Its terrain is rough and unforgiving, its weather is harsh and intense, and most of its infrastructure has been bombed into dust during decades of conflict, but when the dust settles, Afghanistan will be a travel experience unlike any other.
Once known for its warm welcome, generous hospitality and tasty cuisine, Afghanistan still has a lot of potential as a place for scenic mountain views, great trekking or more relaxed walks through rolling plains, verdant valleys and the fields of wild tulips that bloom in the spring. Still, you might want to wait a while until some of the landmines have been cleared before venturing out of Kabul.
Afghanistan is a landlocked country bordered by Pakistan, Iran, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and China. The country is dominated by the Hindu Kush mountain range, which runs through its center, while its northern and western regions are characterized by plains and deserts.
Hopefully the fieriest thing you’ll encounter in Afghanistan will be the food – it tends to be on the spicy side. The most common local dish is steamed rice with raisins and carrots (pulao), often served with lamb or another meat. Vegetarians therefore may have a few problems finding good alternatives. Otherwise, the cuisine has a lot in common with Indian food and is largely based on rice.
There are several modern restaurants in Kabul and the large number of foreign aid workers means that there is considerable demand for quality international cuisine as well as more traditional Afghan fare. Larger restaurants will likely have knives and forks however most people usually eat with their hand (strictly the right one) and use bread (nan) as a scoop.
You should be able to find a hotel in most towns in Afghanistan although some smaller places have been known to turn away foreigners due to the security risk they bring with them. In Kabul, there are private guesthouses and even five-star international hotels.
What’s Cool
Historical landmarks like the Buddhas of Bamiyan and Balkh, stunning natural landscapes such as the Hindu Kush mountains and Band-e Amir National Park, traditional music and dance, rich cuisine, trekking in the Wakhan Corridor, exploring remote valleys, warm hospitality, beautiful handcrafted goods.
What’s Not
Security concerns, political instability, limited tourist infrastructure, restricted access to certain areas, potential cultural misunderstandings, travel advisories, poor road conditions, language barriers, unpredictable weather.
Where to Go
Highlights
- Kabul: shop for jewelry and handicrafts on Chicken street, wander through the Gardens of Babur and take in a host of ruins in this once bustling capital.
- Band-e-Amir (Lake of Jewels): set amid a dusty mountain range, the high mineral content of these five lakes gives them their stunning, jewel-like color.
- Minaret of Jam: you can climb these remote and mysterious 12th century towers and look down on the valley floor from a height of over 200 feet, and ponder the mystery of their construction that still baffle archaeologists.
- Bamian: is the main center for travelers to the Hindu Kush mountain range and was once home to ancient Buddha statues which were destroyed in 2001.
- Red City (Shahr-i-Zahak): near Bamian in the Hindu Kush mountains, here you can explore the ruins of an ancient citadel and enjoy the stunning views of mountain lakes along the way.
- Panjshir Valley: this lush valley is home to the tomb of a former mujaheddin leader and has great hikes and beautiful views.
- Jalalabad: the capital of Nangarhar Province and a winter resort in calmer times. The scenery is full of cypress trees, flowering shrubs and an abundance of delicious oranges.
- Kandahar: indulge in locally grown grapes and pomegranates in the second-largest city in Afghanistan.
Top Cities
- kabul: The capital city, known for its historic gardens, bazaars, and cultural landmarks.
- herat: Famous for its stunning Persian-influenced architecture, including the Herat Citadel and Friday Mosque.
- mazar-i-sharif: Home to the iconic Blue Mosque and a major center for Afghan culture and history.
- kandahar: The birthplace of modern Afghanistan, known for its historic fortress and Ahmad Shah Durrani’s mausoleum.
- bamiyan: Renowned for the ancient Buddhas of Bamiyan and beautiful natural landscapes.
- jalalabad: Known for its lush greenery, historic sites, and proximity to the Khyber Pass.
- kunduz: A key northern city with a mix of historical significance and modern development.
- ghazni: Rich in history, with numerous ancient Buddhist and Islamic sites.
- fayzabad: A remote city known for its beautiful mountain scenery and as a gateway to the Wakhan Corridor.
- taloqan: A historical city with a significant role in Afghanistan’s ancient and modern history.
National Parks
- band-e-amir-national-park: Known for its stunning series of natural blue lakes surrounded by limestone cliffs.
- wakhan-national-park: Offers breathtaking mountain landscapes, wildlife, and opportunities for trekking.
- nuristan-national-park: Renowned for its dense forests, mountainous terrain, and rich biodiversity.
- ajar-valley-national-park: Features lush valleys, diverse flora and fauna, and opportunities for eco-tourism.
- kabul-national-park: Known for its scenic beauty and accessible recreational areas near the capital city.
World Heritage
- Minaret of Jam: An ancient and intricately decorated minaret located in a remote valley, dating back to the 12th century.
- Cultural Landscape and Archaeological Remains of the Bamiyan Valley: Known for the niches of the destroyed Buddhas and numerous Buddhist monastic complexes.
When to Go
Summers are often extremely hot and winters can be almost unbearably cold and snowy. Even within seasons, there are large differences in temperature between night and day, particularly in low-lying regions and in the valleys. March to May and September to November are the best times to visit, but if you are doing any traveling through the country, it’s best to pack for a variety of climates.
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Spring: (March to May) - Spring is one of the best times to visit Afghanistan. The weather is mild and pleasant, and the landscape comes alive with blooming flowers and green fields. It’s an excellent time for trekking, especially in the regions of Bamiyan and the Wakhan Corridor.
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Summer: (June to August) - Summer in Afghanistan can be very hot, especially in the lowland areas like Kandahar and Jalalabad. However, it’s a good time to visit the cooler highland areas, such as the Hindu Kush mountains and the Bamiyan region. This season is ideal for those looking to explore the mountainous and remote areas of the country.
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Fall: (September to November) - Fall is another great time to visit Afghanistan, with cooler temperatures and clear skies. The autumn foliage adds to the scenic beauty of the countryside. This season is perfect for visiting historical sites, exploring cities like Herat and Kabul, and trekking in the Wakhan Corridor.
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Winter: (December to February) - Winter can be harsh in Afghanistan, particularly in the mountainous regions where heavy snowfall is common. However, it’s a good time for those interested in winter sports, such as skiing in Bamiyan. The lowland areas, including cities like Kabul, experience milder winters, making it possible to visit historical and cultural sites.
Things to Do
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Trekking: several companies specialize in high security adventure tours that can take you high up in the mountains among the spectacular beauty of the Hindu Kush.
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Shopping: two main streets in Kabul are great for shopping: Chicken street and Flower street. Afghanistan has some of the finest lapis lazuli for sale in the world and is well known for handmade carpets. If you are prepared to bargain until your face turns blue, you can walk away with some excellent finds.
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Buzkashi: if you manage to catch one of these games in progress, it will be an experience to remember. The popular game sometimes involves hundreds of mounted men trying to dodge whips in order to bring the head of a calf to the goal line, sometimes up to a mile away.
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Fighting kites: in competitions, beautifully designed homemade kites with strings coated in glass try to cut each other down and be the last kite in the sky.
Cultural Experiences
- Visiting the Blue Mosque in Mazar-i-Sharif: An iconic and stunning example of Islamic architecture.
- Exploring the Herat Citadel: A historic fortress offering a glimpse into Afghanistan’s rich Persian-influenced past.
- Touring the National Museum of Afghanistan in Kabul: Home to a vast collection of artifacts showcasing the country’s history.
Natural Experiences
- Trekking in the Wakhan Corridor: Offering breathtaking mountain landscapes and opportunities to experience the traditional nomadic lifestyle.
- Exploring Band-e Amir National Park: Known for its series of natural blue lakes surrounded by limestone cliffs.
- Hiking in Nuristan National Park: Renowned for its dense forests, mountainous terrain, and rich biodiversity.
Urban Experiences
- Exploring the bustling bazaars of Kabul: Offering a vibrant mix of traditional crafts, foods, and local culture.
- Walking through the historic streets of Herat: Known for its beautiful architecture and historical significance.
- Visiting the ancient city of Balkh: One of the oldest cities in the world with a rich history dating back thousands of years.
Unique Experiences
- Seeing the Minaret of Jam: An intricately decorated minaret in a remote valley, a remarkable example of Islamic art and architecture.
- Exploring the Buddhas of Bamiyan: Visiting the niches where the giant Buddha statues once stood and the surrounding monastic caves.
- Experiencing a local festival: Participating in traditional celebrations such as Nawroz (Persian New Year) or the Mazar-i-Sharif Tulip Festival.
Getting There
Kabul Airport recently reopened for a limited number of international commercial flights. Most of the traffic at the airport however is generated by military and aid planes. The airport is only 10 miles from the city, although given the conditions of the roads; it will take you at least 30 minutes to make the trip.
Border crossings into Afghanistan are lax to say the least. You should be able to cross into the country almost anywhere at anytime. That being said, the borders do close at often unpredictable times and almost always for lunch on Fridays.
Afghanistan has two internal airlines, although neither is known for being particularly safe. Ariana Afghan Airlines and KamAir have dubious safety records, at best, but at least traveling by plane reduces the risk of hitting a landmine on the long ride from Kabul to Herat.
Eighty per cent of all roads and bridges have been destroyed in the conflict; nevertheless, minibuses and shared taxis still make inter-city trips across the country.
Health & Safety
Traveling in Afghanistan requires careful planning and consideration of current safety conditions. Always stay updated on travel advisories, and consider traveling with a reputable guide or tour operator. Respect local customs and traditions, and dress modestly to honor the cultural norms.
Hospitals and clinics were widely destroyed in the recent conflict and supplies of medical equipment, as a whole, are pretty thin. If you do need medical attention and manage to find it, most doctors will probably require immediate payment in cash.
If you do intend to travel in Afghanistan, unexploded ordinances and landmines are the biggest threats throughout the country. If possible, seek local advice on the area and conditions before planning your journey.
At the time of writing, many international organizations and governments advise against all but essential travel in Kabul and entirely against travel outside the capital. On the plus side, this is probably one of the few times you can justify renting an armored car at the airport. The threat to Westerners against bombs, kidnapping and other criminal activity is high and is likely to remain so for some time. As attacks against United Nations staff and other aid workers have occurred, it is recommended that foreigners keep a low profile while in Afghanistan. That means you’ll have to save the table-top dancing until when you get home.
Itineraries
- Two days in kabul
- Two days in bamian and shahr-i-zahak
- One day to travel and see the minaret-of-jam
- One day at band-e-amir